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Old 04-12-2012, 08:50 AM   #51
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Yeah, mine's a 5 yd roll too. I'll have to see if there's enough there to do the bubble window. That's all I think I'd use it for anyway.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #52
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15' should be more than enough to do the bubble window, but I'm disappointed in Graingers for their typographical error.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:06 AM   #53
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Glad I went crazy and ordered 2 rolls!..lol

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Old 04-12-2012, 10:57 AM   #54
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There are times when a little insanity is the only proper response to the world. I went out and measured my bubble and, including the modest amount of overlap at the corners, per 3M's installation video for this tape, I figure I'll need 191 inches, 11 inches more than I have.

Just called up the local Grainger store; they offer the same deal. Will pick up another roll tomorrow, saving the shipping.
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:41 AM   #55
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When we got our first pop up we stripped it down and repainted it. I removed all the old caulk, not easy on textured surface. I used caulk recommended at trailer shop. I have realized caulk needs to be checked several time a year. But this tape is great idea, I am going to add it to our supplies.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:10 PM   #56
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Professional looking caulk "gaskets" around windows

There are three caulk-adhesive products I would recommend, having repaired trailers for about 5 years: Colorimetric, Silaprene, and GeoCell RV Pro Flex. I prefer the first two, though the ProFlex is fine also. Use the regular caulk-adhesive, NOT the self-leveling that is made for roof repairs as it "flows" for a long time. If used on anything but a horizontal surface it will flow right off or puddle at the bottom.

Apply like regular caulk for cracks, joints, etc. If using around a bubble window or roof vent, run a thick masking tape (or two layers of masking tape atop each other) around the edge of the item to be caulked. Place one strip about 1/2" farther out from the existing "gasket" of caulk. Place a second strip of masking tape inside the existing "gasket". You should now have two lines of masking tape 1" wider than the existing caulk "gasket" (1/2" on each side).

Apply the caulk-adhesive between the masking taped lines. All of these caulks are petroleum-based, so smooth them with a smooth (softer) paper towel or cloth saturated with mineral spirits or similar solvent. Do not over-work the caulk, just make it reasonably smooth. Allow 10-15 minutes for caulk to set up. Remove the masking tape slowly so as to not disturb your handiwork. If you wait longer the tape may be hard to remove & tear often due to film strength of caulk. Allow the caulk to set for several days without succumbing to the temptation to touch it; this caulk takes a little while to cure but remains flexible for years.

You will discover your hard work has resulted in a professional looking "gasket" that overlaps the original seal and provides additional protection. CAUTION: 1) Apply in a ventilated work area. 2) These are ADHESIVE-caulks, so removing them once they're cured is HARD to do without damaging your trailer! But the quality of this repair is excellent. 3) Clean-up requires petroleum-based solvents. 4) Wear disposable gloves while working with the caulk-adhesive.
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:28 AM   #57
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Welcome, Chris.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:01 PM   #58
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bookmarked ... thanks for that ...

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