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Old 03-23-2009, 11:29 PM   #11
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I am concerned for your and your family's safety. Could you please just assume the detector is functioning for this test? Get a bic lighter or a propane bottle with a torch tip. Blow some butane or propane into the detector and see if it alarms. My detector will alarm with carbon monoxide and other ionizable noxious gases. So, maybe your detector is fine and you do have either non-stoichiometric burn in the furnace or a CO leak into the forced air flow circuit.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:53 PM   #12
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I found a posting on another website that might help you out or at least give you a lead to talk to someone at CCI Controls:

Quote:
I contacted CCI Controls, the manufacturer of my Model 7770.2 Propane Gas Leak Detector today.

I explained to "Adrian" what was happening with my unit and that I have been able to silence the alarm by cycling the power to the unit.

He told me that the unit carries a 2 year warranty and that if I mail it in, they will, repair, recalibrate or replace it as needed. These units cost about $75 so I think I'll spend the $4 to mail it in.

I'll circle back with a final update once I send it in and get it back and installed.

Here's the info for anyone else who may search this forum sometime down the road and need to make contact with CCI:

CCI Controls, Inc.
323-560-6060, ext 121 or 123 (Customer Service)
Obtain RMA # for returns

Returns to:
5052 Cecelia Street
South Gate, CA 90280
USA
No other post's were made after this one...so maybe with a little luck, it's still covered? Good luck!

Joe
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Old 03-24-2009, 05:15 PM   #13
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Test

I will definately try that with a portable propane torch and let you know the results. Also note that I do have two Carbon Monoxide detectors in the camper, one of which shows a digital display of any amount measured. Neither of them went off at any time recently.

As far as the warranty, this item was made in 2005 so the 2 year warranty is already over. Thanks anyway! )
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:54 PM   #14
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Tested

I was able to test the LP detector and the alarm went off when I used a portable propane torch to send gas toward it.

What did you mean by non-stoichiometric burn ?
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by guysing View Post
I took another look at the "cubby hole" loacted behind the detector and under the fridge and noticed a large rectangular hole cut into the floor (which is about 2 inches thick with foam insulation) for routed wiring. The rectangle is about 3"x5". I am wondering if this and the other holes I see back there are allowing cold air to come in from the outside and affecting the operating temp of the detector?
If the unit could become cold enough that water condenses on its innards...well that might be your problem. Aught to plug those holes anyway, I ran through 2 cans of Great Stuff plugging all the leaks in my 5th wheel, warmer/cooler than it was (depending) and saves LP gas, too!
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:24 AM   #16
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What did you mean by non-stoichiometric burn ?
That test means your alarm is working right. Non-stoichiometric means burning is rich or lean - too much or too little combustion air. TOO LITTLE air can create CO (carbon monoxide) as the burn is incomplete and oxygen starved. Too much air usually kills the flame - not the case here I take it. The CO often leaks into the air that blows into the cabin space or leaks directly into the trailer. I don't know where your monitor is in relation to your heater but mine is 3 inches from the floor and 6 inches from the furnace. For good reason. CO is lethal. The monitors also alarm when they detect certain ionizable gases; like propane, butane, and that sort of stuff. This means a gas leak can also be detected. Solution is to clean the manifold, snoop for leaks, and patch holes in ducts. Snoop is made from a few drops of dishsoap into a dropper bottle, spray bottle or squirt gun (my choice). Fill with water and drip the solution on all the fittings from the tank to the furnace with the full propane tanks open. Don't stop there. Go down every gas line. Your alarm seems to be working. Without a doubt ventilate your trailer when you sleep! IMHO most or all trailers are drafty relative to site built homes. Even Stick and Mud homes breath. Trailers are just real fancy tents, Right? Seriously. These detectors are NOT oxygen meters. These monitors are NOT humidistats. These monitors do have a power cuircut that will chirp if not enough juice isn't there for it to work. My professional opinion is your alarm works and you have a leak. Murphy's law. Correlary #1 and #3. You know number one, and number three is just "the correct solution is the simplest solution and is easiest to identify and correct".
(SARCASM ON) I never heard of a trailer fire or CO death. (SARCASM OFF)

BE SAFE!
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:08 AM   #17
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turbopuppy; Excellent synapsis except for one thing. His problem is the LP gas detector. A completely separate unit from the CO detector. They may make combination units but I've never seen one. Placement recommendations would preclude a combo unit. CO is about the same weight as air and is usually contained in the hot air stream so the normal placement recommendation is on or near the roof where the CO rises with the hot air. Propane is heavier than air so the normal placement recommendation is near the floor.

I do agree that it appears that the propane detector is working correctly and most likely he does have a leak. I cannot explain why it only happens in cold weather, unless the cold is causing contraction (shrinkage) of lines/fittings just enough to allow a leak.

I can't completely rule out Wades cold condensation theory because I've witnessed condensation on electronics causing all sorts of wierd behavior.

I would definitely follow turbopuppy's recommendation of testing the system. I'd do a drop-pressure test as well as tighten all fittings in the system.
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:32 PM   #18
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My apologies. I assumed Guysing had the same monitor I do... [edit : I just checked - mine doesn't detect CO either. Man!] That would be an easier problem then. Pressure in these systems is very low. Like 5 psi, right? Pressure testing would be challenging. Condensation? Next time the alarm goes off check the humidity. I would just put a heat lamp on the alarm to drive off condensation and get some rest. I meant to suggest that last nite - sorry. Murphy's law. Correlary #2. If you fix it enough it will break. #4 If it isn't broke, dont fix it. Those fittings have a way of leaking when you torque them. Tighten the ones that bubble.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:24 PM   #19
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UPDATE on this problem 04-16-09

Howdy all,
I'm still working on this problem and have made some small advances forward on it. I thought I'd sahre them with you.

I have recently replaced the propane detector with an identical one. The model is a 7770.2 / Pretel 22 made by CCI. During this process I was advised by my local RV dealer that CCI is no longer in business. He advised that he did not know this either until he assisted in trying to determine the problem with me.

I also purchased a hand held propane detector from eBay. I paid a total of about $33 (with shipping) through an auction after losing several of them with the same seller.

With the gas supply turned on and without the furnace running I found no leaks using the portable detector.

With the furnace on operating I found a leak inside of the furnace chamber where the ducts are connected. It appears to be leaking from a gasket located around the metal piece that mounts the burner and electrode for the ignition.

I removed the burner and the gasket fell into several pieces. The dealer had 3 on his shelf however they were all cracked and falling apart as well. The material is obviously fragile. The part cost about $5. He has order more.

My dealer called Suburban, the manufacturer of the furnace and they advised that high temp silicone rubber can be used to seal this as well.

I am going to install a new gasket and use the silicone as well and then check again for a leak. By the way, with the furnace operating I only got the portable detector to go off once while allowing the air from a ducted vent blow into it even though it always goes off when placing the unit inside of the furnace while running.

I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:29 AM   #20
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Thanks for the update. Hopefully you've found your problem.

Good to know about the hi-temp silicone. I have a problem with mine lighting sometime. I'm sure it's the sail switch sticking because once it works it continues to work until it sits for a while. I'll be taking it apart this weekend while camping. I'll take a tube of RTV with me just in case I need it.
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