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Old 11-09-2016, 10:50 PM   #1
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Possible to bleed fridge of air?

Each time I don't use my toy hauler for a while and have the propane tanks off, it takes 2 cycles to get the fridge pilot to stay on. Before I start the fridge I run the stove so all burners light fully and let them run 15-30 seconds. It doesn't remove the air left in the line to the fridge

Many way to bleed that out first?
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:16 PM   #2
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I don't think so unless you are willing to loosen the copper connection to allow gas to flow. Does not sound like a good idea to me. What's wrong with 2 cycles? Can't be that long....
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Old 11-10-2016, 12:30 AM   #3
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I doubt if air is your problem. When the fridge is off the solenoid won't let air in your lines and air can't get in from your tank side. Maybe your orifice is slightly dirty or maybe you need to adjust your sparker closer. I had to adjust my fridge and my water heater. They had a 1/4" gap and needed a 1/8" gap.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:49 AM   #4
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If the fridge lights and runs properly after 2 cycles there is no need to adjust spark gap or clean the orifice. You don't want to loosen off the gas line each time, just continue with the 2 cycle bleeding.
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Old 11-10-2016, 12:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocking View Post
If the fridge lights and runs properly after 2 cycles there is no need to adjust spark gap or clean the orifice. You don't want to loosen off the gas line each time, just continue with the 2 cycle bleeding.
That's what one would think. Mine was sporadic. Fridge would go out for no reason while dry camping and sometimes while driving. After the spark adjustment on mine, it works perfect. It may not be the problem on his.
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:15 PM   #6
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How did a spark adjustment keep the fridge running?
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:10 PM   #7
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It'll tick tick tick through a whole cycle with occasional lights for 0.5 - 1.0 seconds and then I turn it off and back on and the second wave it lights. I just wish it was as easy as the stove in bleeding the air out. Oh well....
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:18 AM   #8
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How did a spark adjustment keep the fridge running?
If the gap is too close or too far, it will not light every time and lock out with the red light. A small breeze or high altitude affects it greatly. When I had problems with my water heater in Silverton Co, (9300') I was messing with the burner area and read somewhere on it that the gap should be 1/8". It was set at 1/4". After I adjusted it, the problem went away completely. I did the same thing to my Fridge and never had a problem again. The fridge would lock out while on the road. I don't think it blew out, I think it wouldn't light after it cycled off.

This may not be the OP's problem, but I think it's something to look at before anyone at the dealer gets a hold of it and holds it hostage for weeks
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:52 AM   #9
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Thanks Bob. i thought it was just or lighting.
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:53 PM   #10
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I had a SOB (some other brand) that did just like yours.
If the tanks were off for more than 2 weeks, the fridge wouldn't light no matter what LP appliance you fired up first, until the 2nd go round.
I searched high and low for a leak and never found any.
It worked that way from new and for 15 years before trading.
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