My furnace just clicks

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 02:26 PM

Hello, I have a 40' Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel there are a lot of posts on here about furnaces but none quite answer my question. My family have been living in our RV now for a few months, and everything has been pretty good. We are in Oklahoma and it is starting to get cold, our furnace has been working great until now all of a sudden it just quit working, I can here it click to try do something but nothing at all happens, no fan it just clicks. I have checked the regular things like Propane, fuse, etc. I even shut all the power down including the battery thinking that maybe it would reset or something. I was wondering if anyone new what for sure was wrong with it????

Joe_GA · 12-06-2013, 08:29 PM

Perhaps the following troubleshooting guide will help. If your furnace was working and now is not, I would make sure it was getting gas. Then check for obstructions or dirt on the burner or electrodes. Since you are hearing clicking sounds, it sounds like you are getting ignition. However, don't assume anything.
Marksrv.com rv furnace troubleshooting

caper · 12-06-2013, 08:38 PM

Sounds as if you have a fan problem. Can you access the fan? If you can try turning the fan 1/4 turn. After moving the fan try starting furnace again. If the furnace starts you have a dead spot of the fan motor. If you cannot access the fan motor you could try blowing compressed air into the furnace exhaust port. This might allow the fan to move from the dead spot if that is the problem.

Dave_Monica · 12-06-2013, 08:43 PM

If you don't have the fan running, nothing will happen. You may have to access the furnace fan to see if it's free to turn. If it is, you could then see if 12V power is reaching the fan.

Dave

SammySabre · 12-06-2013, 08:44 PM

A few reports of control boards going bad lately on other RV forums. Of those that had this issue, non of them were using a surge protector. HINT!

Assuming you have a Suburban brand, this is a good video to help you troubleshoot.

All Seasons Mobile RV Repair - Suburban SF-42 furnace test - YouTube

For replacement control board, Look up Ignitor Board Index page

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caper

Sounds as if you have a fan problem. Can you access the fan? If you can try turning the fan 1/4 turn. After moving the fan try starting furnace again. If the furnace starts you have a dead spot of the fan motor. If you cannot access the fan motor you could try blowing compressed air into the furnace exhaust port. This might allow the fan to move from the dead spot if that is the problem.

Ok, I think that I will try that tomorrow, and yes my fan is not accessible so I will blow in the furnace to make the fan move and try again. I do think that it is odd though that it was working fine and the next day it just quit.

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 09:12 PM

Thanks for all the info. I will start trouble shooting tomorrow and let you know if I find out what is wrong.

OldCoot · 12-06-2013, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swapplegate

Ok, I think that I will try that tomorrow, and yes my fan is not accessible so I will blow in the furnace to make the fan move and try again. I do think that it is odd though that it was working fine and the next day it just quit.

Hate to throw cold water on this, but the blower fan cannot be moved by air being blown into the exhaust or inlet. These are ducted into the combustion chamber, not the heating chamber that the blower fan is connected to.

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 09:45 PM

Oh, ok looks like I am just going to have to pull they but out probably

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swapplegate

Oh, ok looks like I am just going to have to pull they but out probably

Pull the unit out I mean.

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sabresam1234

A few reports of control boards going bad lately on other RV forums. Of those that had this issue, non of them were using a surge protector. HINT!

Assuming you have a Suburban brand, this is a good video to help you troubleshoot.

All Seasons Mobile RV Repair - Suburban SF-42 furnace test - YouTube

For replacement control board, Look up Ignitor Board Index page

I have also read a few of those posts.
I have already had to change the board for my refrigerator, it works great now, maybe the furnace will need a new dinosaur board also.

DXSMac · 12-06-2013, 10:15 PM

This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.

swapplegate · 12-06-2013, 10:21 PM

Ok, I'll check that out too. Thanks!

TURBS · 12-06-2013, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DXSMac

This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.

I'm not sure I understand how an "extra" vent causes blower motor strain to blow fuses.

Closing a vent "off" should do that not having to many.

:confused"

Turbs

Dave_Monica · 12-06-2013, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Hate to throw cold water on this, but the blower fan cannot be moved by air being blown into the exhaust or inlet. These are ducted into the combustion chamber, not the heating chamber that the blower fan is connected to.

Aren't they separate impellers on a common shaft...why wouldn't blowing air into the intake or exhaust port not turn the common shaft?

Dave

OldCoot · 12-06-2013, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

Aren't they separate impellers on a common shaft...why wouldn't blowing air into the intake or exhaust port not turn the common shaft?

Dave

After looking at the manual, I stand corrected Dave, sorry about that.

VinceU · 12-06-2013, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DXSMac

This is an off the wall solution but it happened in the first RV I ever owned, a 24 foot Fleetwood Jamboree.

I had that exact thing happen in that Fleetwood. Three times. Each time, the dealer said, "Loose wire." I finally screamed and stamped my feet and they found the cause. The issue was that there were four vents, and other RV's that size had only three. The fourth vent was causing the furnace (10 amps) to pull 12 amps, and go "poof." So, the dealer plugged one of the vents, and no problem since. Like I said, it's an off the wall solution, but use it if nothing else works.

It could make sense. The more fluid a blower or pump is asked to deliver, the more horsepower thus more current is consumed. Not blocking a vent but a port on the blower housing, esp with no connection.

TURBS · 12-06-2013, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VinceU

It could make sense. The more fluid a blower or pump is asked to deliver, the more horsepower thus more current is consumed. Not blocking a vent but a port on the blower housing, esp with no connection.

I guess I'm thinking about it differently.

Less resistance more vents.
More resistance less vents.

Trying blowing air through one straw then try blowing air through four straws which is easier?

Thoughts?

What say you glen gjurizick "lol"

Witch Doctor · 12-07-2013, 09:42 AM

It sounds to me that your board is the problem. When your stat turns on by temp. the blower has to start first, once the blower starts it opens your sail switch then once that is proven it will allow you ignitor to light. That's a safety built in. In order for you to have what you described I would say that you really have 2 problems. Being I said that it is very possible that your fan center is out (or as some call it your board). I would not close any registers as suggested being if you do the correct cfm will not be exhausted and cause limit problems.(over heating) Check to see if you have 12v at the modular should be red going in and a red going out to the blower. If you have your book yet(Suburban)on it check figure#5 0n page #5 if you do it's the blower more then likely. If you do not have your book here it is

Iwannacamp · 12-07-2013, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

I'm not sure I understand how an "extra" vent causes blower motor strain to blow fuses. Closing a vent "off" should do that not having to many. :confused" Turbs

If a squirrel cage blower "over RMS's" at no load situation it will over amp a little....or at least an AC current one will. I would think brushless DC motors would not experience this because of voltage variations.

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