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Old 12-15-2012, 09:01 AM   #1
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Furnace problem

Went to bed last night with furnace working fine. During the night it stoped blowing out heat , any suggestions.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:08 AM   #2
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check the fuse for the blower
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:11 AM   #3
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The blower works , I think it is a gas issue but everything else works.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:49 PM   #4
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many years ago in the mid 70s i had a issue in our motorhome with no heat problem was the regulater iced up (at least thats the term the dlr said) i would try pouring warm water over the regulater and valve it really cant hurt anything. you dont say where your at but i hope its not to cold and you have an electric heater for plan "b"
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:17 PM   #5
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Are you running on shore power or battery? If your battery voltage is a little down, the blower will run slow and may not move enough volume of air to activate the sail switch.

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Old 12-15-2012, 07:33 PM   #6
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I am on shore power , it has been working fine. We do have heat strips and a electric fire place. I am in Lincolnton Ga. I only use the furnace during freezing temps.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #7
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I just turned it on it runs agout 5 minutes then shuts off. The blower works just dosnt blow out heat.The stove works , and the hot water heater works.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #8
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check the fuse for the blower
brianj

Do you know where the fuse is for the blower ???? Can you share please ?
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:52 PM   #9
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Yes I know where the fuse is I just checked it and it was fine.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:35 PM   #10
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The blower works , no heat comes out.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:41 PM   #11
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That happened with our camper during PDI- ended up being a bad controller board in the heater itself. Fortunately they were able to fix it on the spot. (And more fortunate that I used a PDI checklist that included checking the heat in mid-July!)
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:22 AM   #12
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I have a 8528 RKWS Diamond package and had the same problem. Took it back to the dealer and he found that the lines going from the tanks to the regulator where defective.He replaced them and no problems since. There is a safety device built in the lines to stop the flow of gas if there is a big leak in the line. He also said to turn tanks on slowly as this could set off the safety device in the lines . Hope this helps. Happy Camping
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:38 AM   #13
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Do you know where the fuse is for the blower ???? Can you share please ?
Can't be the blower fuse if the blower runs for 5 minutes.

light all the burners on the stove and keep them all on high.
Do they all have high blue flames? If so your propane is fine.
If not troubleshoot your propane system; not your heater.

If the flames are good; the problem is in the heater.

There is a "sail" switch in the outflow plenum that the blower pushes closed that routes power to the gas solenoid to open it to make fire. If that is gooped up with nicotine and/or dust, it won't close.

If your battery is low it won't spin the squirrel cage fan fast enough to close the switch.

If there is dust, grime, or a dead mouse in the fan cage on either side of the motor it will slow the motor enough to not close the sail switch.

control board or gas solenoid could have failed.

Since the thermostat fires the blower at all means the thermostat is OK.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:02 AM   #14
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my 2013 sv302 did the same thing last week ..stove would light, hot water would light, blower turn on could hear the furnace clicking but not light
(has a saftey feature that shuts it down after 5 min if it doesn't light) the service tech said it sounded like the control board but when i took it in it turned out to be a "stuck" regulator that wasn't letting it get enough LP they replaced it and now works better than ever
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:12 AM   #15
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my 2013 sv302 did the same thing last week ..stove would light, hot water would light, blower turn on could hear the furnace clicking but not light
(has a saftey feature that shuts it down after 5 min if it doesn't light) the service tech said it sounded like the control board but when i took it in it turned out to be a "stuck" regulator that wasn't letting it get enough LP they replaced it and now works better than ever
The stove trick actually uses more gas with all the burners lit than the water heater and you can see what they look like. There should be enough pressure coming from the regulator to have tall bright blue flames.

Short flames when all burners are on HIGH means a gas supply problem.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Can't be the blower fuse if the blower runs for 5 minutes.

light all the burners on the stove and keep them all on high.
Do they all have high blue flames? If so your propane is fine.
If not troubleshoot your propane system; not your heater.

If the flames are good; the problem is in the heater.

There is a "sail" switch in the outflow plenum that the blower pushes closed that routes power to the gas solenoid to open it to make fire. If that is gooped up with nicotine and/or dust, it won't close.

If your battery is low it won't spin the squirrel cage fan fast enough to close the switch.

If there is dust, grime, or a dead mouse in the fan cage on either side of the motor it will slow the motor enough to not close the sail switch.

control board or gas solenoid could have failed.

Since the thermostat fires the blower at all means the thermostat is OK.
Thanks I will check all this tomorrow . I light all the burners and they all had big blue flames.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:18 PM   #17
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Thanks I will check all this tomorrow . I light all the burners and they all had big blue flames.
Then your problem is a low battery or IN the heater.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #18
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The battery is a week old .
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:21 PM   #19
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The battery is a week old .
Does not mean its not dead.
7 days without being on a charger will kill a battery.
How many lights are on the display?
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:20 AM   #20
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Concerning the battery. When you are on shore power there should be 13.7 or higher voltage at the battery(s). If not then your converter is not charging at high enough voltage to keep battery charged. Disconnect shore power and measure voltage at battery. It should read around 12.2-12.6 volts. If not then there may be a problem with the battery being able to accept a charge. When troubleshooting a lot of issues accepting that a new item is working correctly can get you into a lot of trouble. New does not always mean that it is good. It's just makes good sense to check an item before you accept that it is good.
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