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Old 07-30-2015, 04:46 AM   #1
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Low Propane Pressure

I have noticed my stove flames are really low like it's not getting full flow of propane. If I turn one on high it starts out on high then goes to low and if you want two burners on its even worse Would this be my regulator? Just filled both my tanks before I left.

Also if it's my regulator what's the best one to replace it with I may just Amazon prime next day air one to the camp ground.

And before I left I put two new pigtails from mr heater, trailer is only a few years old with less than like 15 trips (trips are not longer than a week)
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:23 AM   #2
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Sounds like the regulator. replace it with a like unit, i.e. if you have a two bottles and it automatically switches.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeks View Post
I have noticed my stove flames are really low like it's not getting full flow of propane. If I turn one on high it starts out on high then goes to low and if you want two burners on its even worse Would this be my regulator? Just filled both my tanks before I left.

Also if it's my regulator what's the best one to replace it with I may just Amazon prime next day air one to the camp ground.

And before I left I put two new pigtails from mr heater, trailer is only a few years old with less than like 15 trips (trips are not longer than a week)
Your information is a little sketchy at best. I get the sense that this is an outside stove, connected to a quick connect. In diagnosing Lp issues, you have two choices 1. You should be able to tell what the gas pressure is. Its measurment is given in inches of water column ( 11.5" W.C. if my memory is correct. You can find the exact spec.) measured downstream of the regulator with a U-tube manometer. If I've totally lost you, then 2. Replace regulator, usually preset. You can get manual switchover or auto.

I'm really curious though about the Mr. Heater pigtails. I assume this is the male quick disconnect. These I will share the insight of my experience with you. Maybe this will be applicable. Recently, did a bottle to bulk conversion on a Weber Q with one of these Mr. Heater pigtails from CW. Externally, looked exactly like the one that was on my rail mounted stove. It wouldn't go all the way into the female quick lp coupling on the trailer.

After looking at the opening end, I discovered that the stove's coupling had a counterbore in the opening approx. .200" deep and the new Mr. Heater coupling was flush to the end. The i.d. opening was the same.
There is a flow control safety valve in these female quick connects that a) fits inside that counter bore on the pigtail and b) when fully coupled, the depth of the counterbore depresses that valve allowing full flow of the lp, allows the locking mechanism of the coupling to engage and the ball valve lever to be rotated and initiating gas flow. I was able to modify the pigtail myself, not all are equally mechanical. Look at the pigtails online (Camco) and look for that counterbore.

BTW, next time be really specific what kind of unit and details. There's a whole bunch of really knowledgeable people on the thread willing to throw in their $0.02 in

Knowledge is Strength...George Orwell

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Old 08-03-2015, 12:25 AM   #4
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I should of spent more time on the post, but was laying in bed at 2am on my phone..

This is for propane for my fridge, stove, heater, and water heater, feed from the 2 5 gallon tanks on the front.

So took the time to dig into the problem, it was the Diaphragm. I took a Regulator off something else that i know was working and did a temporary setup to my propane line that feeds everything in my trailer and it worked perfect so, just went and got a new dual regulator from camping world, and all problems are fixed.. I may just buy another cheaper regulator on hand just in case this happens again..

Also i replaced the pigtails because one was leaking, and i figured might as well replace both of them.
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Old 08-03-2015, 02:30 AM   #5
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marshall excelcior autochangeover...had a new camco bleed through and I havent gotten over it yet...
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:59 PM   #6
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How ironic this is the first thread in this sub forum. Today I'm having the same issue. Wife couldn't get water to boil on the stove and water heater pilot light went out. I assume like yours, that it's the regulator.


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Old 09-16-2015, 07:02 PM   #7
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just a little addendum to a dead thread. seen a couple times where the supply hose from the reg to the manifold had a kink, either by bad routing or a slide out tray where it kinked in the closed position. to those who wished they had stopped tracking this thread etc...Im sorry
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:35 PM   #8
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I had the same problem. A few years back the gal where I filled my propane showed me a little trick and it works. Remove your propane tank. Take it to a safe place (center of your yard away from any possible flame) keep the on/off valve in the off position. There's a slotted bleed screw on the side of the tank valve. Loosen that screw and bleed some of the air that got mixed in with the propane off. Takes 10 or 15 seconds until you can see the propane coming out in a good fog, tighten the screw. I've even had to do this on my home BBQ grill. Fixes a no flame or low flame every time.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:15 AM   #9
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X2 with crockett on the marshal excel. regulator. Other stuff is poor copy knock off that will leave you cold in the winter.

Been there / done that three times.

Nothing but the best to stay warm.
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