Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-02-2010, 11:51 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 48
Lightbulb DIY replacement of (solid construction) roof.

First off I am new to this forum and would like to say Hi! I am and have been a member of other forums and hope that I can give back to this one as well as benefit from it.

The problem: First off I brought a pig in a poke which was not wise, but that’s another story.
What I got was a 2001 Forest River Flagstaff 26DS, I was informed that it had some water damage from a roof leak and that they had been quoted $500 to replace two sheets of the interior roof panels. I had someone go look at the unit, but they were as uneducated to RV’s and TT as me. When I got it home and started looking into it I found that I had water intrusion and rot into the (solid construction) roof. I know that the EDMP roofing will have to be replaced, but has anyone done a DIY replacement of say 8’ to 12’ of (solid construction) roof.
I have searched the internet for some information on my problem and the only thing that I can find, suggest that it is a factory repair. That is not an option for me because of cost; the roof would cost more than the TT.
I have been thinking about this for several days. Would or could a complete DIY truss roof system be an option? I would appreciate any opinions and help.

Thanks
Jeff
__________________

__________________
pinkstonj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2010, 11:58 AM   #2
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,274
1st of all, welcome to the forum.

I think a rubber roof replacement is beyond the ability of most DIYers.....at least it would be for me. Check with a couple of local RV dealers, and see if they do such repairs, or maybe they can suggest someone that does.

I know there was an article in either the Good Sam or Trailer Life magazine a year or so ago on how to do the replacement, and it was a pretty detailed article. Might want to if you can find that article, or see what information is on the net.
__________________

__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:35 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
I'm actually knee deep in a roof rebuild. I too bought a leaker and the more I uncovered the more I found. I finally broke down and just started tearing off everything. Currently my Salem 295BHSS is down to the rotted trusses but amazingly the walls seem to be in fine shape (with the exception of the front wall which I will also rebuild). I'm trying to figure out the best material to use for new trusses this week so i can attack the project next weekend again. Option #1 is to buy/build exact replacement trusses which look to be 1x1.5inch laminated bow rafters. I may cut the old rafters out and leave the wiring in place or have to reroute it through the new rafters. Option #2 is to build some other type of rafter, maybe cut down 2x6's. Regardless of which I choose, I will end up with a more sturdy roof when finished. In my opinion the factory trusses are marginal for strength at best. As for roof sheeting I'm thinking of 1/4" marine rated plywood laid perpendicular to the trailer, glued and screwed. Then another 1/4" layer glued and screwed to it, laid inline with trailer. Encapsulated insulation underneath then comes the options for the inner ceiling. Option #1 is go back with the white luan similar to factory. Option #2 I'm considering is a suspended ceiling mounted directly to furring strips perpendicular to trailer. I need to physically look at those materials and do some measuring but I'm thinking I can get away with losing only 1 to 1.5" of height in the trailer. This wouldn't be a problem as I'm the tallest in my family at 5'6". The advantage of the suspended ceiling is I can anchor my wiring underneath the new trusses without unhooking anything as the furring strips would give me clearance. Also, I will always have access to the underside of roof for inspection and could even remove a panel or to during the winter to keep away condensation on underside of roof. I need to be sure I have enough clearance for the inner flange on slide out before I go and lower the ceiling though.
One thing is for sure - after ripping the old stuff out I've learned a lot about rv roofs. Even when you think it's good it still may be molding. What looked like a sagging ceiling panel when I purchased turned out to be completely rotten rafters. Once the new rubber roof is installed I will be the guy that religiously maintains it. In one way I wish I just bought something ready to go, but I'd be willing to bet that many if not most rv's bought used have some degree of water damage. It's just a matter of time before it gets bad enough to see the effects. And by then it's too late to correct the problem, only replacement will fix it. I started a thread on rv.net and have some pictures posted there. Any advice on rafters/roof/ceiling are welcome.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: New to TT, boy did I get in deep
__________________
caseymou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 12:56 PM   #4
CLASS "A" Senior Member
 
cfsoistman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,135
Caseymou, to the Forums. Sounds like you have got one big project on your hands. The one big concern with adding the suspended ceiling would be the additional weight. I'm not sure how much more it might weigh but it's something to consider.
__________________

2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR

Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
cfsoistman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 01:08 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Thanks for the reply. I'm a little more worried about the planned additions to rafter weight and how it may affect my C.O.G. than the suspended ceiling. I think those panels are pretty lightweight. The grid I'm looking at is plastic as well so not much weight either. This is the product I've researched somewhat:

CeilingLink Direct Mount Ceiling Grid System
__________________
caseymou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 01:51 PM   #6
CLASS "A" Senior Member
 
cfsoistman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upperco, Maryland
Posts: 3,135
Quote:
Originally Posted by caseymou View Post
Thanks for the reply. I'm a little more worried about the planned additions to rafter weight and how it may affect my C.O.G. than the suspended ceiling. I think those panels are pretty lightweight. The grid I'm looking at is plastic as well so not much weight either. This is the product I've researched somewhat:

CeilingLink Direct Mount Ceiling Grid System
Never seen these before. Nice idea!!
__________________

2007 Georgetown 370TS
aka - RAYNMKR

Driver: Charlie
Navigator: Sheri
cfsoistman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2011, 01:16 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 48
Caseymou. I may be too late to give you any ideas,but you have a different roof system than what I have. It looks like I will have to go back with something like what you have. I was thinking about making replacement rafters out of 1 or plywood and double them so that each rafter would be 2 or 11/2 wide. With that you could then cut out holes for wiring and ducts, you would end up with more strength than what was there. My concern with adding the suspended ceiling would be the tiles falling out while in transit.
__________________
pinkstonj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2011, 11:20 AM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Actually, that is what I've decided on. Rough cutting 3/4 outdoor rated plywood and gluing together then cutting arch and wiring/duct holes. Should be much stronger than factory and not that much heavier. As far as suspended ceiling goes, I was planning to use the dimensional tiles that have shoulders and actually drop below the grid. This serves 2 purposes - looks and it should help locate the tiles when traveling. I think that along with the limited clearance above the tiles won't allow much movement if any. I'm more concerned with the potential for dust generated while towing although I plan to stay somewhat local with this TT so if I have to run the sweeper for 5 min when I set up it's no big deal. And if tiles wear out eventually it'll be an easy replacement.

I just really like the idea of being able to inspect the underside of roof with minimal effort.
__________________

__________________
caseymou is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:02 AM.