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Old 09-22-2016, 11:53 AM   #1
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Need help putting screws into outside wall

I need some help from the experts, Iíve been searching on and off for a week or so.

I bought some door holdbacks for my Rockwood 2604, but Iím concerned about water intrusion once I drill holes and put screws into trailer. The holdback has an irregular shape on the inside and is not completely closed off to the weather. I was at a local dealer, and noticed that the manufacturer (not FR) had used some sort of sealant tape behind the same holdback that I purchased. I donít know what it is, and I even called 3M to see if they could helpÖ. they claimed to not have a product for my application.

Can anyone give me detailed instruction on how to seal up screws to ensure the threat of delam is kept to a minimum?


Here is a link to the holdbacks that I purchased:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:12 PM   #2
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When we installed my washer/dryer vent, we put buytl tape behind it. This is the same stuff you'll find around doors and windows.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834.../dp/B001FCB4JS
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:54 PM   #3
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Use butyl tape like ependydad says. Remember you are going through 1 layer of fiberglass. Don't go hogwild with the screwdriver! The butyl tape will compress and stick the fixtures to the TT. Two finger tight. Go back and two finger tight again after a couple hours. By the 3rd time, leave it alone! I see these are the old "T" style latches and you probably got rid of the air cylinder as I did. My challenge was the tilt out window that interfered with the back door where I used the 6" variety.
Door side notes:
You can remove the putty under the opening, but leave enough to seal the flat surfaces. I left a small gap between the bottom screws on the door side fixture. When I installed that piece, I inserted a tie wrap in the gap, did my final tightening on the screws and pulled the tie wrap out. That way the water drains out of that door fixture when it rains. Otherwise, it holds water.
Coach side note:
Same deal, forget the space for the water drain, BUT remove an area behind the axle and t-bar. When you do the tightening sequence the caulk will migrate in that area and it will not be totally free and will appear gummy
Did you remember to buy the bumpers? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do not make screw holes in the tape, let the screw do it during insertion. If you do this right with the bumpers, they will locate in one of the coach fixture mounting holes at the upper left and when you swing open the door will contact the door fixture at the upper right screw hole. Tape in place, use square and measure. It probably took a couple hours by the time I got done with it all. Take your time
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:59 PM   #4
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I added a new door holder and just used clear silicon to seal on the door and TT. I added the silicon to the holder, then screwed them in, then wiped off excess.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:00 PM   #5
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3M makes a product called marine 5200 sealant(I think) i have used it on several jobs and it works great. Only drawback I have seen is that it dries slow.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff64 View Post
Use butyl tape like ependydad says. Remember you are going through 1 layer of fiberglass. Don't go hogwild with the screwdriver! The butyl tape will compress and stick the fixtures to the TT. Two finger tight. Go back and two finger tight again after a couple hours. By the 3rd time, leave it alone! I see these are the old "T" style latches and you probably got rid of the air cylinder as I did. My challenge was the tilt out window that interfered with the back door where I used the 6" variety.
Door side notes:
You can remove the putty under the opening, but leave enough to seal the flat surfaces. I left a small gap between the bottom screws on the door side fixture. When I installed that piece, I inserted a tie wrap in the gap, did my final tightening on the screws and pulled the tie wrap out. That way the water drains out of that door fixture when it rains. Otherwise, it holds water.
Coach side note:
Same deal, forget the space for the water drain, BUT remove an area behind the axle and t-bar. When you do the tightening sequence the caulk will migrate in that area and it will not be totally free and will appear gummy
Did you remember to buy the bumpers? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do not make screw holes in the tape, let the screw do it during insertion. If you do this right with the bumpers, they will locate in one of the coach fixture mounting holes at the upper left and when you swing open the door will contact the door fixture at the upper right screw hole. Tape in place, use square and measure. It probably took a couple hours by the time I got done with it all. Take your time
When I did the same mod I also purchased a 3" bumper/stopper and positioned it so the door cannot contact the window even when fully extended.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
3M makes a product called marine 5200 sealant(I think) i have used it on several jobs and it works great. Only drawback I have seen is that it dries slow.
5200 is a permanent marine adhesive. It should never be used where the item may have to be removed someday. It is primarily used on boats on things like hull/deck joints and is wonderful for those kind of purposes. They also make a 4200 adhesive which is a bit easier to remove...but still a pain! The best choice for the job at hand is simple butyl since adhesion is not a requirement and the butyl will keep the water out and stay flexible in a wide range of temperatures.
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
5200 is a permanent marine adhesive. It should never be used where the item may have to be removed someday. It is primarily used on boats on things like hull/deck joints and is wonderful for those kind of purposes. They also make a 4200 adhesive which is a bit easier to remove...but still a pain! The best choice for the job at hand is simple butyl since adhesion is not a requirement and the butyl will keep the water out and stay flexible in a wide range of temperatures.
Heh, back when I did some kayak building- there was a saying:

- if you hate your future self, use 4200
- if you really your future self, use 5200

Or something like that. I have a tube of it that I literally am afraid to use!
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:13 PM   #9
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I just used silicone when I put in the rails on my slide covers. I also made sure that each screw was set in silicone.

Do not go crazy with the screw length... the walls are only 1" thick so it does not take much to run all the way through.

So folks remove the gas cylinders on the doors? Had not been too bothered by those yet. But I will keep this in mind for when the cylinder mounts get too bent
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Heh, back when I did some kayak building- there was a saying:

- if you hate your future self, use 4200
- if you really your future self, use 5200

Or something like that. I have a tube of it that I literally am afraid to use!
LOL That's funny. I just know it works. Water IS the ENEMY
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