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Old 03-19-2017, 03:08 PM   #1
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Coachman TT Exterior Trim

There is a 1" metal trim piece that looks glued right near floor level that is all the way around the trailer that is separating from the trailer. Trailer is 6 months old and I can only see it getting worse with time. Has anyone tried self tapping black screws to hold this in place? or any other ideas?
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:21 PM   #2
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If it's only 6 months old, my idea would be to take it to the dealer for warranty repair.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:05 PM   #3
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i just got it back from warranty work - it was gone for 8 weeks. I was looking for a quick fix to keep it intact
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:08 PM   #4
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Trying to picture what this is, don`t think there is anything like that on my Catalina. What type of Coachmen do you have and a pic might be helpful.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:15 PM   #5
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322RLDS Freedom Express
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:54 PM   #6
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I would tray a body shop and see what kind of glue they would recommend. I am sure there is a glue out there that will fix the problem. But this is just another reason I don't understand warranty work. Why does it take so long to,get something repaired. I don't like having to do repairs to,something I paid 20-30000.00 for that is under warranty when it should be taken care of by the company. Just look at how much money the customers are saving FR when they do there own repairs vice taking to dealer for warranty work. Maybe that is why they do it.
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Old 03-19-2017, 05:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by gatormanpc View Post
322RLDS Freedom Express
This is just a "J" trim that receives the lower aluminum side skirt.

The "J" trim is just stapled to the side of the trailer so it can appear to come loose. All you need to do is run a small bead of Dicor non-sag along the top of that trim that appears to be loose. This is a basic maintenance area that will require yearly inspection and touch up.
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Old 03-19-2017, 05:42 PM   #8
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it doesn't have any staples that i can see, it's solid and glued. it's been re-glued and i'm guessing from flexing and expansion it's breaking loose.
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Old 03-19-2017, 05:51 PM   #9
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it doesn't have any staples that i can see, it's solid and glued. it's been re-glued and i'm guessing from flexing and expansion it's breaking loose.
There will be no visable staples. Think of an upside down / backwards, capital "J".
The J trim is stapled to the side of trailer on the long part of the "J". The dark colored aliminum skirt is then slid up into the upside down hook of the "J" concealing the staples.
All you are seeing is the hook part of the "J", that is secured (glued) to hide the gap that you are seeing. The "glue" is Dicor non sag RV sealant.
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Old 03-19-2017, 06:08 PM   #10
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I'll give it a try. Does it come in black or does it matter? I'm guessing it will clean up with alcohol or something? Thanks for the help
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Old 03-19-2017, 07:33 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
There will be no visable staples. Think of an upside down / backwards, capital "J".
The J trim is stapled to the side of trailer on the long part of the "J". The dark colored aliminum skirt is then slid up into the upside down hook of the "J" concealing the staples.
All you are seeing is the hook part of the "J", that is secured (glued) to hide the gap that you are seeing. The "glue" is Dicor non sag RV sealant.
It comes in white, tan, black. This is a VERY STICKEY, solvent based sealant. I use lacquer thinner to get it off my hands and tools. DO NOT USE THE LACQUER THINNER on the black J trim. It is just painted and you will remove the paint. You can try denatured alcohol in an inconspicuous place to see how it does on clean up and paint.
Use only NON SAG ON SIDES OF TRAILER.
USE SELF LEVELING FOR THE ROOF.
There are many application videos on youtube. Here is a link to one.


CAUTION: If you are not comfortable with a caulk gun or cannot run a nice bead, (this is a very visable area on your trailer) I would take it back under warranty or practice with white self leveling on the roof where nobody can see it.

ps. DO NOT USE SILICONE (it always comes loose, is a nightmare to get off and nothing sticks over top of it)
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:43 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
It comes in white, tan, black. This is a VERY STICKEY, solvent based sealant. I use lacquer thinner to get it off my hands and tools. DO NOT USE THE LACQUER THINNER on the black J trim. It is just painted and you will remove the paint. You can try denatured alcohol in an inconspicuous place to see how it does on clean up and paint.
Use only NON SAG ON SIDES OF TRAILER.
USE SELF LEVELING FOR THE ROOF.
There are many application videos on youtube. Here is a link to one.


CAUTION: If you are not comfortable with a caulk gun or cannot run a nice bead, (this is a very visable area on your trailer) I would take it back under warranty or practice with white self leveling on the roof where nobody can see it.

ps. DO NOT USE SILICONE (it always comes loose, is a nightmare to get off and nothing sticks over top of it)
Hence, why I would take it back. I don't have confidence I wouldn't make a mess of it.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:26 PM   #13
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Hence, why I would take it back. I don't have confidence I wouldn't make a mess of it.
I get that YOU would not want to mess up a caulk job while under warranty. I am not sure how the OP feels about it but said he would give it a try.
At some point though, everyone needs to be able to perform basic maintenance on their trailers. EVERYTHING (lights, plugs, seams, seals and roof) on the exterior gets sealed with Dicor. This is a must for all to practice and learn.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:39 PM   #14
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I get that YOU would not want to mess up a caulk job while under warranty. I am not sure how the OP feels about it but said he would give it a try.
At some point though, everyone needs to be able to perform basic maintenance on their trailers. EVERYTHING (lights, plugs, seams, seals and roof) on the exterior gets sealed with Dicor. This is a must for all to practice and learn.
Without trying to be the sealant police a general recommendation like that is far from accurate. As an example on all Rockwood or Flagstaff products no Dicor is used anywhere. The roof membrane is Alpha Systems Superflex, and Alpha Systems sealant is recommended anywhere any item or trim contacts the membrane. Corner trim and such, aluminum to fiberglass is sealed with Geocel Proflex RV typically in clear. Windows, lights, water heater flange, and some other items have no sealant at all, they use a closed cell foam gasket.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:02 PM   #15
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Without trying to be the sealant police a general recommendation like that is far from accurate. As an example on all Rockwood or Flagstaff products no Dicor is used anywhere. The roof membrane is Alpha Systems Superflex, and Alpha Systems sealant is recommended anywhere any item or trim contacts the membrane. Corner trim and such, aluminum to fiberglass is sealed with Geocel Proflex RV typically in clear. Windows, lights, water heater flange, and some other items have no sealant at all, they use a closed cell foam gasket.
Well, there you have it. The sealant police, thanks for your help thus far to the OP.
Ok, if your unit has a leak " on the Corner trim and such, aluminum to fiberglass is sealed with Geocel Proflex RV typically in clear." and the campstore only had Dicor would you use it? YES! Dicor and proflex are interchangable. As far as "Windows, lights, water heater flange, and some other items have no sealant at all, they use a closed cell foam gasket." After the warranty, not many are going to pull the lights or water heater flange to replace a failing foam gasket, they will caulk it right or wrong, it will be sealed.
So, yes, I forgot the disclaimer that said check with your local dealer for the proper product to use on the roof.
Bottom line is anyone that owns an RV should know how to handle a caulk gun.

Ps. The OP does not own a Flagstaff or a Rockwood, what sealant would you recommend he uses on his 2017 Coachman Freedom Express 322RLDS for the sides and roof?
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:59 PM   #16
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I found most of the repairs I do are better than the dealers work. When i went to pick it up after 2 months some of the issues were still there after they had supposedly fixed them. From listening to other people it's just part of having an RV - I'd like to use it instead of paying for it to sit at the dealer.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:56 PM   #17
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I found most of the repairs I do are better than the dealers work. When i went to pick it up after 2 months some of the issues were still there after they had supposedly fixed them. From listening to other people it's just part of having an RV - I'd like to use it instead of paying for it to sit at the dealer.
Welcome to the DIY club, the repairs get done in a timely manner, you learn how to repair your rig and learn the ins and outs of how everything works.
Post some pics once you get that trim sealed up.
(I learned of the J trim when I had to replace a fender skirt)
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:19 AM   #18
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Ok, if your unit has a leak " on the Corner trim and such, aluminum to fiberglass is sealed with Geocel Proflex RV typically in clear." and the campstore only had Dicor would you use it? YES! Dicor and proflex are interchangable.

NO!.......If your doing maintenance and inspections at regular intervals you should never find a leak at a campground. I would not do some type of cob job by putting dicor over another sealant which IMO would look like hell. If your in that situation an easily removed piece of tape will work for the short time needed to obtain the proper product. I have 30 + years in commercial construction and know of no sealant manufacturer that would recommend going over one type or brand sealant with another no matter how "compatible" they may or may not be, but if it works for you go for it.

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Ps. The OP does not own a Flagstaff or a Rockwood, what sealant would you recommend he uses on his 2017 Coachman Freedom Express 322RLDS for the sides and roof?
I'd recommend he find out the product Coachmen is using and use the same thing. As far as the roof Coachmen says they use EPDM in the known to be inaccurate brochures. Its easy to determine if your roof is EPDM, a TPO, or something else. I am not going to go into the methods used to determine that. I would verify that myself before I would even trust someone from the factory. EPDM = standard Dicor. TPO= Dicor Ultra with primer. Alpha Superflex = Superflex total protection sealant. Use standard Dicor on a TPO or Superflex and you're asking for problems.

Quote:
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There will be no visable staples. Think of an upside down / backwards, capital "J".
The J trim is stapled to the side of trailer on the long part of the "J". The dark colored aliminum skirt is then slid up into the upside down hook of the "J" concealing the staples.
All you are seeing is the hook part of the "J", that is secured (glued) to hide the gap that you are seeing. The "glue" is Dicor non sag RV sealant.
I would be pulling off the lower fascia and replacing the staples with screws on the J trim. The sealant shown in the OP's original picture does not even remotely look like non sag Dicor. You would never get the paper thin residue you can see that someone did not remove on the sidewall above the joint with Dicor, what you would have is a hideous looking mess.
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Old 03-24-2017, 04:12 PM   #19
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Just for future reference, coachman contacted me today and they use Geocel 2300 in clear on the freedom express
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Old 03-24-2017, 04:40 PM   #20
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Again, not a spec of help to the OP.
Dicor it is.

Ps: To the OP, do not take the advise above regarding removing the the lower fascia, removing the staples and installing screws. The factory uses staples due to the low profile head of the staple. The nailing flange on the J trim is only about 1" long and a screw head would dimple the the aluminum skirt. The gap you see is because the staple is on the nailing flange and not where it contacts the trailer where you see the caulking. Caulk it and be done with it.

Again not a spec of help to the OP......Dicor it's not LOL.


OP , you can pull that fascia and use screws with a low profile head to attach the molding. They use staples for two reasons......fast and cheap. It will not dimple anything.

No manufacturer is using any type of Dicor on sidewall items other than awning or gutter rail to roof membrane and if the corners contact the roof membrane such as at a front curl.

To the OP.....do not take the advice above about hogging up the side of your rig with Dicor which will dry out and crack in less than 3 seasons and not match anything else on the sidewall making it look like it was done by a Shoemaker. Use the Geocell the manufacturer recommends.
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