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Old 04-22-2015, 11:32 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by loislee View Post
There is no way to bring the slide in when it is stuck out. You have to go under unit and try to pry the end of the slide tube loose and have 6 friends push it back in. The problem we have now is fixing the bolts in the drive rod that we sheared off.
I can attest to what a pain that is... While not having friends help, my son and I did manually wrench the drive shaft (my words) by the gear pack to get the slide back in. What a pain.

I would contact Mark Quinn and discuss the situation with your slide.

The Lippert facility that we went to was at the corner of CR 36 and Century drive in Goshen. You can see it on Google Maps.

John
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Old 08-19-2015, 10:27 AM   #22
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Let me tell you about our slide problem! We went back to the factory twice and was headed back again but my brother-in-law had a great idea !
The slide pop and grind going out and trying to get it in was very embarrassing we had to push and shove ! Ok on with the fix ! We had the guy come out and weld two brackets on to hold a new cylinder , and hydronic lines and a new gear and it work like a charm ! We called Matt a Dyamax and he had the parts sent to us!


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Old 08-19-2015, 10:41 AM   #23
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Where did you add/mount the new cylinder? Can you take a few pictures? Our slide has been working well since the repair by Lippert. I do get a wood "crunching" sound as the slide finishes the last few inches of travel going out. Sound is coming from just above the microwave. Not sure yet what is causing it.

I had talked to the tech at Lippert on why only one cylinder was used. He indicated it was because of the design ordered by Dynamax.

Would like to see what you did!

John
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:27 PM   #24
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I would love but I have already put the undercover back on ! But I had angle iron welded on the frame to hold the cylinder our trilogy is a 2013 with a 90lb propane tank under the belly like a coach !
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:40 PM   #25
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We had the same problem ; I put a second cylinder on my slide on the end the frig is on ! Had to run two hydronic lines with T's and a new gear and these parts are color coded , you have to have two peices of angle iron for each end of the cylinder! Feels much stronger now and only took about a hour or so! After the welding is done! Wish I had taken pictures
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:47 PM   #26
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Have got it fixed now ? If not I might be able to let you know what well fix it!
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:57 PM   #27
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What year is your trilogy! Ours is a 2013 3800D3
You well need 32 ft hydrilc line 2 T's take the two elbows out of the hydrloic cylinder put elbows in new cylinder ( you make the the same as on the rear one ) drill a 2'' hole in your railing beside! Make the same as the rear
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:40 PM   #28
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What year is your trilogy! Ours is a 2013 3800D3
You well need 32 ft hydrilc line 2 T's take the two elbows out of the hydrloic cylinder put elbows in new cylinder ( you make the the same as on the rear one ) drill a 2'' hole in your railing beside! Make the same as the rear
We have a 2014 3850RL. Did you buy a hydraulic cylinder? What model number? Is it the same size as the one on the rear? Where did you get the hydraulic hoses?

John
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:58 PM   #29
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I got everything from lippert ! And remember everything is color coded ! The hydrloic lines are orange . They run about $7 something a foot . If you need to talk to me your welcome to call me I'm in Ky 859 319 0056
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Old 08-19-2015, 09:01 PM   #30
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Just a nother 2 cents worth! You can get your hydrloic line at a noble home parts store .
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