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Old 10-13-2013, 07:01 PM   #1
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add insulation

I have a dynamax 3850 d3. This is how to insulate the back wall of your basement. CRawl into your basement. You can sit up. Remove the 3 panels on the rear wall. Go to home depot and purchase 1 sheet on Doe 1 inch pink foam board, a roll od silver tapr for ac duct and an new outlet box for the tv connection. Go to Walmart and buy 1 can of spray rubber. Cut the foam to fit. Dont forget overhead. Look at the lower corners and you can see outside. Install foam and reinstall panels. Install your new box for tv connections. Crawl underneath and t ou will see your foam. Spray with your rubber. You are done.
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:36 PM   #2
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I also am considering doing a little insulation in the bay but I am considering using the "Reflectix" type insulation, I think its a little easier to work with in some of the tighter spaces but I do like the the idea of the ridged insulation on the on the 3 panels.
We went camping for the last time this season this weekend , lower 30's overnight ,we had no issues, mainly used the fireplace and a ceramic heater kept it at 72 deg without a problem, we only used the furnace at night to maintain temp at 65 since I don't like using the fireplace while i'm sleeping....too bad we are done for the season its going to be a lonnnnggggg winter
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:29 PM   #3
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insulation

Agree on adding insulation all over underneath including bay cargo.
Temp bellow freezing point last 10 nights and mid 30 near 40 day time
unit does warm up in no time as soon sun up.
Same with me fireplace only while i'm around + one oil heater , furnace evening time and early morning .
Don't know what i will go for yet but i will add more insulation for sure next spring.

Rene
Dynamax Trilogy 3850 RL 2014
Ford F 450 Platinum 2013
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:19 AM   #4
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The rigid insulation was the perfect thickness for the space. I may go back and put some blow in insulation in the holes cut in the floor for the plumbing. If I needed to access it for sonething I could just vacum it out. I would not blow it in, just drop it in by hand.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Priusron View Post
The rigid insulation was the perfect thickness for the space. I may go back and put some blow in insulation in the holes cut in the floor for the plumbing. If I needed to access it for sonething I could just vacum it out. I would not blow it in, just drop it in by hand.
I would not recommend using the blown in insulation due to the possibility of rodents, I would recommend using the canned foam insulation , I use the DAP brand as it doesn't get hard like some of the other brands, now for that square hole in the utility bay , I would take a piece of nylon screen (window screens) and secure it on the underside of the hole (duct tape? ) and then foam it (the screen will just give a little support for the foam while it cures), The DAP foam stays pliable even after it cures and not too bad to remove if you have to get in there, just a thought to give you another option.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:52 AM   #6
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I don't recall a square hole and my trailer is being repaired right now. Where is it located. Are you possibly talkinh about the holes up above the panels?
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:40 AM   #7
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+1 on using something that isn't good nesting material for critters. Also, where there is access to the outside, consider layers of hardware cloth or rustproof steel wool with the foam. Or Exacto blades. They love fiberglass insulation for nesting material, and they'll eat thru plain foam.

Foam is a good insulator, but Reflectix is actually not. The Reflectix is awesome stuff, but they ain't telling the truth about its R value.
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