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Old 08-28-2010, 02:48 PM   #11
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I replaced mine last year due to the exact same issue. mine is an 07, but we bought it in Jul. 06.

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Old 11-17-2010, 09:28 PM   #12
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18 psi single stage regulator

Yes the 18 psi regulator is difficult to locate; however if you use a 10 psi regulator for the single stage prior to the dual stage regulator it may impair the ability to have heat and propane heated hot water at the same time, when pulling from that bottle.

The 10 will work safely if in a pinch till an 18 psi regulator can be located.
BTW use the yellow tape, it holds up better to hydrocarbons than the white.

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Old 04-10-2011, 12:28 PM   #13
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Factory installed regulators

My factory installed Fairview regulator lasted apparently a whole 20 minutes with the 20,000 btu furnace on. Then it started to whistle like a banshee and the indicator showed red as if the tank was empty or an obstruction in the gas flow from the tank to the regulator.

Long story short, after much mental gymnastics I took my new TT back to the dealer and they upgraded my regulator from the factory-installed Fairview to a supposedly better quality Olympia. No more whistling and LP system is now working fine but switchover happened only last week so too soon to say the patient is definitely cured...however, I think I would agree with whoever it was that posted on here saying factory installed regulators are cheap "crap"...The Fairview sells for $19.99 retail while the Olympia is suppedley a $60 unit. Both do the same work, but I guess the more expensive one has a built-in obsolescence of more than 20 minutes... (take a close look at where each was built too; that may be a clue).

As for the sealing tape, the Fairview had white tape but now they used yellow tape on the new regulator. Installer even said that the white tape is illegal now because it is has failed too often.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:48 PM   #14
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you need a new one
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:25 AM   #15
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I am having the same problem with the replacement GR 630 regulator, that I had with the old one. Gas leaks thru the hole on the regulator. The new one only worked for about a year. Can you explain in more detail how you were able to open the stuck check valve and exactly where in the line it was located? I am thinking my problem may be the same thing you discovered.

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