Anode rod removal

[B47]

And you are probably not the only one who hasn't replaced his anode rod for one reason or another.

I guess that home builders just don't care or realize that an anode rod needs to be changed every so often or perhaps the water heater manufacturers want them to be hard to remove so they can sell more water heaters.

I lived in Lubbock, Texas for 10 years and twice when I returned home, I saw water running out of my garage. The water heaters were in a closet in the garage. Lubbock has very hard water and the water heater bottoms would rust out spilling all the water.

I did not know that anode rods were made in segments - should make removal/installion a little easier if you can remove them at all.

[Herk7769]

Flexible Combo Magnesium Anode: What it is and what it does

Here is where to buy it. Getting the old one out is the hardest part.

[B47]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Flexible Combo Magnesium Anode: What it is and what it does

Here is where to buy it. Getting the old one out is the hardest part.

I never knew they were made in segments Of course I always had to replace my WH anyway so why would I?

Roger that on getting the old one out!

[mdrucker]

Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper

I'm beginning to think I am the only one that removes mine after every trip. It's always how I have drained the water heater.

I guess on the positive side.... I have never had a rusted and stuck rod.

Mine comes out after every trip also.

[Herk7769]

Nothing wrong with removing it for draining as long as it goes back in afterwards.
Without it being there the area around the thread holes (for all the penetrations; like the water pipes and pressure valve) does not have porcelain on it. rust will form there pretty quickly with air and moisture. Better for the corrosion to form on the anode like it is supposed to, IMO.

Draining through the drain port vice the low point drains keeps chunks of calcium and anode material out of the plumbing.

[Dave_Monica]

My only comment in regards to removing it after everytime is the potential to eventually damage the threads on the fitting on the WH., especially if the anode/plug is overtightened. That's the other reason for using teflon tape or pipe dope...seals without tightening the *#@! out of it.

Dave

[ParkManCan]

We took ours out after the first season and barely any difference from new. 2011 Wildwood 37bhss2q and it took the common 1 1/16" socket and 1/2' drive ratchet. Teflon tape and came out no problem.

[B47]

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

My only comment in regards to removing it after everytime is the potential to eventually damage the threads on the fitting on the WH., especially if the anode/plug is overtightened. That's the other reason for using teflon tape or pipe dope...seals without tightening the *#@! out of it.

Dave

I agree - you could wear the threads out over time from repeated use.

[schwef]

I just went through the same problem last night in preparation for a hard freeze tonight. I rushed out to the hardware store and purchased a 1 1/16 hex socket and a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. A little force with the socket wrench and it popped right out. I used a shop vac to pull out the extra water. Without doubt you need to pull the plug or you need to run the water out through the tap and use a pump to fill it with antifreeze. That is many gallons of antifreeze

[Dave_Monica]

Originally Posted by schwef

Without doubt you need to pull the plug or you need to run the water out through the tap and use a pump to fill it with antifreeze. That is many gallons of antifreeze

You never put antifreeze in the WH. You shut the valves on the supply and discharge lines and open the valve on the bypass between the inlet/outlet.

Dave

[SpringerPop]

A common size on a medium-duty-truck lug-nut "star wrench" is 1-1/16". It's what I used today to remove my 1999 water heater's anode rod. Since the anode was at "zero material", I suspect it had never-before been serviced. The tank had lots of chunks of white crud, which mostly washed out with a wand made for that purpose.

I got out a 3/4" pipe tap, and with the aid of a 13/16" twelve-point socket, extension, and drive was able to "chase" the threads in the tank. Didn't really cut the threads any deeper, but got rid of most of the rust in them.

A few layers of thin teflon tape on the new anode rod's threads and it went back into the tank with ease. It didn't require a lot of torque to effectively seal against the pressure.

If you're having problems removing an old rod, I highly recommend finding a cross-star lug wrench that has a 1-1/16" size. You WILL get it out.



Pop

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

You never put antifreeze in the WH. You shut the valves on the supply and discharge lines and open the valve on the bypass between the inlet/outlet.

Dave

Ditto! On the back of the water heater is a pipe arrangement with valves in it.
Look for something like:

These are set up for use. To bypass turn all valves 90 degrees clockwise.

[Cincy6]

Thanks for all the replies. I used a breaker bar and with a little force it came off without any damage. After the water is drained should I leave the rod off through the winter or put it back in?

[MotocrossCamper]

In my opinion i would clean up any rusty stuff the best you can, Teflon tape it, and put it back in for the winter. I think you run a bigger chance of rust building up if you leave it out.

I also disagree with anyone that says removing it after every trip will damage the threads. Those are pretty heavy duty thread cuts. Almost impossible to cross thread if you pay attention. I have been removing mine after every trip since I had a pop up in 1992. For the last 6 years since my kid has been racing we use it every weekend from march to November. That's approximately 220 trips in the motorhome and it still works like brand new plus I have no rust build up and I never need a breaker bar.