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Old 10-11-2012, 11:52 PM   #21
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And you are probably not the only one who hasn't replaced his anode rod for one reason or another.

I guess that home builders just don't care or realize that an anode rod needs to be changed every so often or perhaps the water heater manufacturers want them to be hard to remove so they can sell more water heaters.

I lived in Lubbock, Texas for 10 years and twice when I returned home, I saw water running out of my garage. The water heaters were in a closet in the garage. Lubbock has very hard water and the water heater bottoms would rust out spilling all the water.

I did not know that anode rods were made in segments - should make removal/installion a little easier if you can remove them at all.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:55 AM   #22
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Flexible Combo Magnesium Anode: What it is and what it does

Here is where to buy it. Getting the old one out is the hardest part.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Flexible Combo Magnesium Anode: What it is and what it does

Here is where to buy it. Getting the old one out is the hardest part.
I never knew they were made in segments Of course I always had to replace my WH anyway so why would I?

Roger that on getting the old one out!
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:45 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper View Post
I'm beginning to think I am the only one that removes mine after every trip. It's always how I have drained the water heater.

I guess on the positive side.... I have never had a rusted and stuck rod.
Mine comes out after every trip also.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:12 AM   #25
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Nothing wrong with removing it for draining as long as it goes back in afterwards.
Without it being there the area around the thread holes (for all the penetrations; like the water pipes and pressure valve) does not have porcelain on it. rust will form there pretty quickly with air and moisture. Better for the corrosion to form on the anode like it is supposed to, IMO.

Draining through the drain port vice the low point drains keeps chunks of calcium and anode material out of the plumbing.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:42 PM   #26
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My only comment in regards to removing it after everytime is the potential to eventually damage the threads on the fitting on the WH., especially if the anode/plug is overtightened. That's the other reason for using teflon tape or pipe dope...seals without tightening the *#@! out of it.

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Old 10-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #27
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We took ours out after the first season and barely any difference from new. 2011 Wildwood 37bhss2q and it took the common 1 1/16" socket and 1/2' drive ratchet. Teflon tape and came out no problem.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:39 PM   #28
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My only comment in regards to removing it after everytime is the potential to eventually damage the threads on the fitting on the WH., especially if the anode/plug is overtightened. That's the other reason for using teflon tape or pipe dope...seals without tightening the *#@! out of it.

Dave
I agree - you could wear the threads out over time from repeated use.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:13 PM   #29
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I just went through the same problem last night in preparation for a hard freeze tonight. I rushed out to the hardware store and purchased a 1 1/16 hex socket and a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. A little force with the socket wrench and it popped right out. I used a shop vac to pull out the extra water. Without doubt you need to pull the plug or you need to run the water out through the tap and use a pump to fill it with antifreeze. That is many gallons of antifreeze
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:33 PM   #30
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Without doubt you need to pull the plug or you need to run the water out through the tap and use a pump to fill it with antifreeze. That is many gallons of antifreeze
You never put antifreeze in the WH. You shut the valves on the supply and discharge lines and open the valve on the bypass between the inlet/outlet.

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