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Old 09-21-2017, 09:43 AM   #1
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Front corner leak, no gone in small area -repair?

Purchased a used 2013 Shamrock and discovered a leak in the front corner that was likely there for YEARS. Stopped leak but floor and subfloor disolved into mush. There area is in a storage compartment and is about 5"x14" long in front corner and is from sidewall to frame. The floor is solid everywhere else. All that is left is bottom membrane. How should I repair this?

I don't think it's wise tear all the flooring out for a relatively small area. What do you all think about spray foaming the area to firm it up?
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:11 AM   #2
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Myself I would cut out the rotten stuff and replace, scary foam is not a structural item.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:13 AM   #3
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Might help to firm it up some.. I'd be tempted to put some plywood over it and re-cover with carpet. You'd have a lip there but at least it would be solid.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
There area is in a storage compartment and is about 5"x14" long in front corner and is from sidewall to frame.
I would cover over the area with some 1/2" plywood from the bottom, screw it up into some good wood... then seal with Thompsons or some other water sealer, then paint with a rubberized underbody paint...
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:23 AM   #5
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Not sure scary foam is a food item either.

Sorry couldn’t pass it up.

I would recover for a smooth floor of plywood, and carpet also.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:44 AM   #6
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good one typing fast and not proof reading
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:00 PM   #7
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FIRST. FIND AND STOP THE LEAK!

I am only addressing the floor repair, if you have damage on/in the walls from a leak in the roof that will be a whole new ball game.

I assume you have access to the top and the bottom. First, it is necessary to get rid of ALL the rotted wood, and with it, the microorganisms that are eating the wooden structure of your camper. Trim the edges so that you can easily measure and cut a replacement piece of wood accurately.

After that I would treat the edges that are left on ALL the affected areas with "Wood Hardener." Put it on and do not stop until the wood no longer absorbs any more. This will seal in any microorganisms left and prevent their return.

Now, make a template of cardboard or something similar of the missing piece. Transfer that to a piece of like thickness plywood and cut it out. Treat this too with the wood hardener. (I KNOW it is new wood but if the leak comes back this will help prevent it from rotting)

Now, from underneath fasten a piece of plywood larger than the missing piece so it can be used as a base for the replacement flooring Put the screws relatively close together (2" or so) so that it will support a bit of weight without falling.

You can now put a few of screws to hold the replacement floor piece you made to the backer beneath it. A bit of floor leveling compound or wood putty (to fill any gaps on the seams) sanded when it hardens and you can go about putting whatever flooring you want back on top.

Good Luck, let us know how it turns out
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:58 PM   #8
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The leak has been stopped and the area is all dried out. The area is only 5 x 18 inches.

The area in the front corner of a small compartment that doesn't have to hold any weight. I have removed all old rotted wood and trimmed the remaining wood so I can fit a new piece of plywood nicely for the top layer of wood where the flooring goes on top of.

The bottom layer is more difficult to trim. The bottom membrane is still intact and I am hesitant to cut it to access the bottom. Aluminum floor supports (at least thats what I think they are) separate the two layers of wood that rotted.

That's why I thinking using a closed cell spray foam to fill and firm up the bottom area and inserting a new piece of plywood on the top.
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:10 PM   #9
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Is it possible to leave the bottom membrane intact and put a piece of plywood below that to support the bottom layer?

As I understand it you then have an air gap the thickness of your aluminum bracing separating the upper floor and the bottom piece of wood?
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:11 PM   #10
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I don't think there is anything in the front or wall side to screw into from the bottom. It's just the wall there. And yes there would be an air gap to the upper floor.
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