Water pump not working?

[DobeFanatic]

I've had the camper 3 years but always used city water, till today. Since I have a long trip next month, might need on board water tank, decided to fill in the driveway and check it out. First, I ran city water, filled hot water tank, good flow at both faucets, then disconnected city and filled the onboard water tank till the spout overflowed so I know it is full. To bad they can't make a tank with a visual indicator somewhere!
Turned on pump switch, don't hear a thing.
I get a trickle of cold water which diminished to a drip in less than a minute, same with hot side.
Checked fuse, 10 ATC, it is fine. All circuits good,AC running fine. Turned switch again , off/on, still no change in water flow. Manual says to check vent? Where is vent?
When I had a pup, I could hear the ShurFlo turn on/off intermittently, but with this A frame, no sound at all.
What else can I do to check this out as I may need it down the road.

[bruceatlam]

Well, the pump is a 12V pump. By chance do you have a battery disconnect switch?? Did you reconnect the battery before you began your test??

[DobeFanatic]

I don't have a disconnect, and the battery is hooked up, and also on shore power. My DC lights work fine. Do you have a camper of this type?

[FarNorthCamping]

Put a test light on the power and ground of the pump. Then you will know if it is the pump or a power issue.

[DobeFanatic]

I am not that skilled unfortunately. I need to hear from someone with this type of Shurflo pump. You have not yet identified your type of camper in your settings?

[FarNorthCamping]

I just got a Flagstaff T12 BH. If you are unable to test for power I would bet that the pump is bogged down by gunk that formed in the impeller after sitting for three years. I would pull out the pump and see if you could clean it out.

[RSchleder]

Really doesn't take any special skill. Simply put the red probe on the + terminal of the pump and the black probe on the pump - terminal. If the light lights up, you have 12V to the pump and the pump is the issue. If it doesn't light up, you don't have 12V to the pump, and the problem is in the wiring/fuse!

Note- be sure you use a test light made for 12V, not 120V.

[DobeFanatic]

I don't know where the pump is located, though may be under bench seat near the switch. What test meter should I ask for at Home Depot?

[FarNorthCamping]

12v test light. Follow the wires from the switch to the pump. When you get the test light it doesn't matter if you put the clamp end or pointy end on either wire . it will work either way.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by DobeFanatic

I don't know where the pump is located, though may be under bench seat near the switch. What test meter should I ask for at Home Depot?

If I may suggest.

Klein Tools Electrical Analog Multimeter Test Kit-69149 - The Home Depot

It will allow you to test just about everything.

[f5moab]

I would guess it would be located near the sink. Easier to run a short water line and a longer electrical wire vs. short electrical wire and long water line.
For example, mine is located directly below the sink.
And it lasted a little over one year.

[DobeFanatic]

I pulled the cover on the bench seat, switch is below it. I see two wires from switch which seem to disappear below the floor after leaving the electrical panel next to it.
I will look under sink next. There is a water line with a stubby filter, marked ShurFlo and the pump is enclosed there behind 8 x8 in panels stapled together. I will ask my son to come over, search for a vent hole outside the camper in case there is a vacuum lock somewhere. The flow is still a trickle tapering to nothing. I will look for a tester to keep on hand. I really am getting too old for thus stuff! Never did like electrical stuff, though I used to be good with drywall, kitchen remodel, etc 10 + years ago.

[DobeFanatic]

I found a digital analog multimeter on Amazon for $16.00. Is this good enough? Got great reviews. I would hope directions are included as I wouldn't know what setting to use for DC.
Features
1.Accurately measures current, voltage, resistance, and more
2.Backlit LCD with large digits for visibility in dimly lit areas
3.Includes 9V battery and pair of test leads
4.Small size for portability - Perfect for use while on the go
5.Displays results quickly with 2-3 readings per second update speed

Specifications
Measurement ranges; Accuracy
DC Voltage: 200mV/2000mV/20V/200V/500V; ±(0.5%+2)
AC Voltage: 200V/500V; ±(1.2%+10)
DC Current: 2000μA/20mA/200mA/10A; ±(1%+2)
Resistance: 200Ω/2000Ω/20KΩ/200KΩ/20MΩ/200MΩ ±(0.8%+2)
LCD Size: 1.9×0.63 inch
Net Weight: 6.3oz

[kdot]

DobeFanatic, if your unit is the same as the A122S I had, your water pump is on the floor, under the sink, right up front by the cabinet door. Easy to reach. Good luck!

Kdot

[DobeFanatic]

Originally Posted by kdot

DobeFanatic, if your unit is the same as the A122S I had, your water pump is on the floor, under the sink, right up front by the cabinet door. Easy to reach. Good luck!
Kdot

Kdot- when you turn on the pump, can you hear anything right away?

Then when you run water, what if anything do you hear?

My battery hookup is good, everything battery works, except pump. I don't hear a thing when I flip the switch. I don't want to pull cover on pump if not necessary as it is very difficult with a lumbar fusion to work down on the floor.
Also, wonder if there is a vent on the reserve water tank that may be could affect water flow/vacuum etc. ?

If I pull the pump to clean it, should I disconnect battery first or just leave the switch off?

When you test the pump from under sink, does the whole thing have to come out? Or can you see positive, negative at open door to test?
Was it hard to get the cover back on the pump area?

[Big Vic]

There may be a fuse for the pump. You will need to look at the pump wiring to see if there is a fuse on the wiring. You will also be able to tell with a multimeter if the pump is getting voltage or not at the positive and negative connectors.

[DobeFanatic]

OK, after I spent $39 for Klein multimeter, took probe to camper, turned on pump, opened door under sink and I hear a light hum, like a low fan, though the probe does not indicate power near the wiring, go figure. But, still no more than a drip from each faucet. So... why with full reserve, no water?
I crawled under the camper. OMG, released water tap, definitely water in tank. Looked at the lines nearby. One is clear but has moldy gunk in it. Looks like a fitting that would be released by crimping with pliers to flush that out. Upper end of the line appears to be clear water, but lower end has gunk in it. Whaddya think? Could I crimp the metal band to pull off line to drain it?

[clr]

Some what confused by your no power near the wiring comment here. You have to make contact with the copper wiring to read the voltage with the multi-meter. So it sounds like you may be using a small ac circuit alerting tester that will light and buzz when in the close proximity to AC voltage. This type of tested will not show the presence of DC.

So if the pump is humming I would say it does have DC power.
Therefore I would check in the following order.
1. Is the strainer clogged with debris.
2. Is the inlet tubing/plumbing sucking is air at plumbing connections (vacume leak).
3. Is the inlet/outlet plumbing severely restricted or kinked? Restrictive valves.
4. For debris in pump inlet/outlet valves or swollen/dry valves.

Good luck and happy hunting.

[DobeFanatic]

Where are these things? I see a little screw on filter about 1.5 in deep with screen near the pump, few drips of water when unscrewed but otherwise looks clean..
Clear tubing near reserve tank with slimy looking debris in it, but wonder if I can remove the band holding it in place with pliers?
If that doesn't fix it, can I take apart the pump to clean the diaphragm easily, or not?
1. Is the strainer clogged with debris.
2. Is the inlet tubing/plumbing sucking is air at plumbing connections (vacume leak).
3. Is the inlet/outlet plumbing severely restricted or kinked? Restrictive valves.
4. For debris in pump inlet/outlet valves or swollen/dry valves.

[clr]

Yes the little screw on filter with screen near the pump is the strainer I was speaking about. When you remove this unless you have a shut off valve you should have the head pressure of the full water tank at the filter. If you see slimy looking debris in the intake line I would bet this is your problem. You should be able to remove the hose with a pair of pliers as you stated.
If that does not work yes you can take the pump diaphragm apart and clean and or check that.