My Propane is not Flowing.....

[lwieb]

Need some advice here....
Was getting ready for a short weekend out and was not able to get the fridge to fire off on Propane. Did the usual bleed at the stove but was not able to get it to light either. Urggg. Went on weekend and had a blast without it. Ran the fridge and hwh on electric and all was good.

A couple weeks later when I had time to fool with it I noticed that if I turned the valve on very slowly and only about a half turn, I could get the stove to light but with only about half flame. Fridge did not want to play at all..... If I turn the valve on normally I could hear a small click as if a check valve then nothing.... no gas at all. Cleared the pigtail and tried again turning the valve on very slowly again. Small noises of the gas flowing can be heard then and still only half flame at the stove with fridge still no go.

Filled both tanks on the weekend. Tried to explain it to the guy and he says it may have been air trapped in the tank and that his bleeding it off and filling it should correct my issue..... no cigar for him..... tried all again when I returned home with the same result.

From what I read in here I'm guessing maybe I should try a couple new pigtails? Really?? they go bad in only 5 years? Hmmm.

Any advice appreciated.

2012 Chaparral Lite 280RLS 5th Wheel

[Flybob]

If you had the tanks off, the lines are depressurized and empty. You need to turn valve on very slowly for first 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Wait 30 seconds after you hear first gas flowing then turn tank on as normal. If the lines are empty ( tank removed) and you turn the tank on quickly, a large amount of propane flows into the empty lines to pressurize them. This causes the open flow sensor in the tank to activate cutting off flow. Once activated, you need to shut of tank, disconnect, let sit for a few minutes, then try again turning on very slowly.

[NMWildcat]

Sounds like ya answered your own question. I would check the little fitting in the end of most pigtails that has a check valve in it. Some you can replace just the check valve or take it out entirely like some have done. They seem to go out pretty often. Next to check if that doesn't fix it is the regulator, then the tank. Good luck!

[lwieb]

Ok. Thanks. I'll try it again. I thought I did that. After turning it on slow for a half turn and hearing the flow tick and ping, etc. when I attempt to turn it all the way it kicks off. Perhaps I didn't wait a full 30 seconds though. I'll fool with it more this afternoon and see what I find.

[boondocking]

If you are opening the valves slowly and are experiencing the same thing with both tanks then it is more than likely the regulator that is defective.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Flybob

If you had the tanks off, the lines are depressurized and empty. You need to turn valve on very slowly for first 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Wait 30 seconds after you hear first gas flowing then turn tank on as normal. If the lines are empty ( tank removed) and you turn the tank on quickly, a large amount of propane flows into the empty lines to pressurize them. This causes the open flow sensor in the tank to activate cutting off flow. Once activated, you need to shut of tank, disconnect, let sit for a few minutes, then try again turning on very slowly.

If that exercise doesn't work, do this; disconnect the tank(s) turn them upside down and bang them on a piece of plywood laying flat on concrete. The sudden jarring motion will release the flow sensor. Sounds dangerous, but its not, because you are banging it on the protective collar/handle.

Resort to this procedure, if Flybobs' suggestion does not release the internal valve.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by boondocking

If you are opening the valves slowly and are experiencing the same thing with both tanks then it is more than likely the regulator that is defective.

X2. Both tanks triggering the internal flow valve at the same time does make it more likely its your regulator not operating properly.

[lwieb]

Thanks for all the feedback.
Starting another work week today, but I'll get back to the troubleshooting as soon as I can...
I'll try the upside down bang in case the valve in the tank is the culprit.

Inclined to agree with a bad regulator as both tanks behave the same.
Are they pretty standard? Can I order an RV propane regulator on amazon or do I need to be specific?

I'll get back on in a few days after I've had time to check it out more.

Thanks again.

[Bama Rambler]

You can order a Auto-changeover regulator from Amazon if you'd like. Here's a search for them.

Your 5th wheel will also have a second regulator at the off side cylinder, but you shouldn't need to replace that on unless you want to.

[KyDan]

I'm late to the party but here's some thoughts from my experience.

1. If you activate the high flow preventer in the tank I'm pretty sure you
can simply shut off the tank and wait a few seconds and try again.
I don't believe you have to disconnect it.

2. Yes a pig tail can go bad in 5 years! When one of mine went bad I bought
a pair and was surprised at the difference in flexibility. The old ones had really
gotten stiff compared to the new ones! The check valve in the pig tail can go bad at any age.

3. The camco regulator has a -tiny- red/green tell tale window and is harder
to see than some of the other brands. It's an OK regulator just hard to see
what color the "flag" is.

Good luck with your problem! Be careful and be sure your fittings are
tight and checked for leaks when you finish!!

[markb422]

Got home with my new mh and had the issue. The regulator was turned about 45 degrees. I turned it so upright and it worked. The next time I turned it on it was back to not working. The reg was still upright so I just gave it a little tap with the handle of a screw driver and heard a click and it started working. Guessing it is a sticky check in the regulator. Now I just leave it on all the time. Only seems to not work when it is shut off and turned back on.

[DrLewie]

I had a similar problem and an RV tech suggested getting new pig tails because the check valves sometimes go bad. Changed the pig tails and no problems since.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by DrLewie

I had a similar problem and an RV tech suggested getting new pig tails because the check valves sometimes go bad. Changed the pig tails and no problems since.

Yep, I got tired of replacing them so replaced the check valve with a straight through fitting. Problem solved.

[kluza2786]

If your refrigerator and range are in a slide-out, check to make sure that you don't have your propane lines pinched. I had the same issue, had already replaced the regulator, took it to the dealer for some other stuff to be done and had them check out the propane system. Turned out that the line had gotten pinched due to being on the kitchen slide-out.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Yep, I got tired of replacing them so replaced the check valve with a straight through fitting. Problem solved.

Wilcat SLOW down, you're living on the edge being so reckless. I think there is a federal bureau of anti-check valve tampering commission, that has cameras (or drones) looking for scofflaws like you. If I get asked about it, I'll deny any knowledge, so you can get a head start to the border.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Still Kickin

Wilcat SLOW down, you're living on the edge being so reckless. I think there is a federal bureau of anti-check valve tampering commission, that has cameras (or drones) looking for scofflaws like you. If I get asked about it, I'll deny any knowledge, so you can get a head start to the border.

It's okay..... I covered my propane lines and doors with camo tape so they are invisible. I also wear a tin foil hat when I work on my rig with a sonic screwdriver😁 The border is only 40 miles away on my escape route. Thanks for heads up!

[MMMH]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

It's okay..... I covered my propane lines and doors with camo tape so they are invisible. I also wear a tin foil hat when I work on my rig with a sonic screwdriver😁 The border is only 40 miles away on my escape route. Thanks for heads up!

Funny stuff, I like it. Starting with FlyBob all advice is correct in my experience, I've had it all happen! Bob's first post is usually the culprit. The OFPD doing it's job. Lines need to have a little pressure to prevent the system from shutting down. Go Slow.

[B36]

Propane is liquid. If not used enough the liquid will plug the hose. OR rot it. remove and replace hose is the quick answer..
Liquid turns to gas thru orifice (in order to burn)
Like gasoline liquid does not burn. only the vapors burn.
Next the output valve of supply may be not working. (Dirty)
Next The pressure reducer may be bad (regulator)

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by MMMH

....
Bob's first post is usually the culprit.

Poor Bob.

[walk_the_walk]

Originally Posted by lwieb

Thanks for all the feedback.
Starting another work week today, but I'll get back to the troubleshooting as soon as I can...
I'll try the upside down bang in case the valve in the tank is the culprit.

Inclined to agree with a bad regulator as both tanks behave the same.
Are they pretty standard? Can I order an RV propane regulator on amazon or do I need to be specific?

I'll get back on in a few days after I've had time to check it out more.

Thanks again.

We had lots of issues with our Suburban SF-30 furnace that your problem reminds me of. I replaced my standard issue dual tank regulator with a really nice adjustable one found on Amazon that is made in Italy. It is not 100% plug-n-play, as the bracket is different but the red/ green gauge on it actually works!
So, we love it, in spite of the $50 price, if my memory is correct. I wrote a long posting about my furnace with the phrase "the Agony and the Ecstasy", and I likely mentioned the exact model or Amazon ID number.

Most of the other dual pressure regulators are one size fits all and seem like clones. Camco made the prior one.
The problem with them is that they fail eventually, as they are typically exposed to outside air all the time, and the atmospheric reference pressure port is probably the villain. I'm guessing it rusts up or gunks up. ,That port can be found on the bottom of the main body of the regulator.

We dont use the propane side of our Dometic, but a few years ago, we also modded the main controller board, because we were not happy with the refrigerator temperature, and installed the after market refrigerator controller made by Dinosaur Electronics. Worth every penny just for the adjustable temp setting alone. But at around $100, its cheaper to replace the dual regulator first.

Ive never had to bang on a propane tank; maybe in colder climates thats a good tip, but your symptoms point to a bad regulator or main controller board.

When we had furnace propane problems, the stove would always light even at low pressures, once you bled off any initial air. And, to be 100% accurate, our furnace problem was initially fixed, as detailed in Installment #1, by replacing the regulator, but resurfaced, as detailed in the 2nd Installment, and ultimately turned out to be a much-needed venturi adjustment. Which I described and photographed, and never wish to do again, as long as I live...

Last but not least, I suggest you stand by the outside of the fridge when it tries to fire off. Is it trying to fire off 3 times and then locking out? Remove the white plastic cover ( watch out for wasps) and see if there is a wasp nest or mouse nest or dead frog in there, or anything restricting air flow.
Its easy to replace the regulator, too, and all you need is a small crescent wrench and a screwdriver. In a pinch, you can get one at a Super Walmart.