Eternabond - the good, the bad, the ugly

[brianb]

I don't think the primer is required but this is straight from the manufacturer...
EternaPrime is used to prepare surfaces for application of all EternaBond tapes. Recommended uses include, but are not limited to dirty surfaces which are difficult to clean completely (tar and gravel), potentially loose surfaces (mortar), porous surfaces (wood or concrete), and anytime the EternaBond tape is applied at temperatures below 40°F ambient.

So it can only help but if you have a clean surface it may not be necessary. (that's how i read it)

[puckdad]

The instructions on my rolls stated that if you were going to install it in cold temps (4*Celcius) that you must use their primer.
Otherwise, acetone works just fine and seems to be the cleaner that most folks use.

Mike
BTW, nevermind with Home Hardware. So simple to order from the BestMaterials link I showed.
My two rolls of 4 X 50 ended up at $124CAN with shipping and taxes for crossing the border.

[Rugged Brown]

Originally Posted by mTn_biKer65

Is this the consensus that you MUST use the primer spray. All I've read so far says make sure it's clean using a non-silicone cleaner. I'd planned on using acetone but hadn't planned on getting the primer spray

p.s. Back to my previous post I checked my local Home Hardware here in Canada and they were familiar with the name Eternabond but didn't have it in stock and no offer was made to order it. Might be hit and miss because it is listed on the website.

I used Acetone, just wiped and let dry and apply, stuck like sh@$ to a blanket.

As for Home Hardware, the local store here carries 4' pieces only. No rolls.

[Herk7769]

I bought two cans of primer and initially tried to stretch the first can to do the entire job. I had some "failure to adhere" issues with the last seam because I did not spray the entire "stick area" completely. Never enough time (materials) to do it right; plenty to do it over.
I would never attempt this again without plenty of Primer on hand.

[MovinSue]

I did my entire roof, windows and 2 slides with Eternabond. Bought 3 rolls of 4" tape; (cut the 4" to 2" for windows) and tool for $120 inc shipping and still have a little left over from the 27' motorhome job. Rig was brand new so roof/slides in optimal condition for application of material.

Had one section "come up" in heavy winds through New Mexico and will have to address with the dealer on return.

In general, I am happy with Eternabond. The only thing I don't like is the appearance around windows; the goop that makes the bond is gray color and squeezes out the edges resulting in a poor appearance. However, no leaks (and no window drafts) are satisfactory tradeoffs.

[mapacam06]

I was wondering how your dealings with Best Materials was?

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by mapacam06

I was wondering how your dealings with Best Materials was?

If you're posting for puckdad because he linked to Best Materials, then your best bet is to send him a PM. Looks like he posted awhile ago.

Good luck!

[campbuzz98]

I thought you couldn't use petroleum distillates(acetone) on the rubber roof. It degrades it according to the manufacturer of thst rubber roof.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by campbuzz98

I thought you couldn't use petroleum distillates(acetone) on the rubber roof. It degrades it according to the manufacturer of thst rubber roof.

You need to prep the Dicor "to make it sticky" and clean the oxidized rubber from the roof material. Eternabond Primer is what is recommended by the manufacturer of the EB tape; however an Acetone damp rag works just as well. Just not too much and it evaporates immediately.

EternaPrime Spray Primer, 14 oz. Can

This is from the Best Materials web site FAQ:

Subject: Best EPDM Seam Construction

Q: I am re-doing my RV roof with white epdm. I will have a seam across it and I am having a hard time understanding which seam seal method I should use. Can you help me understand this?

1) 3" or 4" seam tape, with primer?

2) 4" double stick 60mil no primer ($57.95 for 50')?

3) Splice adhesive ($60.00 for 1 quart)

A: The best practice is to create a double lap-seam. It will out-live the roof. Create as follows:

1. clean, overlapping EPDM pieces, in preparation for 3" wide Doublestick. If you have an OLD roof surface, prime the surfaces first. New EPDM can be generally just cleaned well.

Insurance: Just prime both surfaces before applying Doublestick seam material.

2. apply use 3" Eternabond Doublestick Seam tape (Doublesided sticky tape sealant), and roll well.
3. Then cover the exposed seam edge with a piece of COVERSTIP TAPE (6" wide, EPDM faced peel/stick tape). PRIOR to applying this, clean surface and prime. Only prime in areas where the coverstrip will be exposed.

http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016

Now you have a double sealed seam, which will take foot traffic, and outlast the rest of the roof.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by mapacam06

I was wondering how your dealings with Best Materials was?

Great people and price.
Why do you ask?

[melk-man]

After having the caulk deteriorate every few years around the edge of the 1 piece aluminum roof on my 2005 - 8.5' x 24' v-nose race trailer, myself and a buddy spent 4 hours doing redoing it with endurabond. The most time was spent on the prep. used a electric hand held grinder with wire wheel on the old caulk AFTER scraping the majority of the caulk off with puddy knives. Found using the wire wheel in deep caulk just got the caulk hot and it flew all over. (you will ruin some clothes so be sure you are wearing old stuff).
Once the caulk was mostly removed, acetone with rags easily removed whatever was left. Knee pads are a must for this job by the way

We used 4" endurabond and it stuck very well. Even over some sheet metal screws that were all along the edge of the roof line.

Herk .. still trying to picture what you mean by a "double lap seam" . I do get on this roof from time to time putting up a huge canopy that attaches to the side of this trailer, interested in what you mean.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by melk-man

Herk .. still trying to picture what you mean by a "double lap seam" . I do get on this roof from time to time putting up a huge canopy that attaches to the side of this trailer, interested in what you mean.

I meant the original DICOR seal which should be solid and the EB tape which covers it and prevents it from drying out, cracking, or opening up a hole along the roof penetration.

A "double seal"

[BMWPilot]

I have a new 8329SS and have purchased Eternabond for the seams. Is it necessary to do the side seams? I read where some have pulled off the vinyl molding and stuck it on the metal and up over onto the roof but is this really a seam on the sides or just where the dicor is put to keep moisture out from under the trim on the side?

I have purchased enough to do the front and sides but am wondering if it is overkill. Tks!

[melk-man]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I meant the original DICOR seal which should be solid and the EB tape which covers it and prevents it from drying out, cracking, or opening up a hole along the roof penetration.

A "double seal"

ah ! that would have been a good idea had i done it years ago !

[BMWPilot]

Can anybody answer this question please?

Originally Posted by BMWPilot

I have a new 8329SS and have purchased Eternabond for the seams. Is it necessary to do the side seams? I read where some have pulled off the vinyl molding and stuck it on the metal and up over onto the roof but is this really a seam on the sides or just where the dicor is put to keep moisture out from under the trim on the side?

I have purchased enough to do the front and sides but am wondering if it is overkill. Tks!

[AGENT86]

I re-sealed most of the seams on my Rockwood, a 2006 model, last week. I used the Dicor Self-Leveling sealant. It's still a bit tacky. Can I apply this stuff over the newly applied Dicor? Also, if I were to get a small hole/tear in the rubber roof material, could I simply apply this tape over it and consider it repaired/sealed?

The reason I ask that, while on the roof, I noticed several areas where it appears there is either a screws popping up under the rubber, or, while applying the rubber roof at the factory, the person/persons doing the application left some debris on the roof & rolled the rubber right over it...like a doctor leaving surgical instruments inside a patient!

I actually found a couple spots that were an inch + long, and very thin, like a finishing nail, rivet, or some kind of scrap of roof material, that wasn't cleaned off. I'm worried these areas will eventually wear through the rubber, causing it to leak.

I wonder, should I apply the tape over those spots now, as a preemptive strike against the probability of penetration in the semi-near future? What say the good folks here?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by AGENT86

...I'm worried these areas will eventually wear through the rubber, causing it to leak. I wonder, should I apply the tape over those spots now, as a preemptive strike against the probability of penetration in the semi-near future? What say the good folks here?

If it were me, I would leave them alone and keep an eye on them. Shouldn't be any wear on them unless someone steps on them.

[Herk7769]

I would let the Dicor set for a month so the surface gets dry"er."

If there is junk under the membrane I would wait and if it does come through you can remove them prior to making your permanent Eternabond repair.

Nothing wrong with preventative application though. I put the left over seam tape under my antenna.

[AGENT86]

Yeah, I'll give it a month or so before I apply the tape. i guess I'll just keep an eye on those other areas. that's a good idea, putting that tape under the antenna! I'll have to do that...I noticed a small 'rub" in the rubber material caused by the antenna, your solution is most logical

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by AGENT86

your solution is most logical

Trust me; it's a curse...