New flooring advice

[Hoyt]

I've done some searching and don't really fine anything current or relevant to my current task.

I have a 2013 Rockwood 2604 WS in which I need to replace the flooring. A couple of things concern me about this. The first is getting a clean finish on the slide. I've got a few ideas there and I'm pretty comfortable with that. The major concern I have is the slide ramping up onto the main flooring. I plan to use Allure plank style, floating not glued. I've read where many folks have used it without issue, but I've also read many that have had problems with slide scratching or marking new floor.

Any opinions in respect to the maximum thickness of the new flooring? I think the Allure is 5-6mm or about 1/4. Any advice to complete the slide transition?

All advice and ideas welcome.

[TitanMike]

I've found the secret to not having the slide mark up the floor in my TT is to make sure I've CLEANED the floor before retracting.

Not just sweeping but hit the floor with my Swiffer Wet Jet to make sure no dirt is on the floor to be ground in.

Starting my 3rd season and not a single mark yet.


As for the transition at the slide edge I'd make sure the floor absolutely can't be caught by the slide itself as it retracts. Depending on slide design there may be a metal strip that provides transition. If not consider securing edge with staples, nails, or adhesive. Let it "float" on the other side under the molding.

My flooring has plank lines running front to rear. If I were to replace floor I'd run the lines side to side. According to the people that re-floored my house, the lines should run towards the light (natural) and since I have no windows on front or rear, side to side would fit that description. Also, this could also make the TT look "wider".

Just sharing what I was told by flooring pro's.

[Hoyt]

Started here

And got to here in about 4.5 hours.

[TitanMike]

That long on my hands and knees and I'd just lay down and spend the night.
By morning I might be able to get up

Looks good.

[Hoyt]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I've found the secret to not having the slide mark up the floor in my TT is to make sure I've CLEANED the floor before retracting.

Not just sweeping but hit the floor with my Swiffer Wet Jet to make sure no dirt is on the floor to be ground in.

Starting my 3rd season and not a single mark yet.


As for the transition at the slide edge I'd make sure the floor absolutely can't be caught by the slide itself as it retracts. Depending on slide design there may be a metal strip that provides transition. If not consider securing edge with staples, nails, or adhesive. Let it "float" on the other side under the molding.

My flooring has plank lines running front to rear. If I were to replace floor I'd run the lines side to side. According to the people that re-floored my house, the lines should run towards the light (natural) and since I have no windows on front or rear, side to side would fit that description. Also, this could also make the TT look "wider".

Just sharing what I was told by flooring pro's.

I have heard that about the lines also...But I think I'm gonna do it the same way you did.
The leading edge of my slide has a taper that ramps up the black plastic strip that runs the length.


At each end of the slide there is a plastic strip that it slides on.

For about the first half of the travel it clears the main floor but then teeters over and makes contact.
The original flooring (carpet and vinyl) went under the black strip which is how I will install the plank flooring I think. You might have noticed holes in the strip. it was screwed down through the flooring. I'd likely start on the slide side and let the floor float toward other side. As for on the slide, I believe I'll add a 1/4 inch subfloor that will extend out to the edge of the black strip.

Sorry for the orientation of the photos. I tried a few different things to get them right but failed.

thoughts?

[TitanMike]

Looks and sounds like you are on the right path.

Look forward to progress and finished pics

[Hoyt]

Hey Mike, I tried the Beverly Beach site you suggested but no room for our dates. Trip is coming quick, 2 weeks or so.

I've been done for a while.







Real happy with the flooring project.

[parise]

I know this reply is to a post 2 years ago. Hope you are still active and enjoying your 'new' floor.
I have a 2006 Sunseeker 2860DS with 2 slides and am in the process of remodeling the interior and adding amenities we've always wanted.

Flooring is on the list. Replacing living room (LR), hallway, and bathroom which is covered in carpeting in the LR and the rest in vinyl. My LR has an elevated slide, 2-3 inches, and my dealer says its a good candidate for wood plank flooring since flush slides may scratch the coach floor. My slide is always elevated, retracted or extended.

I would not put new flooring on the LR slide. It is carpeted and has been covered by a jack knife sofa which we have replaced as part of the remodel with a RECPRO 70" double recliner. I would probably start my planks on the slide out side. I hope the Allure installation would involve a glue to the floor solution for staying put or possibly staples in fins - if that's possible.

My question is how has the Allure flooring withstood travel and temperatures? Scratches?

My coach is 30'6" and I would keep the rear bedroom and cockpit carpeted.

I have installed floating, snap and click interlocking, wood composite flooring previously. And, I completely renovated a rental home, except for electricity and plumbing, by myself. Plus, I remodeled my first home by myself. I think I can handle this job by myself.

Your advice and thoughts are appreciated!

Thank you
Chris

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by parise

I know this reply is to a post 2 years ago. Hope you are still active and enjoying your 'new' floor.
I have a 2006 Sunseeker 2860DS with 2 slides and am in the process of remodeling the interior and adding amenities we've always wanted.

Flooring is on the list. Replacing living room (LR), hallway, and bathroom which is covered in carpeting in the LR and the rest in vinyl. My LR has an elevated slide, 2-3 inches, and my dealer says its a good candidate for wood plank flooring since flush slides may scratch the coach floor. My slide is always elevated, retracted or extended.

I would not put new flooring on the LR slide. It is carpeted and has been covered by a jack knife sofa which we have replaced as part of the remodel with a RECPRO 70" double recliner. I would probably start my planks on the slide out side. I hope the Allure installation would involve a glue to the floor solution for staying put or possibly staples in fins - if that's possible.

My question is how has the Allure flooring withstood travel and temperatures? Scratches?

My coach is 30'6" and I would keep the rear bedroom and cockpit carpeted.

I have installed floating, snap and click interlocking, wood composite flooring previously. And, I completely renovated a rental home, except for electricity and plumbing, by myself. Plus, I remodeled my first home by myself. I think I can handle this job by myself.

Your advice and thoughts are appreciated!

Thank you
Chris

Actually, this reply was made to a thread posted less than 2 months ago -- 07-20-2019, 11:07 AM.

[Hoyt]

I missed the post from parise. As far as travel goes everything is fine. It hasn’t been cold enough yet to determine how it stands up. Scratches, I put carpet strips down where the slide contacts the floor at each end. However, after intstall in I need to move the slide out about 6 inches to get into the bathroom from the back. During a grocery stop we move the slide back an forth about 3 times and when we got to our next stop i saw some deep scratches in the middle of the floor under where the slide was. I also found a small screw that I had picked up off the floor and put in the cupboard. Apparently it came off the cupboard during travel and made its way under the slide. Too bad but I knew it would be susceptible to that kind of thing.