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Old 12-06-2013, 10:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Sabresam1234 View Post
A few reports of control boards going bad lately on other RV forums. Of those that had this issue, non of them were using a surge protector. HINT!

Assuming you have a Suburban brand, this is a good video to help you troubleshoot.

For replacement control board, Look up Ignitor Board Index page
I have also read a few of those posts.
I have already had to change the board for my refrigerator, it works great now, maybe the furnace will need a new dinosaur board also.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:15 PM   #12
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This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:21 PM   #13
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Ok, I'll check that out too. Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DXSMac View Post
This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.
I'm not sure I understand how an "extra" vent causes blower motor strain to blow fuses.

Closing a vent "off" should do that not having to many.

:confused"


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Old 12-06-2013, 10:39 PM   #15
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Hate to throw cold water on this, but the blower fan cannot be moved by air being blown into the exhaust or inlet. These are ducted into the combustion chamber, not the heating chamber that the blower fan is connected to.
Aren't they separate impellers on a common shaft...why wouldn't blowing air into the intake or exhaust port not turn the common shaft?

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Old 12-06-2013, 11:28 PM   #16
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Aren't they separate impellers on a common shaft...why wouldn't blowing air into the intake or exhaust port not turn the common shaft?

Dave
After looking at the manual, I stand corrected Dave, sorry about that.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DXSMac
This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.
It could make sense. The more fluid a blower or pump is asked to deliver, the more horsepower thus more current is consumed. Not blocking a vent but a port on the blower housing, esp with no connection.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:42 PM   #18
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It could make sense. The more fluid a blower or pump is asked to deliver, the more horsepower thus more current is consumed. Not blocking a vent but a port on the blower housing, esp with no connection.
I guess I'm thinking about it differently.

Less resistance more vents.
More resistance less vents.

Trying blowing air through one straw then try blowing air through four straws which is easier?


Thoughts?

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Old 12-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #19
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It sounds to me that your board is the problem. When your stat turns on by temp. the blower has to start first, once the blower starts it opens your sail switch then once that is proven it will allow you ignitor to light. That's a safety built in. In order for you to have what you described I would say that you really have 2 problems. Being I said that it is very possible that your fan center is out (or as some call it your board). I would not close any registers as suggested being if you do the correct cfm will not be exhausted and cause limit problems.(over heating) Check to see if you have 12v at the modular should be red going in and a red going out to the blower. If you have your book yet(Suburban)on it check figure#5 0n page #5 if you do it's the blower more then likely. If you do not have your book here it is
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:54 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I'm not sure I understand how an "extra" vent causes blower motor strain to blow fuses. Closing a vent "off" should do that not having to many. :confused" Turbs
If a squirrel cage blower "over RMS's" at no load situation it will over amp a little....or at least an AC current one will. I would think brushless DC motors would not experience this because of voltage variations.
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