Propane leak

[Deeks]

Whenever i have the tank on the door side open i can smell propane, but the other side works like a champ, i tried soapy water but could not find any leak, i feel like i can smell it the most in the red spot below, was thinking about undoing it and just wrapping some plumbers tape and wrapping the fitting, only noticed the smell on the first trip this year, (Sat in the cold all winter) and when i was trying to find it the other day can turn it on and smell it pretty fast, i even switched tanks and still does it on the door side, If the tape doesnt fix it what what else could it be?

[OldCoot]

Doesn't look like any pipe dope or tape is on it. I'd remove all the connections and tape them all.

[R Whitlow]

Use tape rated for gas, last I got was yellow.

If that does not fix smell take camper by local gas serves co and get them to check with sniffer meter to find leak.

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[KyDan]

Hoses can leak at the crimp too.
I agree that all threaded connections can be removed and taped or
use LP safe pipe dope and re-tighten. I've found more than one threaded
fitting that needed another half or even a full turn. If you smell it,
it's leaking.

[ayotte]

The connection that is in the picture I believe is a tapered fit and should not need thread tape.

[D-maxx dave]

Be sure and snoop the rubber also. A pinhole is all it takes! Found out the hard way!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by ayotte

The connection that is in the picture I believe is a tapered fit and should not need thread tape.

All pipe, brass or steel, are tapered (with the exception of flare fittings) and need tape or some sealant.

[nuisance]

If you have been towing it and have just stopped it could be what happened to us a few years ago. We where on a trip to Colorado and was flagged down by 3 different cars saying that propane was leaking. SO of course we stopped and checked, smelled something that smelled like propane, checked and tightened all fittings the first two times. On the third time we shut off the propane completely. Went to a get gas and then we noticed that the truck smelled of "propane" what the????? Come to find out the gas in the tank had a higher octane ethanol blend then normal so the truck exhaust smelled like rotten eggs.......After a few more fillups the smell was gone

[SKnight]

I agree that it needs to be pulled apart and thread taped, but before you touch anything I'd find that leak first. A spray bottle of soapy water might show it, or as mentioned you can take it to a local gas company and they can sniff test it telling you exactly where it's leaking.

That area you indicated could be the hose crimp letting the hose leak, the hose itself, the fittings or even the regulator.

So first things first, I'd find the leak first and foremost.

[gasman6674]

All LP gas hoses have a "pricked" cover. All hose permeates the product following thru them some what. Think nitrogen and air in tires. The "pricks" allow the hose to breath and to stop the outer cover from bubbling. Sometimes it will get pricked to deep and actually leak. The crimped ends will also leak sometimes if they are not crimped to spec. I have had brand new hoses leak. Also DO NOT put tape or dope on the 1/4" inverted flare on the end of the pigtail or any flare for that matter as it will cause more issues than its worth.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by gasman6674

Also DO NOT put tape or dope on the 1/4" inverted flare on the end of the pigtail or any flare for that matter as it will cause more issues than its worth.

Not arguing with you, since given your name it's what you do, but why? What happens?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by SKnight

Not arguing with you, since given your name it's what you do, but why? What happens?

The seal is on the flare, not the threads, same as gas line or brake line on a car.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The seal is on the flare, not the threads, same as gas line or brake line on a car.

Ah, missed flare and for some reason interpreted pipe thread. I'm having one of those stressful days, ignore me.

[TURBS]

I'd check for a
Over tightened cracked fitting.
I had one when mine came home new.

TURBS

Sabre owners united!

[B and B]

I prefer pipe dope on propane fittings, just rub the stick around the threads. I use t tape on all water fittings and anode rods.

Brian

[wmtire]

The mod team has done a little straightening on this thread to help the OP. The off-topic posts can be found here, for those who wish to continue about that.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ses-59703.html

[Deeks]

Originally Posted by gasman6674

All LP gas hoses have a "pricked" cover. All hose permeates the product following thru them some what. Think nitrogen and air in tires. The "pricks" allow the hose to breath and to stop the outer cover from bubbling. Sometimes it will get pricked to deep and actually leak. The crimped ends will also leak sometimes if they are not crimped to spec. I have had brand new hoses leak. Also DO NOT put tape or dope on the 1/4" inverted flare on the end of the pigtail or any flare for that matter as it will cause more issues than its worth.

The 1/4" being the male end that goes into the regulator correct?

So would you just buy a new Pigtail hose then?

[gasman6674]

Yes. And if the pigtail is actually leaking yes

[Deeks]

Originally Posted by gasman6674

Yes. And if the pigtail is actually leaking yes

Is there a brand you find better than the other?

Was looking at

Mr. Heater 12" Propane Acme Flexible Pigtail Hose
OR
Camco 59053 12" Pigtail Propane Hose Connector

Or is there a one you like better than the 2 above?

[R Whitlow]

I got a steel braided one made up at the local propane store. I believe very strongly on upgrading to a better quality when replacing parts

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