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Old 12-18-2012, 12:55 AM   #31
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If you decide to pull it check out:
Wildcat fifth wheel rv heater removal - FAQ Copy
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
If you decide to pull it check out:
Wildcat fifth wheel rv heater removal - FAQ Copy

The ones you can take out from outside the trailer must be a breeze. Mine is buried under the fridge and It will be a bear to take it out. At this stage I am pretty sure it is the main board or the relay which is shot. I might change them both just not have to take it out again. Not looking forward to it to be honest.

Looks like OP's furnace has an internal problem .... Wishing him good luck !
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:04 AM   #33
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Ours is under the fridge also and only takes about 10 mins to remove. We had to remove the furnace in order to access the control panel. We were lucky and found a retired repair tech. that did repairs to help with his pension income. He only charged $25/hour. It cost us $150 to have the board replaced. $115 for the board and $35 labour. About a week after the board was replaced the fan stopped running. Found out that there are brushes on the fan. So if you do have the furnace out and get the board changed have them replace the brushes on the fan motor at the same time. It will not cost that much more for labour and the cost of the brushes are not expensive.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:24 PM   #34
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I have ckecked out everything I can without taking it out.I really think the gas line is stoped up ill check that tomorrow.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:29 PM   #35
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Just tried to start the furnace , took the side panel off to see what its doing . When it tries to ignite it lights and emediatly goes out. Because heat comes out the exaust for a second .
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:13 PM   #36
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Nice that I found this thread tonight after camping at FDR State Park this past weekend and learning something very valuable about RV furnaces and gas systems. Temps fell somewhat into the high twenty's Friday night. I observed one camper early Saturday morn removing the cover over his furnace and offered to help if I could. He said his furnace had worked flawlessly previously but would not fire up Friday night. We were checking everything we could think of to check when another camper came over to offer his help. He asked as to how much gas was in each bottle on the unit. The bottle the camper was using had been used for a couple of outings but showed green on the selector gauge. Our new helper suggested he change over to his known full bottle, purge the gas lines again and try the furnace. This worked. O.K., so now I'm all confused and asked for an explanation. The lower the ambient air temp, the lower the BTU rating of the gas within the bottle proportional to the pressure of the gas and outside ambient air temp. Well, I had to believe him as he had the furnace working now, but I also had to research this today online and found this to be true. IF, again IF--the amount of gas within an LP gas bottle is low, the ambient temp falls, then the actual BTU rating of the unburnt LP gas will also drop proportionally. Doing the range burner gas flame check will show this as low LP gas pressure, weak blue flame-almost a yellowish flame. The man proved this, in a way. He also told the camper that if he would wrap a blanket around his low tank, place a light bulb under that tank area to raise the temp of the tank just a few degrees, then this low tank just might work again until the tank gets cold again. Google "Atwood furnace service manual" and there is a good chart in there which explains this better.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:20 PM   #37
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One more post here on this subject, something I learned with my camper: I bought mine used everything on it was demonstrated by the seller including the furnace. Here in South Georgia it just doesn't get really cold and one small electric heater kept the unit cozy. Until--one weekend at Veteran's State Park in January when the temps really dipped. NO furnace and the electric heater was not so cozy anymore. I checked all breakers and fuses at the campsite and all were good, but no furnace. After coming home with more time to investigate I found that there was no 12vDC to the furnace although the fuse checked good. Further investigation and I found another 12vDC fuse just for the furnace under the camper at the front where there were other fuses and a wiring junction box. The fuse inside I had checked good was with a volt-meter, not with 12vDC on it. After replacing the fuse in the front the furnace worked just fine. I still do not understand why there is this fuse dedicated to the furnace at the front underside and also a dedicated fuse inside.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:14 PM   #38
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Unless I missed it somewhere in an earlier post the furnace mfg was never disclosed. I did have very similiar symtoms earlier this month where the blower would run and no heat (suburban). To make a long story short it ended up being the "limit switch". Basically is a relay the pops when the furnace is working to hard and gets to hot and shuts the furnace down. It is suppose to reset after a couple of minutes and the heating operation resumes without you knowing.

Let us know what the final outcome was of your fix....
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:02 AM   #39
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With reference to Thurman's post about someone saying the BTU value of LP changes with temperature, that's baloney. The BTU value is a physical property of the compound. It's the same per pound regardless of the temperature, and it's the same for it as a liquid (aka LP) and as a gas. The volume per pound changes with temperture and pressure changes, but the BTU's per pound does not.

The liquid in the tank has to evaporate into a gas for the system to use it. The heat to evaporate the LP comes from the surroundings, transferred through the surface area of the tank. When the surrounding temperature is low, such as well below freezing, and the usage is high, there may not be enough heat being transferred to the tank to evaporate the LP as fast as it is used, and the pressure would drop. Without looking at some tables and doing some calculations, I won't guess if this would ever be a problem with an RV, but I wouldn't expect it to be a problem until well below freezing. Some of you Canadians could comment on that. It is a consideration when recharging an A/C system with refrigerant, but look at the size of a can of refrigerant and the size of your LP tank. There is only a fraction of the surface area for heat transfer and the drawoff rate is many times faster than an RV appliance, so you have to heat the can in warm water to keep the pressure up.

The LP tank will be at a lower temperature than the surroundings as LP gas is drawn off and more LP liquid has to be evaporated. At times I have seen frost on an LP tank up to the LP liquid level.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:50 AM   #40
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  1. Heat Transfer

    • Pressurized tanks keep the propane in its liquid form by constantly holding high pressure. So even though the propane is above its natural point of liquidity, -44 degrees, it remains liquid in a tank. In a tank, the propane gets warmer or colder through the heat or cold transferred from the walls of the container. The pressure in the container isn't affected by the amount of liquid in it, but by the temperature surrounding it. Cold temperatures decrease the pressure in the propane tank. This causes a tank to get colder. As a result, it may freeze

    Low Flows

    • When a propane tank has very low pressure due to outside temperatures being low, it may be difficult for the gas to flow well. If the pressure is low enough, it's possible the gas won't work properly. This could be a serious problem for someone who depends on propane for heating.

    Gauge Malfunction

    • Extremely cold temperatures can cause the gauges on a propane tank to register incorrectly. The addition of a particular amount of fuel may register as less fuel in cold weather, simply because the volume is affected by the temperature. Delivery trucks compensate for these volume differences, but home tanks are not equipped for that kind of measurement. The volume of propane in cold weather will be lower than in warmer weather.

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