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Old 09-18-2015, 01:59 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
You winterize through the water pump inlet; no extra opening or fitting required. , I pull the inlet line from the water pump, add a short piece of hose from the pump to a bottle of anti-freeze and let the pump suck it through, into the water heater, then out of the faucets and drains; then drain the water tank. I bet it is the same idea with those A-frames with no bathrooms.

This guy will drop out and never try and add any useful information again to any A-frame forum!
F5moab
My comment about information provided by big trailer owners was not aimed at you. It was to the person who said the clear hose was probably there to introduce antifreeze into the water system. As you correctly pointed out, neither PUPs not A-frames have such a fitting unless installed by an owner.

When my dealer winterized my A-frame prior to delivery, the anti-freeze mix went into the tank, and then was pumped through the water system (heater bypassed). Similar to what Roberts recommends, but does not involve disconnecting/connecting hoses to water pump, and at the cost of getting the antifreeze out of the water tank in the spring (tank drain and flushing repeatedly).

As you already know, the major system differences are the simplifications made by manufacturers for PUPs and A-frames:

1) fridges (except newer high wall versions) are continuous run 3-way fridges. There is no thermostatic control, no DC control board, and no auto-light of the propane mode. DC mode current is reasonable (5-6 amps) while towing due to small size of fridge and DC element.

2) 12V DC - no cutoff switch for the battery (often installed by owners to save manually disconnecting battery during storage). There are both fuses at the converter front panel and in-line fuses in the 12V DC system wiring.

3) the typical stereo (where installed) is an automotive unit that usually uses the FADER control to switch between outside and inside speakers. The BALANCE switches between front and back interior speakers.

4) water system has no dedicated method to introduce anti-freeze, and may or may not have low point drains (Forest River usually puts low point drains of some kind in, and usually puts in the heater bypass/winterization valves).

5) side panels and roof are usually plywood or foam-core construction with metal or fiberglass or plasitc skins. EPDM and rubber roofs do not exist.

6) unless the unit has built-in interior toilet/shower, there are no gray or black water tanks.

I enjoy your comments and suggestions, and value your knowledge. Please don't stop contributing based on anything I have said.

Fred W
2014 A122, 2000 Coleman Westlake PUP, 1986 Coachmen PUP
2008 Hyundai Entourage (minivan), 1993 Ford Explorer
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:37 AM   #42
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I have the filter and still got threw... But in ten years of various trailers and a pop up first and only time. Gave me something to do on my day off.

EDIT: I have the strainer, might be different than what you are saying?
That is better terminology it is a strainer with a collector bowl, which reminds me I have to pull mine out and see how much sand is in it.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:58 AM   #43
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Installed the new water pump and it works fine now. Strange how the OEM one which was never really used just seemed to die though the motor ran, diaphragm was clean, filter clean, it had no suction. New one gives nice flow, quiet.
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #44
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Installed the Still, if new water pump and it works fine now. Strange how the OEM one which was never really used just seemed to die though the motor ran, diaphragm was clean, filter clean, it had no suction. New one gives nice flow, quiet.
Good news.

Still, if the motor in the old one is running full bore, probably worth getting the pump rebuild kit and building it back, as a spare.
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:12 PM   #45
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I will be storing the old one for sure. Next is to pull the anode rod and replace. Ordered two from Amazon with a tool to remove it, magnesium type said to be the better choice. Leaving for week of camping at Lake Wateree in Winnsboro, SC 10/11, then to Wytheville VA overnight, then to camp in driveway at family home on Lake Erie for another week. I'm sure it will be chilly somewhere up there, so trying to get my ducks in a row this month.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:30 PM   #46
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New water pump is finally in and working fine. Flushed water heater, new anode rod and LED's added for ceiling lights. Now I can actually think about packing for my trip in two weeks Florida to Ohio woohoo!
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:31 PM   #47
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Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:52 PM   #48
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Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.
I would start by looking under any bench type seating (pull any panels the cushions rest on)then under the sink behind any panels located there.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:56 PM   #49
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Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.
I would've posted your question in the Shockwave sub-forum. This is the A-frame trailer section.
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:04 PM   #50
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Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.
If you turn on the pump and open a faucet inside some where, just enough for a strong trickle, you'll hear the pump thump away and find it easily. Secure outside hose if connected.
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