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Old 10-08-2018, 07:58 PM   #21
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Yes, about 10 years

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Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
After cleaning the area to lay the Eternabond with mineral spirits on a rag, followed by denatured alcohol on a rag you apply the eternabond right on top of the caulking. Lay the Eternabond and roll it down with a seam roller. Once the Eternabond touches the roof or caulking it is difficult to remove, once you roll it down with pressure it's almost impossible to remove. Follow the directions that come with the Eternabond and it is good for 10 years.
You can read all about the application on Eternabonds web site. EternaBond
The slideout on our 2007 Cherokee 38P has two skylights. They are merely 25" x 25" x 3/8" polycarbonate sheets taped to the EPDM roofing with 4" Eternabond. The Eternabond is beginning to split and will have to be replaced before winter. Obviously, it's 11 years old and had been exposed most or all o that time. (The slideouts are never closed.)

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Old 10-09-2018, 08:04 PM   #22
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So this made me feel better about the $500 roof repair and maintenance I just paid for. Yes, we could have done the repairs and applied new caulk., but I didn't want to. So it was good to get this maintenance done instead for problems later.
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:30 PM   #23
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Who makes ladders for Forest River Crusaders. Anyone know? Thanks?
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:30 PM   #24
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Ladder
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:12 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by snoopy1 View Post
REALLY your Ins Co refused to pay as it wasn't from impact damage. I have Progressive & they gave me the same excuse for my roof damage! Time to get another Ins Co, one that actually will pay up!
Dave
Actually I do believe they made the proper call. It's Forest River who is to blame. So when I had (PAID FOR) the roof done they uncovered a spot that had factory caulking over it & the tear looked exactly like the 2 I showed to F/R & Progressive. Anyway we did the the ALCAN highway & logged 8K miles, up there proverb-able spot!
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:29 PM   #26
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10 years is about right

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
After cleaning the area to lay the Eternabond with mineral spirits on a rag, followed by denatured alcohol on a rag you apply the eternabond right on top of the caulking. Lay the Eternabond and roll it down with a seam roller. Once the Eternabond touches the roof or caulking it is difficult to remove, once you roll it down with pressure it's almost impossible to remove. Follow the directions that come with the Eternabond and it is good for 10 years.
You can read all about the application on Eternabonds web site. EternaBond
10 years is about right. I just had to replace a skylight on our 2007 Cherokee 38P. The skylight was a flat plate of 1/16" polystyrene (Lexan) which they had screwed down with those ubiquitous #6 round-head white Robertson screws every two inches. Over time the Eternabond adhesive had settled around the screws and the white backing had split over the screws. The trailer is (nominally) 11 years old.

I found that they had used the same screws-and-Eternabond-tape where the slideout siding meets the slideout roof and the screw heads are beginning to poke through there, too. My plan is to scrub the existing tape and apply the new tape right over it. (On the skylight job I had to remove the old tape and adhesive. It was only eight linear feet but it took several hours. I had wondered about the mineral spirits followed by alcohol as recommended above, but I had both. After scrubbing the roof with mineral spirits (a non-polar solvent), it felt a bit gummy. I figured the Eternabond would stick to it, but tried the alcohol (a polar solvent) anyway. Just a light wipe took all the gumminess away and left a dry surface for the tape to adhere to. More details here.)

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Old 11-27-2018, 10:41 PM   #27
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Moisture meter? Absolutely

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Originally Posted by tlspencer View Post
I'm involved with volunteers leading the recoveries from Hurricanes Matthew AND Florence here North Carolina. The damage is mostly from flooding, not winds. After you muck-and-gut each house (remove furniture, cabinets, carpet, all but the bottom layer of flooring, and drywall and insulation up to 2' above the water line, the next thing you do is...

Wait until the moisture meter reads 14% or less,
then treat for mold and begin rebuilding.
If you don't do that, the first warm,
humid day, mold will come right back
through the drywall. And if the building
inspector catches you before that, he
will make you rip all the work out.

Larry
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:23 AM   #28
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I've had good luck with a heat gun and plastic putty knife to smooth out the caulk. Mineral Spirits to clean and eternabond tape to finish it off. My trailer is pretty new, and I'm on the roof quite often.....
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