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Old 06-01-2015, 07:33 PM   #1
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Lap seal - used to laugh, not anymore

<vent = on>
<frustration gate emergency blow safety = off>

Back when this forum was new, and I was new to RVing, and my trailer was new, newbies like me would post general inquires about what sort of stuff to bring along on a typical RV camping trip.

Like 5 nights in a state park.

Along with gas powered leaf blowers, air compressors, 11 drawer Snap-On tool box and two hydraulic jacks there would be the guy who carries a couple of tubes of DICOR lap seal and a caulking gun.

I used snicker at all of that. Including the lap seal.

But that was then and this is now. My 8 year old Forest River product is showing it's age and it's built in defects are surfacing. There were a few in the first few months and I got them nailed. The a few years of quiet.

Now I have had several hard to find leaks and some caused delamination. Each time I finally found the leak it was the same story... if the guy at the factory had just taken the time to do his job right then all would have been OK.

But he didn't. And the quality of some materials could be a lot better. A product should last as least as long as the consumers bank note, don't you think?

So now I'm ordering up two tubes of lap seal. One to fix the leak that just delaminated my rear wall. The other goes in the storage bay.

And to the newbies, better get that DICOR lap seal. And keep it on board.

<vent = off>
<frustration gate emergency blow safety = on>


<reality mode = resync>

But the inside still looks nice and all the systems work. Most of the outside looks OK too. We'll camp in it until the wheels fall off the camper, or me, which ever comes first. If anybody asks about the delamination, then we'll just say "She's a Forest River and she's X years old. Yours will look like that"
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:55 PM   #2
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I found the marker lights to be a source of leaking problems. The sealant used was cracking at the top creating a place for water to enter. Fortunately I caught it in time. Don't know if it is a manufacturing problem or possible material aging and torsion on the marker frame.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:03 PM   #3
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This latest one is around the fridge roof vent. There was a bubble in the lap sealant. The bubble (finally) burst, leaving a marble sized "drain hole" there. As this is a rear kitchen with the fridge in the back the water ran down the inside of the rear cap.

Didn't notice anything until the rear cap had delaminated.

I looked at all the lights and windows, and from what I can see they seem to be OK.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio View Post
This latest one is around the fridge roof vent. There was a bubble in the lap sealant. The bubble (finally) burst, leaving a marble sized "drain hole" there. As this is a rear kitchen with the fridge in the back the water ran down the inside of the rear cap.

Didn't notice anything until the rear cap had delaminated.

I looked at all the lights and windows, and from what I can see they seem to be OK.
I've got a trailer like your'se..had any issues with the Dicor where the front cap meets the side wall, just where the front side of the vinyl trim/track covers that edge...standing along the side,facing the pass-thru, at the front/side edge the Dicor has cracked on both sides...flexing? I see this pretty often on 5er's.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:17 PM   #5
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roof area leaks

Been fixing RV roof leaks for 35 years. The newest sealers are great for a time. Southern owners should be checking their roof sealer every year. Dicor will last about two years, more time up North. Most water entry is found in the four corners of an RV. The Dicor will look great but due to the torqueing of the large box of a body it will loosen and pull and return when the RV is sitting at rest. If there is a bubble it means water has already penetrated. puncture the bubble and see if water comes out . Never just put Dicor OVER the old Dicor. It will not permanently stick. Clean the old Dicor off the roof and clean roof.Before installing New . Todays sun causes havoc on plastic domes and roof sealers. We have been using the new roof tapes over the front transition mldg and rear mldg. it goes down easy sticks very well if installed per instructions and the moisture in the sealer wont dry up due to the rubber tape that is bonded to the sealer. It works real nice around vents also.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:29 PM   #6
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hillsdaletc,
U said it, that is the correct way to stop every rv roof leak, getting rid of the lap sealant, self leveling caulking and replace with a 4" fiber backed seam tape that accepts a coating, that's how we are able to give the warranty's.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:35 PM   #7
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If the lap sealant, self leveling caulking causes the problem, then why put it back on? get rid of it,
use a 4" fiber backed seam tape that accepts a coating and coat, never have to inspect your seams again.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:58 PM   #8
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If the lap sealant, self leveling caulking causes the problem, then why put it back on? get rid of it,
use a 4" fiber backed seam tape that accepts a coating and coat, never have to inspect your seams again.
RVroofer; can you give us a brand of fiber tape and coating. If I lived in Fla. I'd have you re do my roof asap and ward off future issues, but I'm up here in NY so it'll be DIY.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #9
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I am very appreciative of this site and have been lurking a bit. Finally registered and this is my first post! I have a 2011 Surveyor Eco-Lite and having some delimitation issues pretty bad. Out of warranty so looking to repair myself (I am a mechanic by trade so not too worried about the workman's warranty .

Question I have is...do you guys who find and fix these leaks also fix the delam bubble? How would you go about this? There aren't exactly a lot of manufacturers manuals like for cars on these things. I have thought my roof was solid but sounds like I need to look at it with a fine tooth comb.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:18 PM   #10
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I've always carried extra Dicor and other repair stuff ... when someone has an issue, you'd be surprised how fast you become someones new best friend

The first thing I've always done on any trailer we have bought has been to go over all the room seams thoroughly with Dicor lap sealant and touch up or repair any that look questionable, along with generally adding more to skimpy applied areas. In my mind it's cheap insurance and peace of mind.

Another area to always check seasonally is the silicone/putty around the top of windows and openings ... seen a lot of delam caused by people not checking them.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:40 PM   #11
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rvroofer...
you mentioned twice this product... care to share what it is?

Quote:
use a 4" fiber backed seam tape that accepts a coating and coat, never have to inspect your seams again.
thx for the info...
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
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rvroofer...
you mentioned twice this product... care to share what it is?



thx for the info...
Yes, RVROOFER, Inquiring minds want to know.... what is this miracle product you allude to?

I'm guessing it is some thing you have a connection with, as in, you have developed it and are marketing it perhaps?

Anyway, please enlighten us.
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:27 AM   #13
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Did a google search and came up with what I believe is HIS Facebook page...

I suspect that his fiber-backed tape is part of his roofing system that he uses for roof repairs... maybe he has it custom made? or uses some off-the-shelf product then covers it with another product.

https://www.facebook.com/NeverLeakRVRoofing

more power to him if it works...
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:29 AM   #14
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I carry a tube now, as well as a small roll of eternabond, after having a large pine tree branch arrow down into the roof. All I could find locally at the time in the middle of the Wind River range was silicone. It worked at the time. (Pain having to lower the roof fix and raise again.)
When I returned home, I removed it and applied Dicor, and the a 4x4 inch eternabond patch.
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:25 AM   #15
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Yes, it is manufactured in Canada along with the coating and the primer, the combo of all three is how we are able to get the warranties we do, all i know if the lap sealant, self leveling caulking caused the roof leak why put it back on, and keep climbing on your rv roof multiple times a year to inspect it.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:24 PM   #16
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Yes, it is manufactured in Canada along with the coating and the primer, the combo of all three is how we are able to get the warranties we do, all i know if the lap sealant, self leveling caulking caused the roof leak why put it back on, and keep climbing on your rv roof multiple times a year to inspect it.
And yet we still don't know what it is called or where to purchase.

rvroofer, are the three items you spoke of (4" fiber tape, coating and primer) available from you or your company? (or anyone else for that matter?)
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:40 PM   #17
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And yet we still don't know what it is called or where to purchase.

rvroofer, are the three items you spoke of (4" fiber tape, coating and primer) available from you or your company? (or anyone else for that matter?)
www.fibertapecoatingandprimer.com

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Old 09-23-2015, 05:59 PM   #18
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This spring I'm going to be cleaning up all the dicor I've applied and use 4" or 6" Ethernabond to have a permanent solution.

Dicor (self-leveling & non-leveling) and Ethernabond should be in every RV'ers toolbox.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I found the marker lights to be a source of leaking problems. T
The inside of my front closet was getting wet. After multiple trips up on the roof with the caulk gun, I finally checked out the marker light. I tiny little crack in the caulk was causing the problem.

Another place to check and caulk is the area between the bottom back of the fridge and trailer side.
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:37 PM   #20
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And yet we still don't know what it is called or where to purchase.

rvroofer, are the three items you spoke of (4" fiber tape, coating and primer) available from you or your company? (or anyone else for that matter?)
yes Brentwood coatings...
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