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Old 12-07-2013, 10:01 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
It sounds to me that your board is the problem. When your stat turns on by temp. the blower has to start first, once the blower starts it opens your sail switch then once that is proven it will allow you ignitor to light. That's a safety built in. In order for you to have what you described I would say that you really have 2 problems. Being I said that it is very possible that your fan center is out (or as some call it your board). I would not close any registers as suggested being if you do the correct cfm will not be exhausted and cause limit problems.(over heating) Check to see if you have 12v at the modular should be red going in and a red going out to the blower. If you have your book yet(Suburban)on it check figure#5 0n page #5 if you do it's the blower more then likely. If you do not have your book here it is
Ok, thanks. I will have to get it out today and get things checked out.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:31 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I guess I'm thinking about it differently.
Less resistance more vents.
More resistance less vents.
Trying blowing air through one straw then try blowing air through four straws which is easier?
Thoughts?
What say you glen gjurizick "lol"
Stick your hand over the hose on a shop vac - The motor speeds up.
Block the inlet on a leaf blower- the motor speeds up.
Stick your hand over the suction on a dust buster, the motor speeds up.

Blocking a vent could actually lower the amps on a furnace blower but
this is likely not the OPs problem.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
If a squirrel cage blower "over RMS's" at no load situation it will over amp a little....or at least an AC current one will. I would think brushless DC motors would not experience this because of voltage variations.
The problem that is caused is that your blower can not move the air out fast enough and it will cause the unit to over heat. To put it simply your limit is set by heat disk as the temp climbs from not blowing enough air over the heat exchanger the bimetal will bend and open shutting the furnace down. Your blower will not speed up to blow a fuse. If anything your cfm would be reduced because of the static pressure it now has to over come.(can not exhaust enough hot air) Which will create a hotter heat exchanger that the disk is connected on. it could be rated at 115 degrees or 135 it should be stamped on it. It's important to get the rated replacement. I never had a meter on one but with DC it should stay the same. The fuse should be rated at 10% over the full load motor amps. If a person keeps doing that I guarantee you that it will crack your heat exchanger.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:37 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Stick your hand over the hose on a shop vac - The motor speeds up.
Block the inlet on a leaf blower- the motor speeds up.
Stick your hand over the suction on a dust buster, the motor speeds up.

Blocking a vent could actually lower the amps on a furnace blower but
this is likely not the OPs problem.
On any squirrel cage fan, if you block an inlet, you 'unload' the fan and the speed increases and current draw will drop. Opening the fan inlets load the fan, decrease the speed and increases current draw. Blocking an outlet will increase the static pressure and increase the current draw.
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:07 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post

On any squirrel cage fan, if you block an inlet, you 'unload' the fan and the speed increases and current draw will drop. Opening the fan inlets load the fan, decrease the speed and increases current draw. Blocking an outlet will increase the static pressure and increase the current draw.
See old man I'm not so stupid!
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:44 AM   #26
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Back to the OPs problem....
The furnace "just clicks" and nothing else.
My furnace does not have separate fuse for fan motor and control board.
One fuse does it all.
If mine just clicked it would probably mean the fan relay was coming on
but the fan motor was not turning.
I'd expect to blow a fuse if the motor was locked up or blocked by wasp
nest.
As mentioned earlier it could be a dead spot on the blower motor but that's
pretty rare.
Could be bad relay or loose wire between relay and motor.

This one's gonna be hard to trouble shoot thru a keyboard.
I hope they have aux heat! It's pretty cold just about anywhere in North America right now!

I did see where Key West was in the 80s.....
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:08 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Back to the OPs problem....
The furnace "just clicks" and nothing else.
My furnace does not have separate fuse for fan motor and control board.
One fuse does it all.
If mine just clicked it would probably mean the fan relay was coming on
but the fan motor was not turning.
I'd expect to blow a fuse if the motor was locked up or blocked by wasp
nest.
As mentioned earlier it could be a dead spot on the blower motor but that's
pretty rare.
Could be bad relay or loose wire between relay and motor.

This one's gonna be hard to trouble shoot thru a keyboard.
I hope they have aux heat! It's pretty cold just about anywhere in North America right now!

I did see where Key West was in the 80s.....
Dan the op problem is that it is trying to light. The ignitor will not try unless the sail switch closes to prove the air flow. If his fan is not turning he should not be hearing any clicks on trying to light. That circuit has to close first as stated. it wired in series as the diagram shows. more then likely he will find a short or a bad modular. By the way did you get yours running yet? I'm assuming he not just hearing the stat click when turned to heat, sounded to me he was hearing the ignitor. Maybe we will hear if he gets heat I hope so Bad time to be without during this freaky weather pattern. If it is the stat he talking about(the Click) then the sub base could have gone out. He would just have to jumper RH to white to bypass that. I'm not sure what colors where used but that is normally the combination.
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:32 AM   #28
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This is the OPc.
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:35 AM   #29
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This is the OPc.
Where are you hearing the click? at the stat or the ignitor trying to lite 3 x's at the furnace? Or did you get it repaired?
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:36 AM   #30
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He said he hears a click.
Donno if it's the thermostat or the fan relay.
I agree it's not gonna try to light without the fan running.

I have dino board on order.
Shipped last week. Got a tracking # but USPS says "no information" when
I try to track it. Sheesh..... It'll come this week unless the mail truck gets
stuck! It's gonna be cold this week so I'll probably put it in the furnace
in my shop and not re-install until it warms up above freezing one day!
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