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Old 03-15-2014, 06:33 AM   #1
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Two Strange LPG Problems

'11 8526RKWS -- Gas won't feed from driver-side bottle. Changeover valve indicates all green for curbside, but only 2/3's green for driver side. Switch the tanks, and it feeds fine so there is no problem with the tank AND the oven won't stay on with either bottle. Pilot lights, oven goes on; but it goes off within 15 minutes. Temp adjustment has no impact on temps as flame remains the same (high) until it goes out. Any ideas?
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:56 AM   #2
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Sounds like a gas valve problem in the stove.
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:52 AM   #3
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Get a new auto changeover regulator because that's most likely why you
can't get gas from one tank.
After replacing the reg. you can test the oven again. Might be OK might
still have an oven problem.
Fix one thing at a time and proceed.... my 2Ę
Good Luck!
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:07 AM   #4
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is the oven the only thing not working properly? Either way, changeover valve/regulator is the most likely issue.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:12 AM   #5
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Had the same problem in FL this year, it was caused by the regulator on the drivers side, Not the swithover regulator which I changed first with no results.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Painting_Teacher View Post
'11 8526RKWS -- Gas won't feed from driver-side bottle. Changeover valve indicates all green for curbside, but only 2/3's green for driver side. Switch the tanks, and it feeds fine so there is no problem with the tank AND the oven won't stay on with either bottle. Pilot lights, oven goes on; but it goes off within 15 minutes. Temp adjustment has no impact on temps as flame remains the same (high) until it goes out. Any ideas?
Are you sure your problem isn't the bottle over flow preventer? Recommend turning all gas OFF and then disconnect the pig tail from the tanks.

Connect them again and then very very very slowly open the DS tank, if it's quiet you will bne able to hear the line filling. Then you can open it all the way.

IMHO the lines are empty and when the DS is tring to fill it the over flow prventer in the tank prevents it.

Good Luck
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Had the same problem in FL this year, it was caused by the regulator on the drivers side, Not the swithover regulator which I changed first with no results.
You have more than one regulator on your rig??

My switchover regulator went bad -- low flow from one side and it
wouldn't switch sides. Replaced the tank pig tail hoses as those can cause
problems too but didn't fix my problem.

Bought a new reg online and it works sort of-- it will switch from right to
left but not from left to right so I always make sure the "main tank" is the
right side. Also my new one has an itty bitty tell tale window that is so
small and hard to see I practically need a flashlite to see the color even
in daylight.
Lesson-- buy a good one from a dealer and LOOK at it first. If the window
is small- move on!

The oven problem from Painting teacher might go away with a new
regulator or not.
Sounds like the oven is heating the 1st cycle but the pilot is not staying
on and when it reaches temp it shuts off the burner and then doesn't
come back on due to no pilot?
FYI- the oven burner does not go hi and low like a stove top burner.
The oven is on or off period. It cycles much like a furnace to keep the
set temp but it needs a constant pilot to do that. (Unless they have a
dsi electronic spark and then I have no idea what's going on.......)
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:57 PM   #8
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My stove (Suburban) would go out after it reached temp,(10-15 mins) Pilot light was going out when the temp was set over 325 and under 425 (it would relight off main burner over 425 and work fine) the main burner was keeping the thermocouple open, but once it hit the temp and the main burner cut out, that was it. entire control valve assembly was replaced. (under warranty). the new one, the pilot light stays lit the entire time the stove is in operation.


It was a LOOONG wait for the lasagna that night.
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:15 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ditchooker View Post
My stove (Suburban) would go out after it reached temp,(10-15 mins) Pilot light was going out when the temp was set over 325 and under 425 (it would relight off main burner over 425 and work fine) the main burner was keeping the thermocouple open, but once it hit the temp and the main burner cut out, that was it. entire control valve assembly was replaced. (under warranty). the new one, the pilot light stays lit the entire time the stove is in operation.


It was a LOOONG wait for the lasagna that night.
bet it did take along time to cook anything, glad to hear your back in business again, I really do not understand why they do not make that DSI. Thermocouples are very old school now a days. Even with DSI you would still have the same problem. It's just a pain to light to begin with. Everytime we use our oven and that's quite a bit, I hear my name called for help......
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Everytime we use our oven and that's quite a bit, I hear my name called for help......
Ditto!
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