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Old 05-22-2018, 12:59 PM   #1
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Wildwood Lodge 4092BFL Furnace stops working during the night

The issue I'm having is that my furnace seems to stop working in the middle of the night. Everything starts fine, it brings things up to temperature, kicks back in a few times, and then at some point overnight it just stops working and everything gets very cold.

I noticed this last season but assumed it was because one of my propane tanks was low. I brought both tanks into town and filled them, but by then it was warmer and didn't really use the furnace any more than that.

Opened everything up this past weekend, and on Saturday night things started getting cool so I turned on the furnace and set it at 72. It fired right up and ran fine. After a few hours we went off to bed and I heard the furnace kick on at least once before I fell asleep. I woke up at around 3am and from the temperature sensor I've got the temperature inside was down to 55 degrees! I assumed I had ran out of propane so I got dressed and went outside. The active tank was getting low but definitely not empty, but I switched it over to the reserve tank just in case which is completely full. I went back inside, power cycled the furnace and it clicked on and blew nothing but cool air for about 30s and then shut off.

I've read a few posts on here of people having similar issues, most of the troubleshooting was related to battery power and the furnace system disabling itself after not igniting after 3 attempts. I'm plugged in and not running off battery. I also couldn't find somebody coming back afterwards to post what the resolution to the issue was.

I'm hoping somebody here who's had a similar issue can post up and let me know what the fix was.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:03 PM   #2
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Do you have a digital thermostat, on our unit which is a different brand from yours, it has a timer mode and that was affecting how our heating and a/c system was running until I finally cleared the program.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:05 PM   #3
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I should mention a few of the 3am trouble shooting things I tried:
I switched the full tank on to the other line to rule out a potential bad check valve in the line
I also hooked up my BBQ tank to rule out the second tank possibly having a bad valve and not putting out enough pressure.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dblr View Post
Do you have a digital thermostat, on our unit which is a different brand from yours, it has a timer mode and that was affecting how our heating and a/c system was running until I finally cleared the program.
It is digital but doesn't have any sort of timer option.

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Old 05-22-2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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Ok, didn't think mine did either until I ran thru all the modes. Sorry can not be of more help, good luck.
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Old 05-23-2018, 03:31 PM   #6
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Ok, didn't think mine did either until I ran thru all the modes. Sorry can not be of more help, good luck.
No worries, I appreciate the time none the less.
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Old 05-23-2018, 06:01 PM   #7
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Please post the fix when you figure it out, as it might help someone else down the road, good luck.
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:37 AM   #8
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Al

A couple of possibilities, not sure where u live, is the temperature outside going down close to 32degrees F. If so you might have filled your propane tanks in very southern regions with butane. Butane is sold as propane in some southern regions, very similar to summer and winter fuel, butane will not vaporize below 32 so it would seem like u are out of propane, as soon as the outside temperature goes up, it will work fine. A very hard one for an Rv tech to figure out as usually when u get it to the shop it is warmer. A second, but not as likely, propane does develop a residue in the lines sometimes.. it is almost like molasses and as the temperature drops, it becomes stiff enough in the lines, so that the furnace is starved for fuel, Light a stove top burner and then turn the furnace on, watch the stove top burner, if the flame shrinks quite a bit, you have a fuel problem, emulator, etc.
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:53 AM   #9
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Are you boondocking? I ran into this because my battery didn’t have enough power. I replaced my standalone 12v with two interstate 6v’s from Costco. That resolved my issue immediately.
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Old 05-30-2018, 09:14 AM   #10
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I would replace the heat limit switch. You will never prove it going bad, but if it is flaky and the bimetallic is not working properly, it will shut the furnace down at a heat level it was not designed for. My heat sensor switch flat quit on a brand new furnace after two nights of use. Of course it's at the back of the furnace and I had to pull the hole thing out, but with an ohm meter it measured open while still connected. Soon as I loosed the screws to replace it, it closed. If it opens there is no more furnace operation until it cools. Just a suggestion, but it's the only thing other then the control board that I can think of the could cause a flaky furnace operation.
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