stabilizers for Rockwood/Flagstaff A Frames

[bobrapp]

I will be taking delivery of a new Flagstaff T12RB soon. My previous camper was the 176ED (great little camper). The only real potential issue are the scissor style stabilizers and how far they hang down. BAL and Camco make cross-frame lowering arm type stabilizers that will retract much closer to the frame when risen.

Does anyone have any comments one way or the other about the two systems.here is a link to the BAL stabilizer:
BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

Thanks for looking

[1A Camper]

"The only real potential issue are the scissor style stabilizers and how far they hang down."

I have dragged the rear bumper and did not have a problem with the scissor style stabilizers not being high enough that came with the trailer.

Welcome to the board

[bobrapp]

Thanks for your input. I hope to take my camper off road and the stabilizers are a concern.

Bob

[rawlus]

for offroad use, i would think entry and departure angle is of greater concern than stabilizers. also consider than the water tank hangs somewhat below the framerails as is not protected with a skidplate. the A frame is a low-clearance vehicle i would sayis not ideal for offroad travel, but i guess that depends upon what definition you are using for off road. a gravel road or a jeep trail. this camper is not built for a jeep trail IMHO and there are better solutions out there for that type of driving.

i say this as someone who both owns an A122 and a fully customized offroad jeep.

[thehamguy1]

Getting on and off the ferries in the Northwest Territories was a real test of the ground clearance on my A frame. Some ramps were pitched down so far that the hitch would almost drag coming off them; others had a sharp hump in the middle that was scary to go over. In none of those situations did the stabilizers drag. They can be screwed up tight to the frame so that they don't stick down more than a couple of inches. They're also placed far enough ahead of the rear bumper and behind the front frame end that they're less of a worry than if they were right at the corners of the frame.

[Pooneil]

My previous camper had the Bal stabilizers. They worked very well.

Like others, I have had no problem with the stock scissor stabilizers while going over rough or bumpy dirt roads. But I have not towed in truly off road situations.

[bobrapp]

I do appreciate everyone replies. I was spoiled by the 176ED (Flagstaff has brought it back as a model 176) and it's ground clearance. I will wait until I get mine and then evaluate changing stabilizers. As on my 176ED, I did appreciate the "stab jack" type stabilizers.

Bob

[68Triumph]

You mentioned off road. I bent a stabilizer on a fishing trip. I have purchased 15" tires and rims. I also have pics of an in-house lift solution. The pics are from a dealer that sells off road versions of these campers. It requires welding and fabrication, but looks solid. PM me with your email address, and I'll send pics.

[D-mo]

just post them .. im sure others would be more than interested .

d-mo

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by D-mo

just post them .. im sure others would be more than interested .

d-mo

I would like to see that myself, always looking for ideas never know what you might pick up.

[68Triumph]

This is not a DIY backyard modification. Please consult a qualified welder/fabricator before making any changes to your camper.

[OldCoot]

Looks like the trailer might be overloaded due to the spindle arm being sloped up instead of level or slightly down.

[rawlus]

Looks pretty straightforward.... If it were me I think I might try and do something with a bit more fit and finish, perhaps even a bracket/bracing along the axle tube to strengthen and compensate for lateral, side to side forces.

This looks sort of like a lift made from available scrap box tube and plate steel, a fabricator with the right equipment and materials could likely come up with a better design welded up as a single unit (rather than stacking and welding box tubing), something more like what you would see in custom suspension lift components for a jeep. As mentioned above, I would like to see a brace between the bottom of the stack and the horizontal of the axle tube if the overall lift is going to be a more than 3" or so.

What is the overall height of the lift represented in the images? Is that a 2x3 tube on top of a 2x4 tube? 7"? Or does it merely look really tall?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by rawlus

Looks pretty straightforward.... If it were me I think I might try and do something with a bit more fit and finish, perhaps even a bracket/bracing along the axle tube to strengthen and compensate for lateral, side to side forces.

This looks sort of like a lift made from available scrap box tube and plate steel, a fabricator with the right equipment and materials could likely come up with a better design welded up as a single unit (rather than stacking and welding box tubing), something more like what you would see in custom suspension lift components for a jeep. As mentioned above, I would like to see a brace between the bottom of the stack and the horizontal of the axle tube if the overall lift is going to be a more than 3" or so.

What is the overall height of the lift represented in the images? Is that a 2x3 tube on top of a 2x4 tube? 7"? Or does it merely look really tall?

At a bare minimum the ends of the tubing should be closed with a plate welded to the tubing. Don't see why a gusset couldn't be added from the rear of the tubing up to the frame cross tube for lateral stability.

[bobrapp]

My Dealer (Roberts Sales in Denver) does do lifts from 2 to 4" and, if I desire to go that path, they will do it.

I have taken delivery of the T12RB and have been scratching my head ever since. I figured that the stabilizers would be BAL but they are no-name and of Chinese origin. The threads are rough and will hang up in some spots. If you crank them up - I mean really crank them up with force - they still hang down 4".

We are taking our maiden voyage next week and see how they work out and if I can find some love in them. If they still bother me, I will probably order a pair of BAL Stabilizer sets (22630) and install them.

I really liked the BAL stab-jack stabilizers on my old 176ED

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by bobrapp

My Dealer (Roberts Sales in Denver) does do lifts from 2 to 4" and, if I desire to go that path, they will do it.

I have taken delivery of the T12RB and have been scratching my head ever since. I figured that the stabilizers would be BAL but they are no-name and of Chinese origin. The threads are rough and will hang up in some spots. If you crank them up - I mean really crank them up with force - they still hang down 4".

We are taking our maiden voyage next week and see how they work out and if I can find some love in them. If they still bother me, I will probably order a pair of BAL Stabilizer sets (22630) and install them.

I really liked the BAL stab-jack stabilizers on my old 176ED

Are your stabilizers now above the axle? The axle height will still be the low point. If I have read this correctly. looks like you would only raise the wheel well with that set up. Or is this one of my stupid moments, I have them all the time. You can tell me it's okay....

[handbuilder]

When we bought our A-Frame in 2012, we were told by FR not able to flip, not enough clearance with the wheel well. Jacking up the trailer body doesn't give enough clearance on the underbody. We bought the toyhauler which is on a different heavier frame than the other models. DH said it's height is more than adequate for our travels off the beaten path. These trailers twist and torque far too easily given their unique folding design. Maybe the newer year units have different frames than our 2012 allowing an actual flip. We called the manufacturer before we purchased ours. I even asked theyd build my A Frame (special order) on a different frame with more clearance and they said no . Never hurts to ask. LOL

[OldCoot]

Looking at the double stacked risers again, at the least, a couple of straps welded from the bottom of one side to the top of the other and make an "X" to stop the lateral loads would be an easy add on and greatly help.