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Old 08-12-2014, 03:25 PM   #11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 244
I would remove the cap as you say and then use the rubber roof adhiesive to glue the roof back down. Then re-assemble with the butyl tape, then put self leveling caulk on the edges of both side of the roof strip and on each screw. I would be more generous than what was previously done as shown in your picture. That may be why you had the leak. For extra measur you can then cover the strip and seam with 4 inch wide eternabond tape. Nothing will get past that stuff.

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Old 08-12-2014, 03:42 PM   #12
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,033
glnel I would be going back to whom you bought the unit from and raise some questions , did they know about the rot and mold and didn't tell you? Maybe they did and thats why they sold it!!!

2014 Forester 3051s
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:19 PM   #13
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 342
hopfuly fixed, thanks all

I was leaving for a trip in a week so I had to get something doneÖ.
I went to a local RV shop and they suggested the product used to stick down the rubber roof but they only sold it in gallon cans for $88 and they would have to order it. He wouldnít say the Dicor self leveling stuff wouldnít work.
So, I went and did it my way. I cleaned the front edge very well removing all the old butyl tape and caching.I Pulled the metal transition piece watching for anything that would have started the bubble. Never did see a defined issue but the transition between the corigated siding and the rubber roof had a fairly big gap. While this area/gap is covered by the butal tape and metal strip it wasnít filled and was an open gap.
The rubber roof was rolled down and under the wooden roof material and I wasnít going to lift the roof. So where the rubber rolled over the edge of the wood I made my slit(yep I cut my rubber roof).
I added 3/8 flex tubing about 2ft to the Dicor tube, extending the length of the tip, and pumped that stuff as far back in as I could.
I had a small hand roller and worked the Dicor all around working hard to push all the air out the slit.
I took a 4ft strip of butyl tape and worked it out to 8ft so about half as thick. I pushed this down into that gap between siding and roof(closing the gap).
Between all the Dicor coming back out the slit and the Butyl tape covering the slit I feel pretty okay that it will not leak(time will tell).
I put a new strip of butyl tape under the transitional metal strip and screwed it pack down. I knelt on the metal strip while screwing it down to really push the butyl tape down and get a good seal. Then I took the rest of the Dicor covered the screw heads and added a bead down the front edge.
I put down some wax paper found a piece of plexi glass and weighted that with some sand bags
The rubber had gotten stretched out when the bubble formed so trying to flatten it back out was a challenge.
After two days I pulled off the weights to take a look and wasnít as happy as I was hoping to be. The rubber roof was still not flat; it was still distorted from being over stretched. But the roof did seem firmly held down and all the edges looked great. What ells could I do(Iím leaving in 3 days)?
300ml later I get up to the mountains and its thunder storming. I drove two hours through the rain and then parked for a full night of rain. What a test and it held, I couldnít find a leak or a bubble. A week later while packing up to move on I climbed up on the roof and it looks better, much of the stretched rubber went flat.
I feel comfortable that it will hold the life of the camper but definitely a section I will pay close attention to while cleaning watching for any issues.
Roof Glue might have been the right product to use but the Delco seams to be okay and its what I had.
Thanks all

2011 Wildwood T26BHXL
2004 Yukon XL Denali
43yrs of camping; one lucky guy
YoungKopernik is offline   Reply With Quote

roo, roof

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