Water pump not working?

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by f5moab

You winterize through the water pump inlet; no extra opening or fitting required. , I pull the inlet line from the water pump, add a short piece of hose from the pump to a bottle of anti-freeze and let the pump suck it through, into the water heater, then out of the faucets and drains; then drain the water tank. I bet it is the same idea with those A-frames with no bathrooms.

This guy will drop out and never try and add any useful information again to any A-frame forum!

F5moab
My comment about information provided by big trailer owners was not aimed at you. It was to the person who said the clear hose was probably there to introduce antifreeze into the water system. As you correctly pointed out, neither PUPs not A-frames have such a fitting unless installed by an owner.

When my dealer winterized my A-frame prior to delivery, the anti-freeze mix went into the tank, and then was pumped through the water system (heater bypassed). Similar to what Roberts recommends, but does not involve disconnecting/connecting hoses to water pump, and at the cost of getting the antifreeze out of the water tank in the spring (tank drain and flushing repeatedly).

As you already know, the major system differences are the simplifications made by manufacturers for PUPs and A-frames:

1) fridges (except newer high wall versions) are continuous run 3-way fridges. There is no thermostatic control, no DC control board, and no auto-light of the propane mode. DC mode current is reasonable (5-6 amps) while towing due to small size of fridge and DC element.

2) 12V DC - no cutoff switch for the battery (often installed by owners to save manually disconnecting battery during storage). There are both fuses at the converter front panel and in-line fuses in the 12V DC system wiring.

3) the typical stereo (where installed) is an automotive unit that usually uses the FADER control to switch between outside and inside speakers. The BALANCE switches between front and back interior speakers.

4) water system has no dedicated method to introduce anti-freeze, and may or may not have low point drains (Forest River usually puts low point drains of some kind in, and usually puts in the heater bypass/winterization valves).

5) side panels and roof are usually plywood or foam-core construction with metal or fiberglass or plasitc skins. EPDM and rubber roofs do not exist.

6) unless the unit has built-in interior toilet/shower, there are no gray or black water tanks.

I enjoy your comments and suggestions, and value your knowledge. Please don't stop contributing based on anything I have said.

Fred W
2014 A122, 2000 Coleman Westlake PUP, 1986 Coachmen PUP
2008 Hyundai Entourage (minivan), 1993 Ford Explorer

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by doc73

I have the filter and still got threw... But in ten years of various trailers and a pop up first and only time. Gave me something to do on my day off.

EDIT: I have the strainer, might be different than what you are saying?

That is better terminology it is a strainer with a collector bowl, which reminds me I have to pull mine out and see how much sand is in it.
Tom

[DobeFanatic]

Installed the new water pump and it works fine now. Strange how the OEM one which was never really used just seemed to die though the motor ran, diaphragm was clean, filter clean, it had no suction. New one gives nice flow, quiet.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by DobeFanatic

Installed the Still, if new water pump and it works fine now. Strange how the OEM one which was never really used just seemed to die though the motor ran, diaphragm was clean, filter clean, it had no suction. New one gives nice flow, quiet.

Good news.

Still, if the motor in the old one is running full bore, probably worth getting the pump rebuild kit and building it back, as a spare.

[DobeFanatic]

I will be storing the old one for sure. Next is to pull the anode rod and replace. Ordered two from Amazon with a tool to remove it, magnesium type said to be the better choice. Leaving for week of camping at Lake Wateree in Winnsboro, SC 10/11, then to Wytheville VA overnight, then to camp in driveway at family home on Lake Erie for another week. I'm sure it will be chilly somewhere up there, so trying to get my ducks in a row this month.

[DobeFanatic]

New water pump is finally in and working fine. Flushed water heater, new anode rod and LED's added for ceiling lights. Now I can actually think about packing for my trip in two weeks Florida to Ohio woohoo!

[sledboy2k]

Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by sledboy2k

Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.

I would start by looking under any bench type seating (pull any panels the cushions rest on)then under the sink behind any panels located there.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by sledboy2k

Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.

I would've posted your question in the Shockwave sub-forum. This is the A-frame trailer section.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by sledboy2k

Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.

If you turn on the pump and open a faucet inside some where, just enough for a strong trickle, you'll hear the pump thump away and find it easily. Secure outside hose if connected.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by sledboy2k

Could someone tell me where the fresh water pump is located on my 2012 shockwave 21FS. Ive looked under the trailer, no access panels on the outside except for back of fridge.

Took a half case of beer and three friends helping before we finally found mine (not a Shockwave) the pump sound traveled to sound as though it was everywhere. It was very deceiptive. By the second round of beer we swore the sound was coming from under the shower. By the sound and vibration, we decided it had to be under the shower pan and were nearly ready to lift it to look. Another trailer of the same year and model was in our group and he had never seen his either. Turns out it is usually inside or in a compartment where it is not likely to freeze first. Ours was behind a drawer just to the side where we missed it the first time we pulled the drawer out. In hind sight, we realized that it has to be accessible since they do fail with fair frequency. Usually behind a blank panel, under a sink or in a compartment with or without an access cover. Now I realize that the pump was above the fresh water tank and we could have followed the water line from bottom of the tank, right up the side and through the floor to the pump

Turns out too that logic may have been hampered by the beer, but is was a fun afternoon hunt and since it was still working and we only did it out curiosity and then frustration that none of us could find it, No harm. Turned in to a good think to know a few months later when if failed. GOOD LUCK

[kdot]

Sledboy, after years of camping in travel trailers, I can tell you that the water pump could be anywhere, but there's a pretty straightforward, if laborious, way to find it. Open every storage area inside and out and look for an innocent-looking vertical partition that is screwed to the floor of the compartment. Unscrew the partition and look behind it. I can almost guarantee you will find your water pump behind one of them. If the partition is glued to the floor, don't remove it. The key is the screws at the bottom of the partition, holding it in place vertically, to protect the pump from being bumped by anything else in the compartment. Good luck.

Kdot