09-04-2012, 12:07 AM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 49
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This maybe a silly question, but after u drain the water heater how do you fill it back up? Do you put water in fresh water tank then it pumps from there? Thanks
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09-04-2012, 12:17 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 67
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Here's my routine to winterize. Turn the three valves to isolate the water heater from the rest of the water supply system. Open up the water heater from the outside, let it drain out by unscrewing the anode holder, check the anode, replace if necessary, screw the anode back in, leave it empty for the winter. Then drain the rest of the water supply. Then put in pink water supply anti-freeze for the winter. Then in the spring, drain the pink stuff, turn the three valves back, fill the water supply part way, flush it out til it's no longer pink, then put in another batch of water with some Chlorox to sanitize, then drain again, then fill and you're in business. The key tidbit is that you NEVER want to get the pink liquid in your water heater.
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09-04-2012, 07:21 AM
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#23
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin66043
This maybe a silly question, but after u drain the water heater how do you fill it back up? Do you put water in fresh water tank then it pumps from there? Thanks
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Replace the plug, make sure the bypass valves are set correctly, then either turn on your water pump or have water to the city water connection, and open a hot water faucet somewhere in the camper. The water heater takes a little while to fill.
Before turning on the electric element or gas burner, double check that the water heater is full by flipping out the pressure relief valve on the top outside part of the water heater.....you should get water out of that. The reason for doing that is just in case you haven't set the bypass valves correctly, you may have gotten water to your faucets and the water heater is still empty.
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09-04-2012, 07:35 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jamestown NY
Posts: 588
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My WH is right at the very front of the TT (extra tounge weight) and I'm also close to the GVW of the TT,6 gl of water weighing about 90lbs, so I drain the WH before I leave the campground every time. I have a universal anode rod that is fitted with a pet-cock in the end so it's just a matter of opening the pet-cock to drain the WH.
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09-04-2012, 07:38 AM
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#25
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindy
My WH is right at the very front of the TT (extra tounge weight) and I'm also close to the GVW of the TT,6 gl of water weighing about 90lbs, so I drain the WH before I leave the campground every time. I have a universal anode rod that is fitted with a pet-cock in the end so it's just a matter of opening the pet-cock to drain the WH.
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The danger of these units is that you will get in the habit of using the petcock to drain the tank when winterizing and not checking the anode for remaining life.
They are expensive; and they have far less anode material than a solid one.
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09-04-2012, 07:39 AM
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#26
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindy
6 gl of water weighing about 90lbs
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6 gallons of water is about 50 lbs.
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09-04-2012, 07:43 AM
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#27
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
6 gallons of water is about 50 lbs.
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Yep,
8.35 pounds per gallon at standard conditions of temperature and pressure.
6x8.35 = 50.1 pounds
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
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09-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
6 gallons of water is about 50 lbs.
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Canada must have "heavy water" as ours weighs 10 lbs/gallon!
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09-04-2012, 02:41 PM
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#29
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakken
Canada must have "heavy water" as ours weighs 10 lbs/gallon!
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It's all that lead ! Lol !
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09-04-2012, 02:51 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Everyone is right as 1 gallon UK = 1.2 gallon US!! So 8.35 lbs (US gal) X 1.2 = 10 lbs (UK gal) The hot water tank is 6 US gallon so 50 lbs
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09-04-2012, 02:51 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
It's all that lead ! Lol !
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What lead?
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09-04-2012, 03:14 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jamestown NY
Posts: 588
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Your right HERK, my bad math I know 6x8lbs = 48 lbs, just had a brain fart I guess, and no IALWAYS take the rod out every fall as standard fall/winterization maintnenace.
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09-05-2012, 11:57 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
Good instructions Lou...I replaced mine just after we bought the trailer used. I thought, boy this thing is all corroded, now I know. I pulled mine last week and drained my hw heater just to clean things out. And yes, you need to bleed the pressure on it..I forgot..good thing I had my shorts and flip flops on. I filled my tank back up and used the gas and ac to check it out...it did take awhile to get all the air out. Now ready to head out on Saturday morning....Oh...I used my adjustable wrench and a screwdriver to turn the wrench..still haven't bought a socket.
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Well this morning I made a trip over to my local Lowes Store, about 4 miles. I found what I needed for only $5.67 using my Lowes Card I got a discount, total with tax $6.22. The best part is, it has a lifetime warranty on it.
Kobalt 1/2" Drive Shallow 6-Point Standard (SAE) Impact Socket
Item #: 337890 | Model #: 85314
So, it should withstand the pressure if I need to take my anode out.
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09-05-2012, 12:08 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
Well this morning I made a trip over to my local Lowes Store, about 4 miles. I found what I needed for only $5.67 using my Lowes Card I got a discount, total with tax $6.22. The best part is, it has a lifetime warranty on it.
Kobalt 1/2" Drive Shallow 6-Point Standard (SAE) Impact Socket
Item #: 337890 | Model #: 85314
So, it should withstand the pressure if I need to take my anode out.
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You say it is a "impact Socket" - is it black or chrome? I hope you never have to use an impact wrench with that impact socket to remove your anode rod.
Not saying you can't use an impact socket with a standard racket, but if you need to use an impact wrench with it, you got bigger problems.
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09-05-2012, 12:34 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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It is an impact socket...cheaper than a regular socket. No, mine is hand tight I assure you. 30 years of working on aircraft...I know what torque is. I got the socket so I can use it with other things if needed, ...it was cheaper than the rest and won't break or round out off my anode.
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09-05-2012, 12:53 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
It is an impact socket...cheaper than a regular socket. No, mine is hand tight I assure you. 30 years of working on aircraft...I know what torque is. I got the socket so I can use it with other things if needed, ...it was cheaper than the rest and won't break or round out off my anode.
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Very good - sounds like you know what you are doing.
What was your aviation career about?
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09-05-2012, 01:25 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B47
Very good - sounds like you know what you are doing.
What was your aviation career about?
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I went to the Army Aviation School at Fort Rucker, Alabama on UH-1 Helicopters, flew in Vietnam with the 101st as a Crewchief on a UH-1H in 1971. Joined the Tennessee Air National Guard, 118th AW at Nashville in 1979. Worked on C-130A models, assistant crew chief, then we got a new C-130H2, I was the assistant on it in 1989. I was a crewchief for several years, then went back into the maint. hanger, where we did the phase inspections. Worked April 2009 to April 2010 on HH-60 Medivacs at Tennessee Army Guard.
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09-05-2012, 01:42 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
I went to the Army Aviation School at Fort Rucker, Alabama on UH-1 Helicopters, flew in Vietnam with the 101st as a Crewchief on a UH-1H in 1971. Joined the Tennessee Air National Guard, 118th AW at Nashville in 1979. Worked on C-130A models, assistant crew chief, then we got a new C-130H2, I was the assistant on it in 1989. I was a crewchief for several years, then went back into the maint. hanger, where we did the phase inspections. Worked April 2009 to April 2010 on HH-60 Medivacs at Tennessee Army Guard.
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Sounds like a honorable career. I am not too familar with all of the C-130 models, but when I was stationed at Dyess AFB, Tx in SAC, the Stewart AFB in Tennesee was closed and their unit and aircraft were transferred to Dyess. I remember seeing their guys polishing the radomes of what I was told were C-130A's (this was in 1961-62) with what I was also told was shoe polish. I remember those C130s had a smaller and different shaped radome than the later models. Truth or not - I don't know, but that is what I was told.
Also speaking of C-130s - we recently were at a RV park in Tucson, AZ, and it was close to the Davis Monthan AFB where retired/surplus military aircraft are stored. Driving along the base, you could see hundreds of various C-130s models sitting there. Kind of funny of seeing all of them there when you think that new C-130's are still rolling off the assembly line in Georgia.
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09-05-2012, 03:13 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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I live in Smyrna, home to the old Sewart AFB. The old hangers are still being used by civilian aviation and the Army Guard. The C130's with the funny nose were the old Roman Nose...we had one, a 1954 model that flew everywhere. We have a lot of people in the area that came to Sewart in the old days, worked here...and now retired.
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09-05-2012, 03:23 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Oshawa, ON
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmswms
We also only do it at the end of the season-and yes you will get wet !
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ditto - there is no need to drain other than winterizing.
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2017 GMC SLT HD All Terrain Crew Cab (6' 6" Box) 2012 Roo 23SS
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