Burned up the gas valve - fixable?

[two_peases]

On the last day of our trip recently, we had a near disaster. My wife was showering and I was making breakfast outside. All of the sudden I could smell a weird smoky/electrical smell. I looked all around and finally found that the water heater flame had apparently melted all the wiring and some of the solenoids on the gas valve. I haven't looked yet, but I suspect that the burner may be plugged thanks to a family of mud daubers.

Can i just replace the crispy wiring and fire it up? The insulation completely melted off and the conductors were touching when I looked at it this morning.

What can I test across the solenoid terminals to see if it's still good?

I'd rather fix it for a few dollars instead of $50+ for a new valve.

[donanddona]

I can't say If each part is available to the public.

Good luck and let us knows how it go's.

[KyDan]

We'd like to see close up photos before making a call here but-- we've heard of
this happening once before. In that case they never found anything in the burner
tube. It seems like the burner just backfired and started burning outside rather
than inside. He also had fried wires but I don't know how much he had to replace.

I actually saw mine do that one time. Might have been the first or 2nd
start up. I was standing there with the door open when it fired. It sounded funny
and the burner tube started to smoke near the bottom end then it just quit.
The sound returned to normal and it stopped smoking.
I think it was burning right at the air gap rather than further down the tube.
It worried me but seemed to work normally after that.

You might be able to get parts on Ebay that even a dealer won't sell but it's all
on YOU. We are not recommending you work on a critical gas appliance without
proper license or training. Not saying I wouldn't do it in your place.... If the valve is
looking toasty, I'd replace it to be safe. If it sticks on even the hi temp cut out
wont shut it off. Don't skimp on a gas appliance repair!

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by two_peases

On the last day of our trip recently, we had a near disaster. My wife was showering and I was making breakfast outside. All of the sudden I could smell a weird smoky/electrical smell. I looked all around and finally found that the water heater flame had apparently melted all the wiring and some of the solenoids on the gas valve. I haven't looked yet, but I suspect that the burner may be plugged thanks to a family of mud daubers.

Can i just replace the crispy wiring and fire it up? The insulation completely melted off and the conductors were touching when I looked at it this morning.

What can I test across the solenoid terminals to see if it's still good?

I'd rather fix it for a few dollars instead of $50+ for a new valve.

If the solenoid is not melted, Just replace the burnt wires. If you use an ohm meter or continuity meter, you should be able to test that. Try going to ground with one probe and the other probe to each connector if it shows ground you will need to replace it. Other then that you will need to replace the wires themselves anyway and turn it on and see if it will work if not then you will know if it got damaged. If the terminals are still holding solid you might be okay, I don't know how distorted it got from the heat. Lucky you were out there....

[Filthy Beast]

I would replace the entire gas valve. Years ago when I was working HVAC, the insurance companies would no longer allow replacing parts in gas valves. For the safety of my family I would spend the extra money and be assured of a properly working valve.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Filthy Beast

I would replace the entire gas valve. Years ago when I was working HVAC, the insurance companies would no longer allow replacing parts in gas valves. For the safety of my family I would spend the extra money and be assured of a properly working valve.

Very good point....

[two_peases]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Very good point....

Looks like I'm investing in a new valve.

Thanks for the help guys!

[tomb]

Bought on Amazon

47.28

[URL="http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-161109-Gas-Valve/dp/B003G9FQSS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1433263852&sr=8-4&keywords=suburban+water+heater+parts"]

[Grampa Jim]

I fully agree with Filthy Beast. I was in the HVAC and appliance business for 40 years, and back in the 70's I could buy parts for the valves.....not available anymore,,,,thank you U. S. Government. But probably a good thing. BUT....consider this. Look at your air mixture slide of the venturi tube.....If it's too lean an air mixture, the flames will feather out and cause the situation you described. If the air is to rich,,,,it'll cause a fluttering noise that will cause a fire in the tube also. Make sure you have the air mixture right,,,,get experience to help you there,,,,the ramifications are too far reaching if you don't make sure. Replace the valve, it's not worth the gamble. I speak from 40 years of a learning curve.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by tomb

Bought on Amazon

47.28

[URL="http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-161109-Gas-Valve/dp/B003G9FQSS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1433263852&sr=8-4&keywords=suburban+water+heater+parts"]

Are you sure that is the correct Gas Valve. It's say's 10.5" I assume they mean pressure in a water column. To run propane you should be set to 11.5". Other then that you will soot your exchanger with a yellow flame. Make sure it is correct. I do think that the FR regulators are set at 11" or 11.5" in the water column. Call a gas company to make sure. Not sure if you can adjust that valve or not if you read the description it states that it will only work after a certain serial #. That tells me they made a change. I would call Suburban and give them your serial # and ask before you install it.

[Crockett]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Are you sure that is the correct Gas Valve. It's say's 10.5" I assume they mean pressure in a water column. To run propane you should be set to 11.5". Other then that you will soot your exchanger with a yellow flame. Make sure it is correct. I do think that the FR regulators are set at 11" or 11.5" in the water column. Call a gas company to make sure. Not sure if you can adjust that valve or not if you read the description it states that it will only work after a certain serial #. That tells me they made a change. I would call Suburban and give them your serial # and ask before you install it.

10.5 works. all the appliances have secondary regs now. you see one at the range, its a 10.5 as well. the gas valve in question has a 10.5 reg as well...

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Crockett

10.5 works. all the appliances have secondary regs now. you see one at the range, its a 10.5 as well. the gas valve in question has a 10.5 reg as well...

Sorry but a secondary regulator means squat. It depends on the primary. I do not have a secondary regulator on my furnace, W/H or Refer. You never run to regulators in a row. There is no reason to. Your gas valve servers that service. Unless your calling that a regulator?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Crockett

10.5 works. all the appliances have secondary regs now. you see one at the range, its a 10.5 as well. the gas valve in question has a 10.5 reg as well...

To regulate the propane pressure, your RV has a two stage propane regulator. This is a component that fits between the tank to the rest of the system, and it takes the fuel coming out of the tank at a high psi and brings it down to a manageable flow. The first stage lowers the pressure to around 10 to 15 psi from its much higher number, sometimes 250 or more. Then, the second stage takes it down to around 11 water column inches, which is the right flow for your RV’s appliances.

This statement was taken from the propane suppliers. Unless the OP serial # is what I posted from suburban it will not work correctly. Will it work yes, but your pressure that it is designed for will cause problems down the line. I have just went out and looked, I do not see any secondary regulator at any appliance. Please post a picture of this so I know where it is buried being all have a copper line exposed to the gas valve's only? Thank you I love to learn new things. Even my side kick BBQ there is no secondary regulator as you claim.

[Herk7769]

Personally, I would get it repaired at an authorized service center.

You were very lucky as you could have lost the camper (and perhaps a life).
Gas appliances are nothing to fool with if you are unsure of your skills in this arena.

[Crockett]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

To regulate the propane pressure, your RV has a two stage propane regulator. This is a component that fits between the tank to the rest of the system, and it takes the fuel coming out of the tank at a high psi and brings it down to a manageable flow. The first stage lowers the pressure to around 10 to 15 psi from its much higher number, sometimes 250 or more. Then, the second stage takes it down to around 11 water column inches, which is the right flow for your RV’s appliances.

your lp tank is stamped 240...your reg will not see 250 plus. pop your range top...see that little reg there? ive noticed a little reg built into later gas valves as well...

[camping baba]

If it would make you feel a little safer you can go to your local plumbing store and get some wire insulation . I have used it in propane service work many times when replacing glo bars in ovens and water heaters where the wires are close to the burners . the other post are correct you can not rebuild the gas valves . If it shows signs of fire it should be replaced .

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Crockett

your lp tank is stamped 240...your reg will not see 250 plus. pop your range top...see that little reg there? ive noticed a little reg built into later gas valves as well...

Tires are stamped with a max., but that doesn't mean they won't see more. Same with LP tanks.

[Grampa Jim]

Gone are the days when I could rebuild the gas valves......but I would check, double check, and triple check for leaks and performance before i collected my money and left the customer. I wouldn't have wanted a law suit or to kill somebody. I'm glad you can't get rebuild kits anymore. Just bite the bullet and replace it. BUT, if you aren't experienced with such things, have a professional service person do it. There's too much at risk. It's worth the extra dollar.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Grampa Jim

...Just bite the bullet and replace it. BUT, if you aren't experienced with such things, have a professional service person do it. There's too much at risk. It's worth the extra dollar.

X2

[Grampa Jim]

I like your attitude, Old Coot,,,,,could it be since we're both old coots? Off subject for a second>>>>>>>North Carolina, eh??? We had a great time in the Blue Ridge Mountains and Parkway in the summer and fall of 2008. Ya done well with that place over there, Old Coot.