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Old 09-05-2014, 04:19 AM   #1
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Can't get propane to flow after tanks being turned off.

I have always turned both propane tanks off between camping trips. This is our 4th., trailer, first problem with propane. When I VERY SLOWLY turn each tank on I can't get the flow of propane. At first I thought it was the safety feature on the tank valves but I can't turn them on any slower than I do. I have the two stage auto switch over valve/regulator, tanks are side by side. After tapping somewhat lightly on the regulator with the back of a wrench and turning the valve to the opposite tank, I get propane flow. I can then turn the valve to the original service tank and get propane flow where before no flow.
Has anyone else had a similar problem?
I am close to just replacing the regulator.

2014 Cedar Creek 34 RLSA-7
2015 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ SRW

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Old 09-05-2014, 06:19 AM   #2
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I have had several problems... My solution to mine was to turn on the valves and wait about 30 mins. before I try to use the LPG. So far it's perfect. The auto changeover valves hate me.

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Old 09-05-2014, 07:12 AM   #3
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Make sure that there are no appliances operational at the time you open your valves. A safety mechanism at the tanks prevent propane flow if there is not enough back pressure when 1st opening the valves. The fridge or water heater on gas, a forgotten stove burner , or if the furnace is trying to light will prevent enough back pressure, shutting the safety valve.

Check out the the 7th paragraph down, about 1/2 way through here:

Also, be sure that the pigtails are firmly connected to the tanks. Propane tank valves are designed that they will not free-flow if no hose is connected. A loose fitting may mirror the effect of no hose being connected.

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:26 AM   #4
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I had one bad pigtail. That's the hose that goes from the regulator to the tank. It had a stuck high flow preventer valve.
I replaced both pig tails and the next thing I know, I've got an auto switchover regulator that won't allow flow from one side.
Replaced THAT too.

Now my replacement will only switch from right to left but not left to right....
I hate these auto switchover regulators!!!

For now I just make sure I am using the right tank so if it goes MT the reg will switch to the left tank. Once I get it filled I swap the tanks so the "main" tank is the right one. (or is it the left one.... darn!) Did I mention I hate these "auto" regulators??
Dan & Rita D
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:10 AM   #5
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Is there such an animal as a propane tank switch that is not auto? I hate mine too.
There are 10 types of people in the world.
Those that know binary, and those that don't.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:10 AM   #6
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Yes its called an integral twin (two) stage regulator. You will also need an 1/4" female inverted flare tee for the inlet side so you can hook up your existing pigtails.
I can give part numbers if desired.
Jim & Debbie England
Do you have Gas? 2015 F350 6.2L CCLB DRW 4.30 axle. 2012 Yellowstone Ridgeline 34RLT Fifth Wheel
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:23 AM   #7
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From Iwas sent this in my email box today.

RV Daily Tips Issue 469. September 11, 2014 | RV Travel

RV Daily Tips Issue 469:

Here's a nightmare: It's a cold day, your rig is freezing and you're out of LP. So you refill your gas cylinders, hook them back up, and try lighting the furnace — with no success. It's like you never refilled those cursed LP tanks. What's the matter?

Gas valves on LP bottles can stick "shut" after refilling, even if the valve handle is opened to full. There are a couple of reasons, and usually it's a simple fix.

Here's how to figure out if your tank is acting out of sorts and not passing gas as it should. Assuming that your propane regulator is equipped for two cylinders and automatically switches over to another cylinder when one goes empty, it's easy to tell if your cylinder isn't opening as it should.

Leave the regulator lever pointed to the cylinder that still has LP in it and connect your "fresh" cylinder up. Now switch the lever over to the filled cylinder but leave the valve closed. The indicator flag on the regulator should show that cylinder as "empty." If it stays flagged as "OK," then light a burner on your stove to draw gas from the cylinders. Now the flag should indicate an "empty" for your recently refilled cylinder.

Slowly open the valve just a tiny bit. Now the indicator flag should show "OK." Proceed to open the cylinder valve completely. If the flag doesn't show "OK" when you gently open the valve, most likely the overfill protection device (OPD) safety valve is stuck closed.

To resolve the stuck valve, disconnect the cylinder from your regulator and firmly smack the bottom of the cylinder on the ground, jarring it. There's no need to be gentle about it — smack it hard. This will generally loosen the stuck OPD valve. Now repeat the hookup process as outlined above. This time the flag on the regulator should indicate "OK." Open the valve fully, and be sure to switch the regulator lever back to the other cylinder.

Rapidly opening the valve on a fresh cylinder often results in a stuck valve situation and can be prevented by the "slow and gentle" method of cracking the gas valve. If your regulator flag still shows your full cylinder as empty, repeat the "LP Cylinder Smack Down" routine again. If it still fails to respond, you'll need to lug it back to the LP dealer for help.

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