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Old 03-14-2014, 10:21 AM   #1
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Solar panels on a 3650RE?

I bought a 20W solar panel and would like to permanently install it on the roof of my 2013 Trilogy 3650RE. It will just be used to maintain the batteries while in storage. I would prefer to be able to somehow pull the wiring from the panel to the batteries with minimal effort, but I don't see how that can be done. What I'll likely do is just run the wire on the outside of the unit down to the battery bank, which would be unsightly, but functional.
I'm hoping that someone has worked on this exact unit, and can give me some pointers that I'm not seeing right now... Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
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I think that many people use the vent for the refrigerator to get wires from the roof down into the camper. Still tough from there to the batteries.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:52 AM   #3
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Bring your wires through the the refrigerator vent as ependydad stated, mount your charge controller (either in the fridge compartment or drill a hole through the wood and bring the solar wires into the compartment below the fridge). If you are not using a disconnect to disconnect the batteries while in storage you can run wires from from the charge controller to the battery wires at the TT power converter, if you are using a disconnect find a spot where lines or wires go through the floor and run your wires from the charge controller next to them and through the hole and then along the frame to the batteries.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:14 AM   #4
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Isn't the fridge in the slideout? That means no roof vent to run through.

I've read of a couple people going down through the plumbing vent. Not the easiest, but avoids drilling through the roof. I'm leaning toward running down the outside on my trailer and into the vertical channel of the awning. That would cover up most of the run down the side.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMP44 View Post
Isn't the fridge in the slideout? That means no roof vent to run through.
It is:


I wish more manufacturers offered conduit that runs from the roof down.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I wish more manufacturers offered conduit that runs from the roof down.
For sure - a piece of conduit, a cap, and some Dicor. Probably less than $10 in materials - call it a "solar prep package." Or go all out and mount a set of Z brackets on the roof as well. They sell for around $10 a set. Then anybody could install a decent solar setup without having to put any holes in the roof.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:21 PM   #7
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Forget the roof use a mobile panel. No holes anywhere and you can put it on a tripod, hang it from the ladder etc. Especially if it is in storage...
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:51 AM   #8
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the plumbing vent is the route I plan to use when I add solar, no drilling into the roof , Punch a hole into vent pipe in utility bay, remove vent cap on roof and run a fish tape up the pipe, tape on wires and pull down length you need and be sure to leave a service coil in the bay (for any future changes) and seal the holes. Doing it this way seems to be the least invasive (and easiest ) way to go about it in my opinion
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:24 AM   #9
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Utility bay?
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by garbonz View Post
Utility bay?
ok I assumed people would know where I was talking about.....its the area behind the panels in your cargo bay ....furnace, hot water heater ,plumbing and electrical are all in there
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:10 PM   #11
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Ahhh. I get it, the no man's land of mysterious wires and tubes and pipes behind the cargo space. Very good idea.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:04 PM   #12
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Could you piggyback at the place the JACK TV cable goes through the roof?

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Old 03-16-2014, 11:06 PM   #13
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Ahhh. I get it, the no man's land of mysterious wires and tubes and pipes behind the cargo space. Very good idea.
Yes that is the area where the magic happens ......lol. gauchoverde your Idea is also possible to use but I am not a big fan of punching a bigger hole in the roof due to leak possibilities, I see the vent pipe as one big conduit and don't forget the connectors on the cables are another thing to consider . the cables could be cut to fit but I myself prefer not to do it due to the splice point being a point of failure (corrosion or splice failure)
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