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Old 05-03-2011, 11:47 AM   #11
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Just a note of clarification. I have a DM 2652 refrigerator equipped with a control panel that has an on/off button and a button labeled “gas.” When the “gas” button is in the non-depressed position, the refrigerator operates only on gas (whether it is connected to shore power or not). When the “gas” button is depressed, the unit switches to the automatic mode and the “automatic” light is activated. In the automatic mode, it runs on electricity when connected to shore power and on gas when shore power is not connected. The bottom line is that the “gas” button must be in the depressed position (automatic mode) in order for the refrigerator to run on electricity when shore power is connected.

At least that is how my unit appears to be working.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:13 PM   #12
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Uh.....I believe in post #4 if you look back, it states that he fully understands the gas button's function.
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #13
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I need to add those glass fuses to my repair kit.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08flagvlite View Post
Hi jtant, just one more possibility that has happened to me on the fridge 110v side; there is a fuse outside under the refridgerator's plastic cover. When you open it up, there's another small cover over the control board to the left side. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover on, and you'll see 2 round glass fuses in there- One is for 12v operation; and the other is for 110v. Mine was doing fine on gas, but would not run on 110, and the service guy at the dealer showed me this little fuse- took him all of 3 minutes to fix it! However, it blew again after a few tries on and off, and he found the problem was a bad/loose ground wire or connection to the board, and it now has worked great ever since.
That may be your problem, too! Hope this gets it for you, as well. Randy
Now that's good information to have written down somewhere.
Thanks for sharing.

Bill
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:02 PM   #15
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08flagvlite,

I offered the clarification because of what herk7769 said in post 7. There he said:


If the "AUTO" button is "IN" the fridge is "ON"; as long as the "GAS" button is NOT pressed in.

In AUTO without the gas button pressed in (NORMAL OPERATING MODE) the unit will cool if AC and DC is available. If AC becomes "not available" for what ever reason, AND 12 VDC is available, the unit will ATTEMPT to cool via burning propane.”



On my model DM2652, there are two buttons on the control panel. One is the on/off button and the other is labeled “gas.” With my unit, the position of the “gas” button (misnamed in my opinion) determines whether or not the unit is in the automatic mode. Depressing the on/off button (turning the refrigerator on) and depressing the “gas” button sets the refrigerator in the automatic mode (in which case the automatic mode light comes on). When the “gas” button is in the non-depressed position, the light indicating automatic operation is not on and the refrigerator operates only with gas (even if it is connected to shore power).

Perhaps I am misreading what herk7769 said, but I understood him to be saying that the unit would be in the automatic mode if the “gas” button is not depressed (not “pressed in”). This is contrary to the way my unit operates. On mine, the so-called “gas” button must be depressed (“pressed in”) for it to operate automatically. A small symbol by the “gas” button shows it being in the non-depressed position. Presumably, this is designed to indicate that, if you want gas operation while you are connected to shore power, the button must be in the non-depressed position. Otherwise the heating unit will operate on AC.

In my opinion, the so-called “gas” button on my unit should more properly be called the “automatic” button. When it is depressed (normally interpreted as being “on”), it activates the automatic mode. Why any manufacturer would use misleading nomenclature that causes so much confusion (and not adequately explain the operation in the manual) is beyond me.
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08flagvlite
Hi jtant, just one more possibility that has happened to me on the fridge 110v side; there is a fuse outside under the refridgerator's plastic cover. When you open it up, there's another small cover over the control board to the left side. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover on, and you'll see 2 round glass fuses in there- One is for 12v operation; and the other is for 110v. Mine was doing fine on gas, but would not run on 110, and the service guy at the dealer showed me this little fuse- took him all of 3 minutes to fix it! However, it blew again after a few tries on and off, and he found the problem was a bad/loose ground wire or connection to the board, and it now has worked great ever since.
That may be your problem, too! Hope this gets it for you, as well. Randy
Fivecodys (Bill) is right. This kind of information along with herks help is the reason I read these boards. Thanks guys your helpful suggestions are just what I am looking for. You all are much appreciated.
Jtant
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:23 PM   #17
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Al,

I was going from memory (getting worse as time goes on ) and Frank M fixed up which buttons did what, so I did not comment further. The HOW it cools is quite correct and if the fridge is operating properly it should use AC if available and switch seamlessly to Gas if it is not.

Toggling the GAS button will force gas operation even if AC is available.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:52 AM   #18
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Al Fresco, I completely understand. Sometimes, all this technical mumbo- jumbo gets confusing! I know it does to me, at least. And, the gas button also seems to me like it should be the "auto" button- because once it is in the out position, which is GAS ON, it forces gas only operation, and the auto light goes off. WEIRD design! For "AUTO" to truly be automatic, with the gas button in (off), the system should in MY opinion AUTOmatically start up in electric mode; and IF for some other reason- no AC power, or a malfunction, such as a blown fuse or something, It would AUTOmatically revert to GAS mode, and try to fire up on that. That's what I think, at least. Randy
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:26 AM   #19
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OK, I went out and checked the camper for the "skinny" on the buttons.
My camper has a Dometic Frdige and has 2 buttons.
One is ON - OFF
One is GAS

When The left on is OUT - The entire fridge is OFF - Electric and gas mode

When the Left is IN - The entire fridge is - ON and the AUTO LIGHT is ON (When the GAS switch is IN as it should be ALL THE TIME - whether you have gas available or not)

IF you do NOT want to use AC - AT ALL - Press the GAS button once to "OUT" The AUTO light will go "OUT" and the Propane will flow and the gas will attempt to light. If it does not the "CHECK" light will come on.

If BOTH buttons are "IN" and power fails; the fridge will eventually call for "cold" and since there is no AC, will try to chill with gas. If the Propane is turned off or the propane does not light; the CHECK light will come on.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:56 PM   #20
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herk7769,

Thanks for the succinct and easily-understood description of the operation of your Dometic refrigerator. That is exactly how mine operates.

The thing I find odd and somewhat confusing about the operation is that, if you want the refrigerator to run exclusively on gas (even when hooked up to shore power), the button labeled “gas” has to be in the out (non-depressed) position. If I see an in/out type pushbutton switch on a wall labeled “light,” I would expect that if I pushed the button in, the light would come on. However, with the Dometic refrigerator set up, when hooked to shore power, pushing the “gas” button in effectively turns the gas operation off and switches the unit to the automatic mode which activates electric operation. As I commented above, it seems the “gas” button should more appropriately be called the “automatic mode” button. But then who am I to argue with the geniuses who design such things?
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