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Old 09-11-2012, 05:51 PM   #1
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EPDM, TPO or PVC?

I will be replacing the single-ply TPO membrane on my 2008 Rockwood. It has a couple of leaks that I can't track down and a little damaged plywood that needs to be replaced. I am planning to do the work myself but I am undecided about which product. The TPO on the camper has not performed well, so I am a little leery of it. EPDM is the most common fix, but leaves streaks on the sides. The PVC is relatively new and I haven't found any reviews. Anybody got an opinion?
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:23 PM   #2
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Epdm

Matt, have you replaced that roof yet? I just covered my entire roof with EPDM liquid rubber. My roof was EPDM rubber and I didn't like the chalking either. The EPDM liquid rubber is a super high gloss bright white when applied and it stays that way - EPDM without the chalk running down the sides of the RV. Total cost for my entire 32' Salem was under $375.00. It's great stuff and if you haven't replaced your roof yet, you may want to take a look at it. Google EPDM Liquid Rubber or epdmcoatings.com. Excellent stuff.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:35 PM   #3
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I looked at the coatings but with the plywood damage I was going to rpair and then replace with new membrane.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:12 PM   #4
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I wonder if a fella could do a sheet metal roof and corners like some of the high end horse trailers and race car trailers. I know the corners are a.little more radiused but I would think a very durable material. Not the answer you were looking for but.... I would think the role out sheet of roofing would be easier to dry in but one pin hole and you are leaking again. The liquid may be a little harder to get 100% guaranteed coverage but a couple of coats and you would probably be safe, and wont scratch/tear as easy. I think it may be 6 of one half dozen of another!?
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Sopher
I looked at the coatings but with the plywood damage I was going to rpair and then replace with new membrane.
I was lucky and the press board used on my TT only had one small area where the wood had dry rotted out. I cut a piece of plywood and the liquid nailed it, so I didn't need to replace the original EPDM rubber. While doing research I did find some people that used just enough EPDM rubber to cover the patched area, then did the EPDM liquid rubber over that. There are certainly many options.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:27 PM   #6
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If you have a choice between the 3, use TPO, best material.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:31 PM   #7
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On another forum I am a member of, there seems to be mixed feelings on EPDM vs. TPO. TPO has a felt backing that, some say, will wick water if a leak develops and thus spread potential damage further and quicker. No experience on PVC but the church I am a member of is preparing to have a PVC roof installed. Warranted not to leak for 15 years, then a free inspection, and an additional 5 years. Several businesses we have contacted are happy with it.

Is it possible to pull back the roofing, repair and reinstall the existing. Then a coating like Todd described? There are also dealers that can pressurize the inside, spray a soap solution and find any leaks. Have heard that it can be done for about $150.00. I have also heard of creative owners rigging up a pressure test themselves.

Good Luck
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerTime
I wonder if a fella could do a sheet metal roof and corners like some of the high end horse trailers and race car trailers. I know the corners are a.little more radiused but I would think a very durable material. Not the answer you were looking for but.... I would think the role out sheet of roofing would be easier to dry in but one pin hole and you are leaking again. The liquid may be a little harder to get 100% guaranteed coverage but a couple of coats and you would probably be safe, and wont scratch/tear as easy. I think it may be 6 of one half dozen of another!?
I can promise after working with the EPDM liquid rubber it would be next to impossible to not get complete and 100% guaranteed coverage with it. I was worried about the same thing, but this stuff is so thick and is truly self leveling. After blobbing (cause it certainly isn't painting) it on and smoothing it out, it still remains very thick. It's rare I tout a product, but I am truly impressed by this stuff. The EPDM liquid rubber (and liquid would be an exaggeration because it's so thick) is one of those rare "it's really not too good to be true" products. My only concern is how long will it last. The advertised life is 10 to 15 years. Time will tell!
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fkent1
If you have a choice between the 3, use TPO, best material.
Considering the roof as he mentioned is TPO, it might be best to stick with the original material. I can't say I would have used EPDM liquid rubber if my TT didn't have an EPDM rubber roof originally.
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EPDM Rubber Roof Installation - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbraK...hannel&list=UL Pulled by a 2002 Chevy Avalanche, 496cid Rat motor, 12k Lb. tow package, leveling hitch, dual sway controls & electric brakes.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #10
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Recently saw this. Definately something most could do.

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Old 09-11-2012, 08:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by TexasBBQ
Recently saw this. Definately something most could do.

Exactly what I did last weekend. In fact that's one of the videos that convinced me that was the way for me to go. The only difference is that he says to mix the catalyst and wait 2 hours. The instructions don't mention anything about waiting. I mixed and then went right to applying. Not difficult to do at all. A little trick is not to fight the liquid rubber during application. Spread slow and methodically. Pushing the liquid rubber hard only makes it harder to apply. Just keep even pressure while applying. What I was really amazed about is how the coating remained thick and the roller marks simply disappear after a few minutes. What is left behind is this brilliant high gloss white rubber. I applied the liquid rubber on Sunday morning (here in Rowlett) and today I was able to walk on it. Another few days and it'll be fully cured.
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EPDM Rubber Roof Installation - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbraK...hannel&list=UL Pulled by a 2002 Chevy Avalanche, 496cid Rat motor, 12k Lb. tow package, leveling hitch, dual sway controls & electric brakes.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:30 PM   #12
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Todd - does your roof extend a few inches down on the left and right side? If so did the rubber stay put and not sag?
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:44 PM   #13
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EPDM Liquid Rubber sag

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasBBQ View Post
Todd - does your roof extend a few inches down on the left and right side? If so did the rubber stay put and not sag?
The original EPDM rubber folds over the roof edge and down the side but only about 1/4 of an inch. Then it has a full length rail, the kind that has the rounded rubber insert (don't know what they call it) slid into it once the screws are in place to pinch the EPDM rubber against the side of the trailer. There's a rain gutter on both sides (again full length of the trailer) that is just below the rail. What I did when I applied is to clean about 6" of the roof line on top and down onto that rail all the way around the trailer. Then I purchased a 1 gallon can of EPDM liquid rubber and painted (as mentioned more like blobbing) it all the way around and over the edge. Most of the rubber just sticks and as long as it's not an excessive amount, it didn't drip or run. It stuck pretty good right where it was. Now that's not to say some didn't run or sag. Where I applied too much, it did, but it ran into the rain gutter. Once cured I used a flat head screw driver and dug it out. That only happened in 2 places. Other than that it all stuck. Now the front and back are a little different. The front has the same rail as the sides but it's on the upward curve of the front of the trailer. This means any water getting past the rubber insert could get into the rails and into the screw holes. This is where I believe my front water leaks were coming from. I blobbed the EPDM liquid rubber over the entire top of it right over onto the metal on the other side of the rail. There is one area where the EPDM liquid rubber ran a bit but it's not visible from the ground so I don't really care. The back EPDM rubber is pinched by an aluminum angle that runs the entire back of the trailer. I EPDM liquid rubbered right to the back edge of it. No need to go down the side of it. The stuff stuck like glue and sealed the entire roof. Now someone might say "but now you can't get the roof off if you have a major repair". Nope, not true. This rubber can be cut just like any other rubber. It's very difficult, but a good box cutter will cut through it and then it's just a matter of pealing off the cut out area. I've got to cut a hole in the roof when I add my vents for my black and gray water tanks so it'll be interesting to see just how thick a coat I put on the top. I wouldn't try and use it on a large side area as it may be too heavy for that, but for just over the edge, it worked fine. EPDM Coatings gives a $150.00 AMEX gift certificate for testimonials, pictures, and video of the EPDM liquid rubber. I uploaded all three last night but will be posting the video on YouTube here shortly. I'll add a URL to my signature line when I have that done. It's a really great product and no, I don't own stock in the company - but wish I did! With the $150.00 AMEX gift certificate that effectively brings my new roof down to about $220.00
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EPDM Rubber Roof Installation - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbraK...hannel&list=UL Pulled by a 2002 Chevy Avalanche, 496cid Rat motor, 12k Lb. tow package, leveling hitch, dual sway controls & electric brakes.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:39 PM   #14
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Ok - sounds like it's thick enough that if applied with the proper loading it won't run. I've got about a 3 inch rollover on both sides of the roof. Looking at other campers that seems to be fairly typicall.

I wonder if letting it set for a couple hours after mixing helps it thicken up a bit.

My roof is in good shape now but when the time comes this might be an option. Let us know when you post the vid.

Cheers
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasBBQ View Post
Ok - sounds like it's thick enough that if applied with the proper loading it won't run. I've got about a 3 inch rollover on both sides of the roof. Looking at other campers that seems to be fairly typicall.

I wonder if letting it set for a couple hours after mixing helps it thicken up a bit.

My roof is in good shape now but when the time comes this might be an option. Let us know when you post the vid.

Cheers
I think I'd go the opposite direction - roll it on and press on it pretty good to thin it out a bit, then go over it again to make it thicker. The heavier it is, the more likely it may run or sag. It's sort of one of those things you'll just have to try I suppose. Using a brush may also be the best way to apply it. I've posted the video on YouTube - here's the link -

I hope the information helps those like you thinking of future maintenance needs. I'm really happy with the outcome.

Have a good weekend.
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EPDM Rubber Roof Installation - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbraK...hannel&list=UL Pulled by a 2002 Chevy Avalanche, 496cid Rat motor, 12k Lb. tow package, leveling hitch, dual sway controls & electric brakes.
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