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Old 02-06-2014, 08:17 PM   #11
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I have never heard of wholes in your duct for heat in the underbelly, what TT do you have. Most units come with a 2" duct in the underbelly off the furnace. heated tanks and heated elbows take care of the other problem. There is some silver insulation on top of the underbelly which is about 1/4" thick with an
R value of 3.75. But can go up to R24. It is sold at HD and lowes in rolls mostly used to wrap water heaters but it is the same comes in widths up to 48".
It is sealed foiled front and back. Even if you have to double it you would never have a problem as Les brought up. Not cheap by any means. I will say this, if the factory cut wholes in my duct runs they would be replacing them.
I believe the furnace ducts are 4", not 2", at least mine are.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:42 PM   #12
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I believe the furnace ducts are 4", not 2", at least mine are.

Do you have holes in your ducts that allow hot air to flow in the belly cavity?
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:52 PM   #13
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Do you have holes in your ducts that allow hot air to flow in the belly cavity?
Not that I know of but I've never dropped the underbelly to examine them. I just rely on the conduction & radiation from the thin aluminum flex ducts. Had several nights of mid 20 temps before we left Concord and just turned the furnace blower on with only the EdenPure electric heater going and the basement stayed in the upper 40's.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:19 PM   #14
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The water supply line from the pump enters a hole into the duct. There are also additional holes for heated air. I have discussed this with John Armstrong and he confirms this is the purpose.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:02 AM   #15
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I believe the furnace ducts are 4", not 2", at least mine are.
I only have (1) 2" duct that is in my underbelly and that blows into the basement storage area. There is a 3/4 high wall that transfer the heat to the back that separates the storage area and the rest of the unit There is a short panel that I remove to access the valves that have to be switched to winterize behind that wall plus the water filter area, But I removed that and use a external high flow carbon one now. That is where I put the heater facing that area the blower on the heater pushes air across the pump and all the main lines. All my water lines start there except the fresh tank water line which go's to the rear where my tank is located. I get alot more heat pushed back to the rear that way. I have to watch out when I first started doing it that way I got the basement up to 80 degrees. I put (1) of my accuright remote temps down there from my refer to monitor the temps from the basement. I have only two (2") ducts that come off a 4" run with a y branch 1 go's to my bedroom right above the furnace and the 2 when go's to the basement right next to furnace. But it starts out as a 4" connected to the Plenum. This works for me. I will be putting in valves on my low point drains inside the basement since that is what froze on me the 6" exposed hanging down under the unit. When you shoot the pink stuff in for storage no problem, but when you are dewinterize using the unit there is really nothing you can do about it.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:05 AM   #16
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I am still kicking around insulating the floor in the front storage bay or just putting in a ENVI passive heat wall mount panel heater, I installed one in the living area and have been testing it to see how it performs, and thus far it has maintained a 5 to 15 degree temp above the outside temperature (with no other heat source running) it only draws 450 watts and they claim it will handle 400 sq ft (yeah maybe in a sticks and bricks) and I have not used it with other heat sources as of yet to see how it performs. So at this point I really can't do much on the rig with 2ft of snow on the ground and daily below freezing weather , but I am thinking that instead of spending the time and money insulating that this Envi heater would more than do the job of heating the bay and keep the floors warmer......but like I said I am still up in the air on what I am going to do .
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