I guess it is a roof leak - now what

[larry2c]

Just curious, does anyone know how long you can keep/use the leftover Eternabond? I don't want to get much more than I need unless I can keep the excess for emergency repairs.

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by Teetime

I had a similar situation with a previous TT, actually woke up one day with water dripping on my forehead!

After I found the leak, like you have, and re-caulked, I also had the same concerns...mainly mold or mildew going forward.

My investigations, with the manufacturer made me feel fairly confident that the wall boards, insulation, etc. would not soak up or maintain a lot of moisture.

To be sure, I ran a dehumidifier for a couple months and let it drain directly into the grey water sink drain.

I never did have any problem with peeling, or bubbles in the interior paneling.

I'm sure you're just looking to find a comfort level, so that's my story.

Good luck

Eternabond for sure. I don't trust Dicor, after many leaks in the first three years. I run a dehumidifier 24/7, as soon as temps are above freezing. This should pull moisture out of hidden places. Seal all marker lights. If you are going to keep the trailer for ten years or more, or are old enough not to want to spend a lot of time on the roof, Roof Armor is an expensive, but almost worry free solution.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by larry2c

Just curious, does anyone know how long you can keep/use the leftover Eternabond? I don't want to get much more than I need unless I can keep the excess for emergency repairs.

I have some 3 yr old. It is a little cold from being stored out in the garage that been staying 40 to 50 degrees this winter.

After checking it just now, the exposed edge is not sticky, peeling back the liner it seems to be maybe 1/4 as sticky as new.

I folded a piece over on itself and pressed it together between thumb and forefinger - it's not coming apart.

I then cut off a piece and placing the vinyl backing against the fresh adhesive, some of it is holding and some not. I have to re-check later after it warms to room temperature.


After warming to room temperature for an hour the tape is holding very well. The tape was stored unwrapped in a box so it seems nothing extra needs to be done for it to retain its sealing properties.

You can contact Eternabond with specific questions here : https://www.eternabond.com/articles.asp?id=209 or by phone listed on the same page.

[rsdata]

I had some left over... I wrapped it in foil, then a zip lock bag. About 2.5 years later I used every bit of it, about 12 feet on another repair without a problem... however it was in hot weather, not cold.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by larry2c

Just curious, does anyone know how long you can keep/use the leftover Eternabond? I don't want to get much more than I need unless I can keep the excess for emergency repairs.

I got a scrap from a friend that was a couple of years old. After a few more years I had have had to repair small gashes in the roof membrane caused by falling branches. Adhesion was fine.

I had to apply some new stuff Thanksgiving weekend. It was probably 65 degrees and adhesion was fine.

Just be sure to roll it out well. In an emergency, if you don't have a roller, a deep-well socket will work.

Larry

[larry2c]

OK, I'll say 2 years is getting towards the end of life. Thanks for testing for me!

BTW, it looks like 6" tape is what I need to have a good margin of safety - thanks for the suggestion on cutting some cardboard to check for sure "other Larry"!

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by larry2c

OK, I'll say 2 years is getting towards the end of life. Thanks for testing for me!



BTW, it looks like 6" tape is what I need to have a good margin of safety - thanks for the suggestion on cutting some cardboard to check for sure "other Larry"!

I hope not. I bought some about 3 years ago or more and it stuck fine this summer (above 70 degrees). I have over 20 ft left, unused.

[nayther]

Originally Posted by PSU Turf

Before applying Eternabond I used a heat gun and scraper to remove the old caulk. Every bit of it came off. It worked out a lot better than trying to go over old caulk.

ditto

[larry2c]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

I hope not. I bought some about 3 years ago or more and it stuck fine this summer (above 70 degrees). I have over 20 ft left, unused.

OK, I'll revise my timeline to 3 years and maybe more! Thanks for the info

BTW, I have the roll of Eternabond coming but so is the next rain storm so I decided to take a look at that roof seam by where I found the water. Since it was suggested that I trim the globs down before putting the tape on I went up on the roof with a knife and some Dicor to try and make sure nothing more got in from this storm. When I trimmed some of the old goop off, I found the screw it was covering was rusty and all wet. Guess I know one spot that was leaking! I'll do the remaining trim & tape once the weather clears again.

Thanks to all for the suggestions & answers!

[AbdRahim]

I know it is a cost issue but, they could use stainless steel screws. I would be glad to pay the $20 extra.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

I know it is a cost issue but, they could use stainless steel screws. I would be glad to pay the $20 extra.

Yes, when I replaced the broken skylight, I found some rusting screws, too.

There are so many parts in trailer construction that just aren't designed to stand up to heat, cold, rain, or UV from sunlight.

All the external white plastic parts (porch lights, marker lights, range hood vent, gutter drip extenders, outlet covers, plumbing vent caps) turn yellow after two years and crumble away after five years. The only exception is the white panel outside the Dometic refrigerator. If Dometic can make a part that doesn't yellow, why can't anyone else?

Screws (under Dicor or even Eternabond) begin rusting eventually.

Rain gutters are put up in segments and invariably start leaking at the gaps.

Skylights are made from polycarbonate (e.g., Lexan) and yellow in just a few years.

It's as if the designers just don't care.

Larry

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Yes, when I replaced the broken skylight, I found some rusting screws, too.

There are so many parts in trailer construction that just aren't designed to stand up to heat, cold, rain, or UV from sunlight.

All the external white plastic parts (porch lights, marker lights, range hood vent, gutter drip extenders, outlet covers, plumbing vent caps) turn yellow after two years and crumble away after five years. The only exception is the white panel outside the Dometic refrigerator. If Dometic can make a part that doesn't yellow, why can't anyone else?

Screws (under Dicor or even Eternabond) begin rusting eventually.

Rain gutters are put up in segments and invariably start leaking at the gaps.

Skylights are made from polycarbonate (e.g., Lexan) and yellow in just a few years.

It's as if the designers just don't care.

Larry

Skylights are made from polycarbonate, just not the Lexan type. Skylights crack too easily. We used 3/16" lexan for windows in the control tower for the car shredder, they were getting hit daily by flying chunks of metal. Some flying so fast you would not see them hit.


Here's a couple of views out the window while the shredder is running. If you click on the images you can see the pock marks from the projectiles.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Skylights are made from polycarbonate, just not the Lexan type. Skylights crack too easily. We used 3/16" lexan for windows in the control tower for the car shredder, they were getting hit daily by flying chunks of metal. Some flying so fast you would not see them hit.

FR used 1/16" polycarbonate for the skylights (flat ones on the slideouts). I replaced the broken one with 1/8". I expect that when it ages a little and the pine-branch missiles start falling, it will probably break too.

Larry

[larry2c]

Pretty cool view scrapper - I've watched videos of cars getting shredded and to me it is pretty darn amazing. I've spent most of my working career making aircraft parts so I'm pretty aware of the power required to chew up scrap - awesome!

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by larry2c

Pretty cool view scrapper - I've watched videos of cars getting shredded and to me it is pretty darn amazing. I've spent most of my working career making aircraft parts so I'm pretty aware of the power required to chew up scrap - awesome!

2x 2500HP, 600vdc motors turning 600rpm. The motors are rebuilt GE-D32 generators from diesel locomotives. They are connected end to end for 5000HP total.

[estott1]

I ran into what seems like the exact issue with a tt I bought used. The seller said he had a leak at one time (same place as you described) but goobered up the corner of the roof with rv roof goober. said no sign of leak since. I did notice a large tarp on the ground next to it when I showed up, he said he covered the camper with it. It was in great condition other wise so we bought it thinking I can reseal it if need be. We took it camping a few weeks later and it rained a lot. and it started leaking a lot in the upper corner of the front closet. We took it home, I pulled the front roof tin forward and peeled back the front part of the rubber roof to find massively rotted roof framing. During the disassembly of the edge moldings I found quite a few places where the sealer never connected and water had a free run right into the inside. It was an extensive repair but I was able to do it myself due to my woodworking abilities.
So you may want to pull your edge moldings if you are unable to see a definite leakage point. I took some pics to remind me of my lack of due diligence. The camper was great after that repair and we enjoyed it. till we upgraded.

[larry2c]

Thanks for that info estott1 - I'm going to try the leak detection/soapy water method to see if I can narrow things down. I'll keep the edge mouldings in mind as I'm going through this.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by estott1

I ran into what seems like the exact issue with a tt I bought used. The seller said he had a leak at one time (same place as you described) but goobered up the corner of the roof with rv roof goober. said no sign of leak since. I did notice a large tarp on the ground next to it when I showed up, he said he covered the camper with it. It was in great condition other wise so we bought it thinking I can reseal it if need be. We took it camping a few weeks later and it rained a lot. and it started leaking a lot in the upper corner of the front closet. We took it home, I pulled the front roof tin forward and peeled back the front part of the rubber roof to find massively rotted roof framing. During the disassembly of the edge moldings I found quite a few places where the sealer never connected and water had a free run right into the inside. It was an extensive repair but I was able to do it myself due to my woodworking abilities.
So you may want to pull your edge moldings if you are unable to see a definite leakage point. I took some pics to remind me of my lack of due diligence. The camper was great after that repair and we enjoyed it. till we upgraded.

Almost exactly the same scenario. GF bought the trailer with leaks (front and rear) where the end caps join the roof and leaks from the awning gutter clamps (seen this on multiple units). Her friends had put lots of useless Dicor in some of the areas. I'm replacing the roof decking, rebuilding the trusses and replacing the stringer around the edges and insulation. I may have to replace some of the interior ceiling as well.

Not enough is written about the awful gutter clamps. Instead of lag screws, I'm going to use hanger bolts with a nut, washer, and butyl tape against the trailer siding and a second nut and washer on the clamp.

Larry

[larry2c]

Larry NC - in the picks I posted (and I circled the spot in the pic below) there is a glob of putty (not Dicor - more like plumbers putty) at the junction of the forward cap seal/roof seal/gutter end. I haven't peeled this off yet but is this where the gutter mount you were mentioning would be located?

After I put the Eternabond tape on the forward roof to cap joint I plan on sealing the sides as well. Would that eliminate the issue with the gutter you saw on your RV or is there more to it?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by larry2c

Larry NC - in the picks I posted (and I circled the spot in the pic below) there is a glob of putty (not Dicor - more like plumbers putty) at the junction of the forward cap seal/roof seal/gutter end. I haven't peeled this off yet but is this where the gutter mount you were mentioning would be located?

After I put the Eternabond tape on the forward roof to cap joint I plan on sealing the sides as well. Would that eliminate the issue with the gutter you saw on your RV or is there more to it?

Good question. When you run the Eternabond, it would look neat and professional to stop at the end of the structure, but it will be more weathertight to go all the way to the side.

I did have an issue in that area, but I was actually referring to something different.

At the ends of the awning roller are brackets that span the rain gutter. Each bracket has one or two lag screws above the gutter and one or two below the gutter. There is little or no sealing where the screws penetrate the side of the trailer. Water eventually starts creeping in along these screws. From the upper screws it soaks the 1x2 stringer that goes across the ends of the trusses and then wicks up into the roof decking.

I've seen this on both our trailers and I am mystified as to why they keep using those brackets.

Larry