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Old 01-25-2013, 02:43 PM   #31
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You are not going to need any special equipemnt to de-winterize, but flush all lines - both hot and cold - at all faucets - until the water runs clear BEFORE you open the water heater by-pass valves. Also, if you've gotten the Camco winterizing by-pass kit in by then, we used to take a gallon jug of white vinegar and run it through all of the lines via the winterizing by-pass, just to flush out all of the lines each spring. After everything runs clear, put the anode back in thewater heater, open the w/h by-pass valves, and make sure it is filled with water before turning it on. (open the pop-off valve on the water heater for a second and you can tell that the water heater has filled.)

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Old 01-25-2013, 03:11 PM   #32
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Location: Keller, Texas
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
If you got it out; replace it. Once the flats on the anode are damaged you will just make it worse trying to get it out next time.

I agree with Herks advice to replace it with a new one. Most rods require a 1 and 1/16" socket to properly remove and reinstall the rod.

I suggest you keep one and the necessary racklet (sp) and extension to allow you to get to the rod end in your tool box.

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