What to ask for

[Jodilc]

We will be picking up our new 192HW in a couple of weeks. Are there add-on accessories we should consider that you found useful? Did you have any luck with the dealer "throwing in" any extras during the sale?

[5picker]

Is this your first RV?
Do you have basic things like sewer hose and connections, water hose, power cord extensions? If you don't, those are always good things to ask for.
Vent covers, step carpets, patio mats, chairs, grill, and other odds and ends are some of the things I've been offered by my selling dealers.

[Jodilc]

This is not our first. We just sold our pop-up, which we've been camping in for the past 10-years. Kids are grown so we're getting the A frame.

[biscuit72]

I was able to have the dealer include a n extra year on the warranty and the awning. About a $650 value for both. I also had him deduct the cost of a battery as I purchased two 6 volt AGM's separately. Of course this was all negotiated before I signed. I think they threw in a hose for the drain, the 30 amp power cord a couple other small items, but this was included in the dealer prep fee, so I really paid for those items. I think I got them to reduce the fee some but can't remember how much. Good luck and hope you enjoy it.

[JustB_Rad]

spare tire?

[DanM-AZ]

Electric tongue jack if they don't already include that.
The factory tent/canopy:


I use a separate EZ-UP / First-Up canopy, but some folks like the factory attached unit.

[ccamper]

I really like my factory canopy. Battery woukd be a good thing to ask for. Mine came with the power tongue jack, but I asked them for the manual jack and they gave it to me along with the swivel wheel

[jimdic]

We have had our high wall now for 3 years and love it. A battery and spare tire should be included with the unit. We received a 30 foot water hose and outside screen for the furnace at no charge. Being we got a very good deal to start with, we felt happy with the extras. At that time we bought the camper at $4,000 below list and felt more than satisfied with that. I know others that paid more and got chairs or the screen tent with theirs. Talk to the dealer before they get the final check.

[mickrock]

After you have had one, you won't do without.

[DrLewie]

Take the new rig out for a couple of nights as a shakedown cruise. You'll figure out what extras you need pretty quick.

[MinneweeseMI]

Some of these are from the dealer, some of them we find really convenient though you might already use them from your many years of popup camping:

1. Awning
2. 120v adapter for the power cable
3. a bottle of sanitizer for the cassette potty
4. magnetic key holder
5. 5 gallon jug and water connections for sink drain
6. swap for LED runing lights (if they are not standard by now)
7. electric kettle saves gas when you have electricity
8. small LED light hung from the fan knob
9. 1500w space heater (furnace is noisy at night)
10. converted jack with drill (if you don't have a power jack)

[Pooneil]

Originally Posted by MinneweeseMI

converted jack with drill (if you don't have a power jack)

I don't know if they'll give you a drill, but the power drill mod for the jack is a time saver for me. Particularly on that long travel upwards when hitching up. Set the drill on fast speed with the clutch set lightly to limit the torque and the jack is stowed in seconds.


Also if you're getting free stuff from them, ask for a Camco plastic tongue jack stand. It saves from having to put the wheel on if the camper is properly parked when you unhitch. Getting the pin through the holes on the tongue jack is a pain for me. And if you hadn't noticed, I dislike spending unnecessary time on hitching and unhitching.

[dts3204]

Two things I found wrong with converting the Jack to a drill. Connecting nuts weren't strong enough. Started showing wear and leaving metal shavings all around the base. Couldn't find a pin strong enough to last more than a 12 cycles. Gave up and replaced with a non travel trailer jack handle. Only got it cause my original handle broke. Was desperate and found an industrial trailer place that had a replacement handle. Works great and is fast.

[MinneweeseMI]

I think I got the idea from Pooniel originally. I have not seen a shaving yet (2.5 years, 120 cycles?). I remember when I put the cross bolt in the bolt was super-tight, I may have even scuffed the threads a bit it was so tight. So maybe mine doesn't have any play, or I lucked out and grabbed a high-strength bolt?

I like what Pooniel said about the clutch and high-speed. My drill must not be very strong, I use high-speed on the stabilizer jacks and when the drill stops, they are done. (Not much weight on them at all.) On low-speed, it cranks the front jack up without too much trouble.

That reminds me of another nice-to-have and the dealer might throw them in: stick-on levels. I use one on the tongue and one on a rear taillight. Of course, I did not get them perfect, so I spent some time leveling the trailer in the driveway with a contractor's level, then noting where my cheapo levels were at. "It's good enough for who it's for."

[dts3204]

I use just an 18 inch level. Tried the stick ones didn't stay. Go with Mark 1 Eyeball first open then use the level. As far as the stabilizers I use a hammer drill works better than a regular drill.

[Pooneil]

I haven't seen any wear on the connector nut either. I use an 6 point 3/4 in. socket with an integrated universal swivel. The universal is mostly for the Bal leveler, but it also helps on the stabilizers because the screws wiggle some because they are not are not perfectly straight. So one tool fits all.

I modded the original handle so it now has a 3/4 socket incase I forget the drill. This also had the advantage of lifting the handle up higher so I don't bang the propane tank cover.