Another Delamination Thread :(

[DirtSquirt]

Always something going wrong with these things, eh?

So this spring, I noticed the curved part at the top of the trailer where the front cap meets the roof has collapsed on the one side. There are also signs of delamination running down the front of that side of the trailer. I've been quoted $3,000 - $5,000 to fix it at a few RV places near me, $1,000 for a new filon piece for the front end and I DIY, or $600 for a combo of an aluminum sheet and diamond plate to DIY a new front end. Or, about $300 for the Composet kit to try to glue it back together myself.

At this point, it's looking like we will probably try to go the $300 glue route, but I'm worried about what I find will when I open it up and then how to clamp the curve at the top so I wonder if just pulling the whole thing off and replacing it with the aluminum might be easier?

Has anyone dealt with delam in this area of the trailer? Any idea what it looks like under that curved area at the top of the trailer?

Anyone know what kind of adhesives I could buy instead of buying the pricey kit?

I have gone up on the roof over the years and made sure all of the seals look good and applied more dicor to questionable areas. Everything looks good to me. I can't see any areas where it looks like water would have gotten in. The side wall looks totally fine. There have never been any leaks on the inside of the trailer. I guess it's possible that moisture could have gotten in around that light, as the caulking doesn't look that great around it.

Any insight, suggestions or help would be wonderful!

Here are a whole bunch of pics for reference. I will update this thread after completing the fix as well.


It looks dirty, but the roof was scrubbed and more dicor applied last fall.

[ChrisParise]

While contemplating a delam fix of my own on a class c , i sought more knowledge on delam fixes and came across a YouTube fix for the front end of a trailer. In the video you can see the type of underlying structure, which may be helpful to you in identifying the right fix approach. I will search for the YouTube link and post it here for you this morning.
Ps. I am putting my delam fix on hold, a little too much work for not that much return at this time.
Chris

[ChrisParise]

Here is a YouTube on a diy delamination fix for a trailer. https://youtu.be/kubkNPacNVk

In it, you can clearly see the underlying front structure. I watched this video a few weeks ago and I don't remember if there was any water damage found, which may be similar to what you suspect on yours. I do recall they added more 2 x2s for underlying support thinking the filon needed more support.

Maybe you've seen this YouTube but I hope it helps

Chris

[DirtSquirt]

Originally Posted by parise

Here is a YouTube on a diy delamination fix for a trailer. https://youtu.be/kubkNPacNVk

Great video! Thanks! It is definitely nice to see the underlying structure and also to see that there wasn't a whole lot of damage under there.

I spoke with a local RV mechanic yesterday and he thinks that the damage is caused by condensation from the inside and not from any water infiltration from the outside. That makes sense as we do use the trailer year round, that is right where a bunk is on inside and the side that the persons head is on. We do use electric heaters in the colder times rather than our propane furnace, but the condensation can get pretty bad in the trailer even so. I'm hoping that it at least means that I won't have huge water damage from a long time, big leak in there either.

Since the mechanic I spoke with didn't think that there was any imminent danger to us or the trailer if we didn't fix it immediately, I think that we will delay fixing this at least until the fall. We will have to decide what to do. I either need to find a way to stop condensation getting from the inside out, or possibly go with a different type of insulation in that area that isn't prone to mold growth.

[ChrisParise]

Ever since we identified our leak in our class c I have been using 2 Damp Rid canisters year round to absorb moisture.

I consider our situation fortunate. I discovered a leak actively occurring and took pictures which our dealer was able to use to identify the source. At my request the dealer replaced a small section of wall board and made sure the inside wall was dry and free of mold before sealing it up. Luckily, the wall board fix is almost imperceptible even to me so I feel very lucky. My delam is minor as well.

Let us know if you decide to tackle your fix


Chris

[Skyliner]

Replaced my rear wall. No wood rot or obvious water intrusion. Looks like the glue let go after 10 years. New filon/luan exterior sheet and good to go.

[ChrisParise]

It is encouraging to hear the serviceability and successful results. One day I'll tackle mine!

[DirtSquirt]

Originally Posted by parise

Ever since we identified our leak in our class c I have been using 2 Damp Rid canisters year round to absorb moisture.

Ooh! Great idea!

[DirtSquirt]

Originally Posted by Skyliner

Replaced my rear wall. No wood rot or obvious water intrusion. Looks like the glue let go after 10 years. New filon/luan exterior sheet and good to go.

Awesome!

[yetavon]

2015 21DK started in the same spot, in 2 months started delaminating in front of the slide. No indication of any leaks.

[ChrisParise]

The camposet people who sell the resins and kits to fix these issues do say stress can be a cause. A back wall though, I don't know.

For what it is worth I seriously looked at fixing my issue, caused mainly by a wall leak. Location is below and to the sides of the cab over windows, primarily the passenger side. A concern raised by the people above was that if I removed the window to inject the resins, which was my plan, be careful that it is possible the window is only thing holding the cab over side walls together!!

Well, once I shared that with my wife she said no way should you touch it. Now, here's the THING. I know it's not scientific but the areas in and around the affected area "knock" like they are solid and the perimeters also knock solid, like the luan layers are good and the structure is sound. If it were just me I would take our the window before doing anything else and make a decision. Not going to happen though.
Ps. Attached picture one which I taped out the areas affected. Area A. Area?. And area Z. The ? Mark area is not delaminate and knocks solid but if I did inject the resins I would plan on doing that area. Right now it's all on hold