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Old 03-20-2014, 12:49 PM   #1
trailgranny's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: North Central Oklahoma
Posts: 39
water question

Bought long desired A frame last July. Slept in on way home and 3 nights last fall prior to hubby taking severely ill most of camping season so winterized and just de-winterized. Hooked to city water to flush and no to very little water output in all faucets, sink, shower, and outside shower! Tried water in holding tank with no city water and using DC pump, more water but still real slow flow. Could this be the onboard filter causing an issue? Another observation, at the freshwater tank hose instead of plastic elbow, dumb arrangement, is pinched, could that be the issue? Does the city water fill the holding tank creating the pressure and water flow or is my camper just screwed up from factory? On another note. The fill gage for cassette toilet, which has been a bugger to fill, also has tiny black rubber hose that consistently crimps and doesn't allow a reading as designed. Simple fix plastic elbows install? But if that doesn't fix it then what? Also, how does one access the stupid filter/remove and by pass to use exterior one like we've done in all our other campers the last 30+ years ? Another question, has anyone ever taken the shower drain elbow under the frame off and installed a straight thread end to gain height for that to go to standard waste tote? Boy I'm just a bundle of questions today! ! Can you tell we're finally crawling out of hibernation from an exceptionally long COLD winter? Yippee for Spring! Any input greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-20-2014, 01:50 PM   #2
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Location: Whereever our Berkshire is Parked!
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Hi & Welcome to the Forums!

Just a quick note (I am not an A Frame owner) but this applies to all RVs.

Go to your local RV Store or Wal Mart and Get a RV Pressure regulator - it will set you back <$10. Use this every time you connect your hose to ANY water source. It will keep you from blowing out your fresh water system
  1. Have you inserted Hot Water Heater core? If not do so now and tighten.
  2. Have you closed all under unit water drain plugs? If not, do so now.
  3. Make sure all your sewage (grey/Black/Galley) dump valves are closed.
  4. Check Filter - this may be the problem (although you should have removed it when you winterized).
    1. If filter is still in canister, open canister and discard filter. Reassemble canister for now.
  5. For City water, shut everything off inside
  6. hook up hose to Unit.
  7. Hook up hose to pressure regulator.
  8. Pressure regulator to spigot.
  9. Turn water spigot full on.
  10. Check for outside leaks.
    1. All OK? If no, tighten until leak free.
  11. Check under unit
    1. see any water seepage? No? Good!
  12. Check water filter - the canister should be full of water by now.
    1. Is it leaking? No? Good! Yes? Tighten with canister wrench.
  13. Go in unit and open COLD water tap closest to city water inlet (where you hooked the hose up).
    1. How's the water pressure coming out of the spigot now? If really good and the faucet varies the flow, run it for 3 min or so, shut off.

      NOTE: This is my de-antifreezing checklist in your special case, if the filter canister is not full of water and/or a good water flow is not coming from the first faucet, stop. You have water issues that need to be diagnosed before we continue.

    2. Pour the correct amount of gray water treatment down the sink.
    3. Run the tap 1 more min to flush that into the tank
  14. Go to next COLD water spigot, run it for 3 min or so, shut off.
  15. Do this for every cold water spigot in your unit.
  16. Now do it for your Cold water spigot in your INSIDE shower
  17. Now do it for your Cold water spigot in your OUTSIDE shower
Your cold water lines are flushed now.

Your hot water heater should be filled by now. You can check this by pushing the pressure relief valve - water should dribble out.

Once you confirm water is in the heater:
  1. Turn on the propane
    1. Or, if electric, start the electric ignition.
  2. Light the water heater.
  3. Wait 20 min for the water to heat.
  4. Go to closest HOT water faucet to hot water heater, open it and check flow & temp of water.
    1. If OK run for 2-3 min, shut off.
  5. Go to next hot water faucet and Repeat until all hot water faucets in your unit are done.
  6. Now do it for your Hot water spigot in your INSIDE shower.
  7. Now do it for your Hot water spigot in your OUTSIDE shower.
All your water pipes and hot water heater are flushed now.

Open the cap to your fresh water tank and try to un-pinch the opening. Pour in some sanitizer (use ratio on bottle to size of your tank); Fill your fresh water tank. Close it back up.
1. Turn Shore water spigot off.
2. Make sure all faucets/showers are shut off inside
3. unhook water hose from Unit,
4. Unhook pressure regulator from spigot.
5. Store water hose

Turn on the water pump
  • Drop a black water cleaner packet or whatever you use to condition your black water tank in the toilet and constantly "flush" the toilet until the black water tank is 1/2 full.
  • This has the benefit of emptying your fresh water tank (partially).
  • Now, Hook up the unit and take a nice leisurely drive to the closest dump station. Driving with your tanks partially full will rinse them and prep them for the season
  • Dump your tanks at the dump station.
  • Drain your Fresh water tank (there should be a valve at the low point under your unit)
  • If there is a source of CLEAN potable water at dump station, hook up to shore water and run 1-3 GAL of water into the black and gray tank.
  • Put appropriate amount of water treatment in each tank
  • Fill and drain your fresh water tank again and cap. Tank is now sealed and sanitized.
Let's Go Camping!!

Bob & Anne-Marie [BamaBob & 6 Actual]
| 2017 Berkshire XLT 43A with Ultrasteer Tag | Blue Ox Avail + KarGard II |
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Nights Camped: 2013 - 24 2014 - 42 2015 - 56 Jul 2016 - Fulltime
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:59 PM   #3
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Location: North Central Oklahoma
Posts: 39
Thanks for the attempt to explain. However, we've been camping in everything from tents to 5 th wheelers for 40 years and are very familiar with all you describe, in your average camper. The A frames and pop ups are a bit different in design which, in downsizing for us, has a learning curve, only fresh water holding tank, no grey or bkack water holding tank, black water is a cassette toilet. The filter issue, when we can find it as is currently invisible, will be addressed with a plumbing change to straight line and use the in line house filter system we have used forever. The inability to get water TO the faucets as well as hot water heater right now is the problem. Couple that with crimped water lines and the frustration grows. Fixing hoses tomorrow and since the guy coming to try to help is an RV expert and visual is always easier than long distance so maybe he can find the stupid and unnecessary filter and remove and bypass it. If there is still an inflow issue back to a dealer it will have to go as these things are built from the outside in and it will be a major dismantle and rebuild. Sucks for it being new and unused! The questions about the water system might be better addressed by someone familiar with these little guys but I REALLY appreciate you patience and efforts to help. Back to packing.....if we even get to go now now. Thanks again.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:48 PM   #4
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Location: Milford, MA
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Can't speak to the toilet or shower, but the filter is under the sink, you can unscrew the dome and fake out the filter element and reattach the dome and you've essentially eliminated the restriction of the filter element. You can cut out the filter altogether and respli e with common plumbing parts but just taking out the filter element is a good quick fix.

When connected to city water the fresh holding tank is not used. Nor is the DC wafer pump.
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:03 PM   #5
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You might also check the screen on the faucets last week when I went to use my camper found that the screens were plugged. Simple unscrew from faucet and used a small wire brush to clean.
F-150 Lariat 2012 T12BH 2012
Camping RenFaire 44 days
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:13 PM   #6
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He, he, he! Yours may be under the sink but mine is in hiding! There IS a paneling box stuck together under there that covers the pump, you can only see the fill bulb and part of a couple wires and part of a small diameter hose. So the next step appears to be deconstructing that cheap little compartment for a look see. Another fix for cheapness is new drawer guide ends since one side of one drawer has the stapled in plastic end broken letting drawer fall partially. Drat! And no, the drawer wasn't stuffed with heavy stuff. Just cheap so going back with metal on both sides then the other drawer when, not if, it breaks. Thanks for the info on the city water to tank thought. One thing not to consider. Have call in to Forest River couple days now but no response yet. Since its was bought out of state the warranty work will be a b****
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:29 PM   #7
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Location: North Central Oklahoma
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Yup, that happened in my house too. Outdoor shower has same problem as does the inside shower. Exploring all thoughts. Worst thing is we made camping reservations starting Sunday and they have a non-refundable portion of the fees. Could use the tent camping option on the side of my tiny 1 horse trailer but it's looking like pretty cold nights and hubby old, hard to get up in night without solid wall to lean on. Ho hum. The joys of aging. LOL
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:33 PM   #8
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The filter cartridge removal sounds like a winner. Line of least expense best for old SS farts. Thanks for suggestion.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:16 PM   #9
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But do check the screens on your faucets. That got me once.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:46 PM   #10
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How does one take the shower heads apart to check any screens? Sink faucet easy enough, done that before. Wonder how the screens, even filter cartridge could get clogged when camper was used only once and it was somewhat of an issue from date of purchase? Factory manufacturing residue maybe?

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