Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-17-2012, 02:23 PM   #21
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
We are on shore power and just replaced the battery. It is raining and will be tomorrow before I can check anything. I havnt checked the battery but everything is working fine.Except the furnace blowing out hot air.
__________________

__________________
cjoel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 02:55 PM   #22
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Concerning the battery. When you are on shore power there should be 13.7 or higher voltage at the battery(s). If not then your converter is not charging at high enough voltage to keep battery charged. Disconnect shore power and measure voltage at battery. It should read around 12.2-12.6 volts. If not then there may be a problem with the battery being able to accept a charge. When troubleshooting a lot of issues accepting that a new item is working correctly can get you into a lot of trouble. New does not always mean that it is good. It's just makes good sense to check an item before you accept that it is good.
JMTCW TeJay
Im heading to the store to buy something to check the battery .
__________________

__________________
cjoel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 04:05 PM   #23
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 25
Turned off shore power , checked my systems monitor it reads battery full.
__________________
cjoel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 05:23 PM   #24
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjoel View Post
Turned off shore power , checked my systems monitor it reads battery full.
Without restoring shore power run a DC appliance then check to make sure the top light goes out.

With a "full battery" the top light should not be lit as the surface charge from the 13.7 charging voltage can "hang around" for an hour without a load being placed on the battery.

What is the voltage after a load is placed on it?

Maybe the best indication is to fire up the furnace with just the battery and see where the lights go. If they drop quickly, it could be a corrosion problem with the wires going to the furnace (possibly at the main fuse junction).

OR

It could still be a problem inside the heater (sail switch).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	360426586.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	30.1 KB
ID:	22385   Click image for larger version

Name:	SAM_3972.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	44.5 KB
ID:	22386  
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 08:03 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Mark and Linda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
Been reading the threads, etc., downloaded the PDF file, learning while reading. The fuse in the top photo is for what? I have seen this one under my trailer when I was redoing the wiring insulation and tying things up. I also had to redo some bad connections on the tb.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
Mark and Linda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 08:45 PM   #26
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda View Post
Been reading the threads, etc., downloaded the PDF file, learning while reading. The fuse in the top photo is for what? I have seen this one under my trailer when I was redoing the wiring insulation and tying things up. I also had to redo some bad connections on the tb.
It is the main fuse between the battery and the converter.

Symptoms of this fuse opening are:

12VDC power when on shore power but not on battery alone.
Slides and landing gear work (that green pigtail fuse holder in the photo for example) on battery but nothing 12 volt in the camper works.

If the terminals on that fuse are corroded, the voltage drop can be substantial even if the battery is good.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 09:56 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Mark and Linda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
Now, I need to go out there tomorrow, crawl underneath and see what size, etc. and see if I have one in my stash of things. Thanks for the info on it.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
Mark and Linda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 10:22 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
caper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,973
We had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad board.
__________________
Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
caper is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 11:25 PM   #29
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,169
I think, like you, that it is in the furnace, but before I called in a high price repair guy, I would eliminate all the "cheap (I can do it) fixes.

Full DC voltage to the furnace means it is in the furnace and it will need to be removed to troubleshoot. This is not for the faint of heart.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 12:42 AM   #30
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
I appreciate Lou's suggestions. Actually you can do a solid amount of troubleshooting without taking the furnace out. If you ended up buying a multimeter, you can check voltages at the pins on the mother board.

If you get a multimeter, please share the make and model of your furnace. Just take the cover off, and you will be able to see the make and model.

A few people have mentioned the control board. If you have high enough propane flow and voltage is solidly above 10.5 volts with a little load, then it's a 95% chance it's the mother board. Those suggestions might be spot on. Nice thing is they are easily replaced without removal of the furnace, and you really don't need to give someone $100+ to replace it.

You can check the propane pressure with a manometer, but very few people have one. One or two people suggested turning the burners on your stove and see if the flames are nice and high. It's easy to just turn a couple burners on and assume it's fine. If the propane pressure isn't high enough, the gas valves aren't going to work. Frankly, changing the regulator is a ~$30 job and often it will fix the problem if it's a propane based issue.

Have a good one.

Lon Black
Colorado Camper Rental
__________________

__________________
COcamper41 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:21 PM.