We are new to anything besides a tent and have no idea what we are doing. When we did our walk through, the guy told us that after each use we should drain the water from the hot water heater. He then pointed to this spot and we figured it would be pretty simple from there. After our first trip, we went to drain it and realized the spot where he pointed to was a bolt with thread sealer on it (that looks like it should not be removed). I am wondering if there was something else we were supposed to do, or if it is really necessary to drain it after each trip.
If you choose to drain the water heater, and you have a Suburban, it takes a 1 1/16th inch socket to fit that plug. Release the pressure on the system by opening a faucet. The 1st time removing the drain plug and attached anode rod, it might be hard to do.....they screw that puppy on like it should never be removed. Beware, you will probably get wet !!
Many people (myself included) only empty the water heater once a year when we winterize.
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Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
Let me suggest doing this in the driveway or the yard. That tank holds 6 gallons of water. If you pull the pressure release valve water will drain quicker. Check the anode rod and replace if nessecary. Wrap the threads of the rod with plumbers tape before reinstalling. Make sure you get the threads aligned in the hole properly before screwing in or you may get a cross threaded situation you don't want!
After 1 1/2 years of ownership, I just did this procedure. The anode rod still has at least half a life. Be sure to refill the tank before turning on the heating element!
I only drain mine at the end of each season. Just be sure to release the pressure in the tank with the pressure relief valve and that the water in the tank is cool or cold before draining.
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Bob and Joyce
2013 CC Silverback 29RL
2010 Ford F250 XL Crew Cab 6.4 liter diesel
ATU Local 788
I too only drain mine at the end of each season. Inspect the anode rod and replace it if it's heavily corroded. But before you drain it, be sure to flip the three valves so the hot water heater is isolated from the rest of the water supply.
I too only drain mine at the end of each season. Inspect the anode rod and replace it if it's heavily corroded. But before you drain it, be sure to flip the three valves so the hot water heater is isolated from the rest of the water supply.
Am I correct in asumming that you only have to "flip the three valves" if you are going to winterize the unit? Otherwise, what is the point?
If the element doesn't have water around it (full tank), it will burn up if you put power to it. If you drain at the end of the season, it could freeze like a frozen soda can and destroy it. The plan should be at the end off the season, turn off the breaker to the water heater, drain it, turn the three bypass valves and the pump RV anti-freeze through the rest of the system.
__________________ Ed & Ruthann / Toby and Tucker
2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
2014 Wildcat 327ck
If the element doesn't have water around it (full tank), it will burn up if you put power to it. If you drain at the end of the season, it could freeze like a frozen soda can and destroy it. The plan should be at the end off the season, turn off the breaker to the water heater, drain it, turn the three bypass valves and the pump RV anti-freeze through the rest of the system.
Understand the need to have water in the tank before switching on the electric.
But for some people (myself included) pumping RV anti-freeze though the water system as part of a winterizing program isn't always necessary weather permitting, of course. And even if you live in a cold climate, you can always install the kit that allows you to blow compressed air though the lines instead of adding anti-freeze.
And maybe it does or could happen, but has anyone heard of an empty RV water heater tank freezeing?
And maybe it does or could happen, but has anyone heard of an empty RV water heater tank freezeing?
I have never heard of an empty water heater freezing. What is there to freeze ?? Even if there we still just a couple of tablespoons of water in there, I don't see where that would cause damage. That little bit of water would ride up the sides as it freezes, and shouldn't cause any damage.
I even get out the last little bit of water out of the tank by putting a rolled up paper towel in the tank and letting it hang over the side of the camper. The residual water will "wick" down the paper towel from the wettest to the driest, lowest point.
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Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
I drain ours every single time out. I'm not even sure why you wouldn't as it takes little time or effort. Sometimes the available water is less than desirable and it'll get funky if it gets left in there.
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2015 Sierra 357TRIP
2012 Ram 2500 CCSB 6.7CTD
I'm with Murray. It's easy to drain, it allows you to frequently inspect your anode rod, it keeps water in the tank from getting funky (if there's no water in there, it can't get funky,) and why carry around an extra 50 pounds of water if you don't have to? Fuel isn't getting any cheaper. Just release the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank, MAKE SURE the electric element is off, and unscrew that plug. After a few times of practice, you'll learn where to stand so you don't get wet.
On the flip side, I actually allow my water heater to fill up when I leave the house prior to dry camping--that gives me an extra 6 gallons over the 42 that fits in the fresh tank--so in that case, it's worth the fuel mileage penalty to have 48 gallons of water on board instead of 42. But I still always drain out before heading home. Good luck!
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2015 XLR Hyperlite 30HFS5 (mods being performed regularly)
2009 Salem LA 292fkds (gone)
Nights- ('12)23 ('13)23 ('14)15 ('15)31 ('16)27 ('17) 20 (‘18)21 (‘19)23
2019 Honda CRV (camping support vehicle)
2014 Harley Davidson FLHX (XLR cargo)
2011 Ram 2500 CC 4X4 CTD, B&W Companion (toy hauler hauler)
If my trailer is going to sit over 2 weeks before its next use I will drain it.
I went to auto zone and bought a ratchet, extender, and socket that fits the drain plug. I leave it in my storage compartment of the trailer. With that in my hand and a roll of teflon tape its a breeze to take on and off.
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Philip, DW, 3 DD, 1 DS, and Ginger our Dog
2017 Wildwood 30QBSS
2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 Liter with 3.73 Axle
Equalizer 4-Point Sway 12000# & Tekonsha P3
On the flip side, I actually allow my water heater to fill up when I leave the house prior to dry camping--that gives me an extra 6 gallons over the 42 that fits in the fresh tank--so in that case, it's worth the fuel mileage penalty to have 48 gallons of water on board instead of 42. But I still always drain out before heading home. Good luck!
I also fill the lines and the water heater before leaving home so I don't hold up the water fill area at the campground. Drives me nuts watching some guy that waits until he's at the campground trying to remember how his water system works.
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2015 Sierra 357TRIP
2012 Ram 2500 CCSB 6.7CTD
The anode is a sacrificial piece of metal that is designed to "rust" FIRST so your water tank does not. Only IRON hot water heaters have them (like Suburban). Aluminum boiler hot water heaters (like Atwood) do not.
You only need to replace them when there is less than 25% of the material left on the rod. Many do not wait that long and change around 50%.
I am going on 4 years now on my original anode. Others go through an anode a year. It all depends on the kind of water you have.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Good instructions Lew...I replaced mine just after we bought the trailer used. I thought, boy this thing is all corroded, now I know. I pulled mine last week and drained my hw heater just to clean things out. And yes, you need to bleed the pressure on it..I forgot..good thing I had my shorts and flip flops on. I filled my tank back up and used the gas and ac to check it out...it did take awhile to get all the air out. Now ready to head out on Saturday morning....Oh...I used my adjustable wrench and a screwdriver to turn the wrench..still haven't bought a socket.
It is false economy (IMO) to jury rig something to get the anode out. If you round off the ears on the anode bolt you will have a heck of a time getting it out. Spend a few dollars and get a proper wrench.
It is false economy (IMO) to jury rig something to get the anode out. If you round off the ears on the anode bolt you will have a heck of a time getting it out. Spend a few dollars and get a proper wrench.
X2 on that bit of advice!
And we drain our tank after every trip. One time when we didn't, something in the water reacted with the anode rod and created a white "snot" that grew on the rod, and it stank to high heaven. It took a lot of effort to clean the tank. So for the 15 seconds it takes to remove the rod, and the minute to replace, why wouldn't you take it out?
Beware, you will probably get wet !! 
Be sure to refill the tank before turning on the heating element!
Ed & Ruthann / Toby and Tucker 
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