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Old 04-14-2014, 05:31 PM   #1
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Furnace Problem

While rinsing our black tanks yesterday the atmospheric pressure release valve or vacuum release valve (Google B&B Model 571) malfunctioned and sprayed lots of water in the bathroom cabinet where the valve is located. The problem is our furnace sits just below this area so it got soaked also. We killed shore power as quickly as possible and within about 30 seconds heard clicking noises coming from the furnace. The fan or blower motor kicked on but no heat. The blower/fan motor will not shut off unless the battery disconnect is engaged or the fuse is pulled.
Our trailer is a 2012 Sabre 32RCTS 5th wheel. The furnace is a Suburban SF-35FQ.
My guess is the power module board is toast. Is there a way to check the board to see if it is bad. If so, how hard is it to access/replace the board? I tried to remove the access door on the outside of the trailer but still felt resistance around the exhaust tubes after removing all the screws. Any secrets to getting the access door off?
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:10 PM   #2
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There are several switches and the circuit board in the furnace. One or all of them could have gotten wet. Generally the switches will be okay when dry - the circuit board is a maybe. I am not familiar with your trailer but you do not have to remove the outer exhaust to remove the furnace if the furnace will come out toward the inside. The circuit board is on the "exhaust" end of the furnace.

I think I would try and remove the furnace and make sure everything is dry and try it again (or wait a few days until you think it is dry). The circuit board is easy to replace once you can get to it.

If the fan runs that is somewhat of a good sign - the fan motor time delay and the fan motor is okay. When the fan runs the air it creates actuates a "sail" switch which lets the circuit know the fan is running and it is okay to light the furnace. Could be the sail or sail switch is not working.

Unfortunately you have to have the heater removed to check this stuff. The heater can be run on the bench if you have a 12VDC source and propane.

Here is alink for the manual on you r furnace - http://rv52.com/wp-content/uploads/2...n-Furnaces.pdf
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:24 PM   #3
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On our 12 Flagstaff 8528RKWS, I had to remove the exhaust from the furnace on the outside to get the furnace out to the inside when I re-wired the fan. It is an extremely tight fit and the furnace could not be moved enough to get it loose from the exhaust.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies cadman and O.C. Cadman, I appreciate you including the link for the furnace manual. I have the owners manual but don't think I had that particular one. It will be Thursday before I can get back to the storage lot to check the furnace. I'll cross my fingers that it will function properly after drying out for a couple of days.

I'm pretty sure replacing the board or sail switch would be a snap but I'm a little nervous about trying to remove the furnace mainly because I dont want to create a gas leak if I don't re-install it correctly.

O.C., just to clarify - Did you have to remove the exhause tubes from the outside of the unit in order to be able to move the furnace enough on the inside of the trailer to be able to re-wire it? I've got access to the furnace on the inside via an access panel in the basement but there isn't much wiggle room in there to say the least.

Thanks again for the help, I'll post an update later in the week.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:11 PM   #5
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Yes, I had to pull the exhaust tubes off from the outside. A lot of very careful prying to keep from scaring the side of the camper. Once the tubes were off, went inside, disconnected the gas line (real PITA as it is under the cook stove) and removed 3 or 4 screws and pulled the entire furnace out.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:26 PM   #6
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In reading some of you other posts O.C., I realize you have the patience of a saint whereas I'm more of a bull in a china closet. I'll have to practice some relaxation techniques before I start this project Thursday. Who knows, maybe I'll dodge a bullet and the thing will work right after drying out for a few days.
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:34 PM   #7
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Well, luck is on my side this time. My furnace works! I guess drying it out for a couple of days did the trick. Thanks again for the advice Cadman and O.C.

As a precaution, I will be replacing the plastic vacuum release valve with a brass one.
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:53 PM   #8
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Good to hear. Consider moving the whole mess.
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