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Old 09-05-2014, 03:47 PM   #1
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Eternabond...Is it just me?

I am waiting on my new Lexan skylight to replace a cracked one, and am researching the best option for the new sealant. The original Dicor (trailer is a 2013) was not sticking to the old skylight (acrylic?) at all. Neither Dicor or Eternabond's websites mention using their products on either type of plastic.

Anyway...is it just me, or does the Eternabond website read just like a late night infomercial? I can practically hear Billy Mays shouting it out as I read. It kinda turns me off from an otherwise highly recommended product.

Anyone with experience sealing Lexan have any recommendations? TIA
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:53 PM   #2
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I've never seen something Eternabond wouldn't stick to. Never tried it on a skylight. You wiped the surface as per instructions? Wish I could help but don't have any experience with the skylights other than getting rid of them or blacking them out.
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:55 PM   #3
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Thank you for your help. To clarify, I have not yet installed (or even received) my new (solid white Lexan) skylight. The non-sticking seal I was referring to was the factory sealant I removed when pulling the cracked original skylight out. I am trying to do a better job than they did this time around.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:06 PM   #4
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Ok. I hadn't used the stuff in a while, but when I did, I did remove all the old dicor first, then put the tape over the seem. I kind of like it, but don't use it much anymore. When it does stick, it is almost impossible to get off. I prefer using dicor or Liquid Roof. Ever since I've had the liquid roof on the seams, I quit using eternabond. Everybody has their own preference and reasons.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenImp View Post
I am waiting on my new Lexan skylight to replace a cracked one, and am researching the best option for the new sealant. The original Dicor (trailer is a 2013) was not sticking to the old skylight (acrylic?) at all. Neither Dicor or Eternabond's websites mention using their products on either type of plastic.

Anyway...is it just me, or does the Eternabond website read just like a late night infomercial? I can practically hear Billy Mays shouting it out as I read. It kinda turns me off from an otherwise highly recommended product.

Anyone with experience sealing Lexan have any recommendations? TIA
I have replaced an acrylic skylight with a smoke tinted lexan skylight. I had to drill the matching screw holes, put a bead of butyl tape around the underside lip of the skylight and secured with the screws and installed 6" wide eternabond all the way around (allowing approximately 1 1/2 inch overlap of the skylight lip). 4" wide eternabond just didn't hack it. When I sold the unit 3 years later the skylight install was still perfect. Eternabond will not stick to the original sealent so be sure to remove it completely where the eternabond is expected to go. Be aware that lexan wont break but may be scratched easily. Anyway, worked for me and was a quick install minus the old sealent removal.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:22 AM   #6
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I was just getting ready to post a similar question here. I bought 2 50' rolls of eternabond tape to seal the roof edges of my work and play. Got about 10' done and realized it wasn't sticking to the sealant Forest River used. I'm not going to dig out the sealant so it sounds like dicor is the answer for sealing the edges. Any other suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:20 PM   #7
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I've now used Eterna-Bond tape and Dicor to re-seal the three (3) vents on the roof of my unit and the TV antennae mount on the top of my unit. The local RV sale/service place leaves a lot to be desired but the parts counter man did tell me that real trick to getting Eterna-Bond and/or Dicor to stick properly was to remove ALL the old sealant and to have a clean surface when starting the new sealing application. One thing he stressed to me was to use "denatured alcohol" to thoroughly clean all the surfaces that sealant would be in contact with. He also told a trick to remove the old Dicor/Dicor type material: Use a hair dryer on it's highest setting to warm up the old sealant and it would come off easier. He was correct on this one. The warmed old sealant came of using a plastic applicator as is used to apply Bondo to a car body. These are available at any auto paint shop for pennies each. I had no problem getting the Eterna-Bond tape to stick to either the rubber roofing material nor the "plastic" of each of the vents I was sealing up. After the Eterna-Bond tape had set up a few minutes, on a very warm day here, I applied the Dicor directly over the edge seams of the tape just to make sure I had a good seal. A good six months now and NO leaks around any of these vents.
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:15 PM   #8
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I used denatured alcohol to clean everything I was going to seal but found that the tape wouldn't stick to the old sealant. It stuck to the aluminum on both sides of it. Guess I may have to clean the old stuff out after all. Thanks for the tip on using the hair dryer.
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