Originally Posted by John Hagen
Can you provide details/pics on what you did to insulate the underbelly? My 2014 is not insulated and had many issues with the freeze early this year. I am going to ask the factory to do something but I am looking for good ideas that work.
We have used a special padded insulation which works only when you actually heating the inside part of your unit. Reflective double bubble insulation. I got it from Rona but I think you can get it in Home depot also. They come in a different roll sizes. It's about half inch thick. I insulated the side of the beam too and mine was 48 inch wide so I used aluminum tape to make it air tight. It's a lot of work, it took me two days as many wires are in the way I had to find a away to cut and fasten the insulation pad. If you do it watch out for moving parts and hoses for the slide out make sure they not going to get tangled. I also replaced all the screws to zinc as they used only zinc coated and most of them broke when I was trying to get them out( it was already rusted to the frame).
I do not have any pictures ... sorry. Regular insulation would not work as we have a big hole a side of the frames where the slides mechanisms come out on the side just over the two wheels and water can get in there and that would make the insulation wet and it would not serve any purpose. I'm still trying to find a seal for that also to make the underbelly water tight. Generally this trailer built very well just lacking of features as so called arctic insulation. So people can use it for all year around in my opinion. I have not tried it out in the cold weather yet but I'm sure it will improve some. The factory laid most of the water lines in the double floor system inside the heating channel so in wintertime I think it's safe when the furnace is running. I would have designed it a little different it would not cost that much more when you do it from the get go. It's just a big pain working on your back in a very limited space. I used a lot of tie raps also to fasten hanging wires to make it more neater. Also I used aluminum tape (made the hole smaller) where the waterlines going into the heat channel in the underbelly at the back of the heat channel. I find another place where the heat channel is cut to heat the underbelly behind the panel under the bathroom. This two places if the underbelly getting heat and have some insulation it's enough to get the floor warmer. Will see?