Anode rod removal

[Cincy6]

Any sugestions on removing annode rod on 2012 Roo19 without damaging it? It is on from factory extremely tight and rusted.

I am afraid to apply too much pressure on the wrench for fear it might do damage. I also applied wd-40 and still stuck.

Also, if I decide not to try to get it off, is there any down side to leaving it on all winter? How can I make sure iWH is drained if I don't remove it? Do I just release pressure valve? I have already bypassed and winterized the lines, but want to be sure there is no water left in heater.
Thanks

[oldprof1]

WD 40 stands for Water Displacement formula attempt #40. It is not penetrating oil. Get a good grade PENETRATING oil. soak the connection leave overnight soak again. Using the correct size socket remove the Anode. You might find an impact gun makes the job easy. Possibly you can rent one at a tool rental store or even places like Home Depot.

On the subject of leaving it. The longer it stay's in the harder it will be to remove. Now you have the same job, more difficult at a later time. Eventually the anode has to be replaced. If you don't the HW tank will corrode out and you will be faced with the expense of replacing the tank. Good luck!

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Cincy6

Any sugestions on removing annode rod on 2012 Roo19 without damaging it? It is on from factory extremely tight and rusted.

I am afraid to apply too much pressure on the wrench for fear it might do damage. I also applied wd-40 and still stuck.

Also, if I decide not to try to get it off, is there any down side to leaving it on all winter? How can I make sure iWH is drained if I don't remove it? Do I just release pressure valve? I have already bypassed and winterized the lines, but want to be sure there is no water left in heater.
Thanks

You have to remove anode rod to drain the tank.
Put some muscle behind it.
1/2" breaker bar will get it loose.
Little bit of heat from a propane torch might help.


Turbs

[Auto4]

Try tapping the bolt "lightly" with a hammer. Sometimes that will break free the rust on the threads.

The only easy way to drain the hot water tank is by removing that bolt. If you don't drain the tank it will be damaged when the water freezes.

[Dave_Monica]

It's a NPT fitting, 3/4" I think. It has to have pipe thread sealant or teflon tape or it would have leaked. The fact that it has either, will make removal easier...you just have to show it who's boss!

I've taken pipe thread fittings apart that have been 20+ years old...shouldn't be a problem with a 1 year old WH. A 6 point socket of the proper size is the only thing that you should use.

Dave

[MotocrossCamper]

I'm beginning to think I am the only one that removes mine after every trip. It's always how I have drained the water heater.

I guess on the positive side.... I have never had a rusted and stuck rod.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper

I'm beginning to think I am the only one that removes mine after every trip. It's always how I have drained the water heater.

I guess on the positive side.... I have never had a rusted and stuck rod.

Nope not alone !
Drain mine after each use.

No thread tape
No thread sealant

No leak.

Turbs

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by oldprof1

WD 40 stands for Water Displacement formula attempt #40. It is not penetrating oil. Get a good grade PENETRATING oil. soak the connection leave overnight soak again. Using the correct size socket remove the Anode. You might find an impact gun makes the job easy. Possibly you can rent one at a tool rental store or even places like Home Depot.

On the subject of leaving it. The longer it stay's in the harder it will be to remove. Now you have the same job, more difficult at a later time. Eventually the anode has to be replaced. If you don't the HW tank will corrode out and you will be faced with the expense of replacing the tank. Good luck!

The number one thing to do is use the correct size socket. If it is corroded in you have a problem because the sole purpose of the anode is to prevent corrosion of the iron parts of the water heater.

Always use teflon tape or teflon pipe dope to reinstall your new one.

[hockeytownmom]

It's always a good idea to replace your anode rod after every season. They are designed to corrode so the water doesn't corrode the tank.

[Len & Cheri]

Originally Posted by hockeytownmom

It's always a good idea to replace your anode rod after every season. They are designed to corrode so the water doesn't corrode the tank.

You can, but I think it would be a waste of money. They don't require replacing until there is no material left on the rod. I had my last TT 8 years and replaced the anode rod once. Depending on your water conditions you may have to replace more often, or even less often.

[Herk7769]

This is what the manufacturer has to say on the topic:

[latner]

In this case lose the WD40 and get some PB Blaster, it will be your new friend.

[miatared]

No one mentioned it, or maybe I missed it ... with the Suburban WH it's a 1-1/16" socket size you need - along with an extension, 6 inch is ideal, I tried with a short extension the 1st time and cut my hand on the nasty piece of sheet metal that protects the burner...

Teflon tape helps both in putting it in next and removing it later. Mine lasted 3 full summers before it needed to be replaced.

Good luck.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by herk7769

That was totally uncalled for. I must remind you (I know it was said in jest) that name calling is prohibited here. Please treat each other with respect.

I may have been quick on the trigger but I have to say that most of our "bar fights" started with innocuous comments said in jest that were taken badly by the recipient. TONE does not come through in a post. I would rather be early than late when it comes to protecting our reputation as a nice place to visit.

I am SURE Turbo took no offense; as I am SURE your "nudge" was all in good fun. I am also sure that if the "good old boys" (those of us who have no life when we are not camping) don't set the example, then who will?

[wayne anthony]

The way my anode rod looked after the first six months usage, I thought I would have to replace it every couple of years, how ever after two more years, it looks the same.
As far as draining the water, I forgot to switch the winterizing valves before blowing out the water, and after switching the valves and removing the rod to drain the water, there was no water left in the tank.

[mduff]

Just replaced ours - first timer as well. 1-1/16" socket as noted. Stand to the side; with the pressure relief open the water will shoot out quickly. Being a used unit (TT) I don't know when it was replaced; appears to be 25% used. For the price I opted to replace and compare the two next year to understand wear. Water conditions in different areas will impact how long the rod will last. In NL its recommended that a home water heater be replaced every 5 years due to the minerals in the water.

[rockfordroo]

I just took mine out of my 2012 Roo 19. Came right out with a 1-1/16" socket. I used my old "manual" torque wrench which is about 1-1/2 ft long. No problem. The rod had about 4 or 5 quarter-sized spots on it, so I'd say it was about 10% used based on hert7769's pics.

[hockeytownmom]

Mine looked pretty bad after one season.

[B47]

Originally Posted by mduff

Just replaced ours - first timer as well. 1-1/16" socket as noted. Stand to the side; with the pressure relief open the water will shoot out quickly. Being a used unit (TT) I don't know when it was replaced; appears to be 25% used. For the price I opted to replace and compare the two next year to understand wear. Water conditions in different areas will impact how long the rod will last. In NL its recommended that a home water heater be replaced every 5 years due to the minerals in the water.

You speak about replacing a home water heater anode rod every 5 years. I have noticed in the past that almost no one ever speaks about their home water heater anode rod. I realize this a RV forum, but I wonder how many home owners even know their water heater contains an anode rod.
It serves the same purpose as the anode rod in your RV does.

My current home contains a tankless water heater so I don't have an anode rod to deal with, but I noticed in my prior homes that if the water heater is in an enclosed closet ( all mine were in closets in the garage) that I don't think I would have enough overhead room to fully extract/insert a new anode rod as all my water heaters had the rods installed in the top of the heater and I would have to remove the closet ceiling in order to get the old rod out and the new rod in.

Just saying.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by B47

You speak about replacing a home water heater anode rod every 5 years. I have noticed in the past that almost no one ever speaks about their home water heater anode rod. I realize this a RV forum, but I wonder how many home owners even know their water heater contains an anode rod.
It serves the same purpose as the anode rod in your RV does.

My current home contains a tankless water heater so I don't have an anode rod to deal with, but I noticed in my prior homes that if the water heater is in an enclosed closet ( all mine were in closets in the garage) that I don't think I would have enough overhead room to fully extract/insert a new anode rod as all my water heaters had the rods installed in the top of the heater and I would have to remove the closet ceiling in order to get the old rod out and the new rod in.

Just saying.

Funny you should say that. After I had my water heater about 6 years I ordered a new anode for my home water heater. It is still sitting next to the heater 2 years later. My old one is so corroded in place it can not be removed without a cutting torch. Since my water heater is a computer controlled unit packed with styrofoam and cost me a pretty penny, I will just need to wait till the bottom rusts out an floods my basement.

I won't obviously, but I have limited options about guessing when to replace it before the inevitable disaster.

Before you say, I tried:

Large breaker bar
Impact Wrench
PB penetrant
heat (melted quite a bit of styrofoam)
Pound the *&^% out of it with a hammer
Tried to "chisel turn" it out.

All with no luck. Wish I had ordered the anode a few years earlier.

Oh, and I also have limited headroom above the heater so I ordered a segmented anode that bends up to 90 degrees so you can snake it into the water heater. The old one would get cut in sections as it was retracted.