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Old 09-21-2018, 08:59 PM   #21
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I did a major roof repair and put new rubber roof on area repaired, l left approx. 6 inches of old rubber roofing under the gutter cut in new piece of rubber put down Eternabond over seams and reinforced with a second layer lapping 3 inches over first layer of Eternabond and 3 inches on to rubber roof , making 9 inches total of reinforced seam on the out side , the seam the seam is 12 inches.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:02 PM   #22
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:03 PM   #23
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What it looked like before Eternabond
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:07 PM   #24
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I took Togger's advice and ordered a roll of 6 inch Eterna off Amazon.
6 inch wide will be a handful to work with... I think I might have went with 3 inch, and added a second layer lap over higher onto the roof... just take your time and you will figure it out... don't pull off backing strip too far back...
You may want to work with 18 inch to two foot long strips already cut... these can be lapped over end to end easily.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:17 PM   #25
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6 inch wide will be a handful to work with... I think I might have went with 3 inch, and added a second layer lap over higher onto the roof... just take your time and you will figure it out... don't pull off backing strip too far back...
You may want to work with 18 inch to two foot long strips already cut... these can be lapped over end to end easily.
I agree, someone had already recommended 6 inch, not impossible to do but as you say a hand full, l split mine when l did my gutter seams used a pair of scissors and cut it down, rolled out eternabond made my line with my level so l would have a good line to cut. If he can use the 6 inch it might would be better for bonding strength, and do it as you suggest cut 18 inches of Eternabond and lap a couple inches instead of trying to handle a whole roll.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:29 PM   #26
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Yes, I was going to work in two foot sections, max. I am going to do both of the long sides in 6 inch. I also ordered a roll of 4 inch and am thinking about doing the front where the roof meets the front panel and back end with that.

Has anyone taken all old seals/Dicor off and replaced with Eternabond? Do you guys remove your old seals with a heat gun and put new straight on, or just put new Dicor over the old stuff. My dad insists that I should take the old stuff off because that's how he did it.....Which do you think is best?
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:41 PM   #27
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On a different note, and again forgive me, as I am sure the answer is out there somewhere, but would this stuff be good for touching up around the windows, storage compartment door, lights, etc.? I've read so many different things.

Is it best to not put any sealant around the windows? What about adding this stuff around the front corners where the wall meets the front, where the butyl tape seems a bit shy.

Is a quick scrub with an old toothbrush and wipe with acetone a good enough preparation for this stuff? THANKS AGAIN
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:44 PM   #28
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I took my old Dicor off with a plastic putty knife, still be careful put down new self leveling Dicor and let it set a few days and put Eternabond over it. I have every seam on my trailer covered with Eternabond except for my two roll out vents and my sewer vents, but l took my roll out vents off and put two layers of Butyl tape underneath and then put self leveling Dicor let it set a few days then put another layer of self leveling Dicor, no Eternabond on my vents encase l need to replace them, if l touch up any of my Dicor now l just clean with acetone and put a little non sag Dicor on any crack or place that l think needs it. My sewer vents were replaced during roof repair and did then the same as roll out vents, l removed my skylight and closed it up completely, partly the problem for major roof repair.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:47 PM   #29
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In my opinion you can not over do any roof maintenance, l would say 75% of water intrusion comes from the roof area.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:45 AM   #30
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Good, Bad, Ugly

After 2, 6 hours sessions on the ladder and roof, finished last night. Some spots are not that great (ripples) but I think they should be just as water proof??? See pictures. I got better at it as I went, going in 2 1/2 foot sections. Was able to get it fairly well along in to the gutter, so hopefully it will hold there. Finger tips have taken a beating trying to put enough pressure on it in the gutter.

I also went over the front cap with 2 strips of 4 inch, with the top overlapping the bottom, and put a strip on the rear to seal the roof to the edging. I found an old stiff toothbrush and some WD-40 worked well to clean the old Dicor, then a final wipe with acetone.

Do you have to put some Dicor around the bathroom vent, or is the Eternabond directly on the rubber/metal frame of the vent enough? Has anyone had a screw pop through the Eternabond?

I left out the radio, TV, sewer vents, and the kitchen vent as the Dicor was pretty good there, and I had had enough. Has anyone done this project in our neck of the woods, Prairies/northwest Ontario??? I'm wondering how well the Eternabond winters in -40 celsius. The TT will be shedded for the winter, but still exposed to the cold temperatures.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:49 AM   #31
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Looks good to me. I would place a bead of Dicor non-sag or quality polyurethane along the seam where it meets the gutter/trim.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:43 AM   #32
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from the Eternabond website:

Quote:
EternaBond® tapes also exhibit great heat stability: designed to operate indefinitely at service temperatures that fluctuate from -70°F to in excess of 150°F and beyond without a loss of physical strength.
Quote:
EternaBond® tapes are designed to provide long term moisture protection in difficult environments. The unique sealant and film backing of our products has been specially formulated to be resistant to UV rays, thermal expansion and contraction, ozone degradation, impact and abrasion.
Putting any other product next to, on top of, or as an additional water barrier for the Eternabond IMHO is just extra work and expense for no additional benefit.

I have had my install for going on 3 years with ZERO degradation or holding power.
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:55 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
from the Eternabond website:





Putting any other product next to, on top of, or as an additional water barrier for the Eternabond IMHO is just extra work and expense for no additional benefit.

I have had my install for going on 3 years with ZERO degradation or holding power.
I agree,with rsdata
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:57 PM   #34
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After 2, 6 hours sessions on the ladder and roof, finished last night. Some spots are not that great (ripples) but I think they should be just as water proof??? See pictures. I got better at it as I went, going in 2 1/2 foot sections. Was able to get it fairly well along in to the gutter, so hopefully it will hold there. Finger tips have taken a beating trying to put enough pressure on it in the gutter.

I also went over the front cap with 2 strips of 4 inch, with the top overlapping the bottom, and put a strip on the rear to seal the roof to the edging. I found an old stiff toothbrush and some WD-40 worked well to clean the old Dicor, then a final wipe with acetone.

Do you have to put some Dicor around the bathroom vent, or is the Eternabond directly on the rubber/metal frame of the vent enough? Has anyone had a screw pop through the Eternabond?

I left out the radio, TV, sewer vents, and the kitchen vent as the Dicor was pretty good there, and I had had enough. Has anyone done this project in our neck of the woods, Prairies/northwest Ontario??? I'm wondering how well the Eternabond winters in -40 celsius. The TT will be shedded for the winter, but still exposed to the cold temperatures.
Good job, I would clean up sewer vent with acetone , overlay with Dicor, job complete.
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:04 PM   #35
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My reason for using Dicor around sewer vent, is they are replaced more often because the deteriorate in the weather and sun and have to be replaced, just a little easier to replace if necessary, but it's your call.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:25 PM   #36
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Nice work! I admire your tenacity in dealing with this problem. For peace of mind, you could lay a heavy bead of self leveling dicor over the eternabond tape / rubber roof joint in the short section where you got some wrinkles, especially if that is the section where the tear was. The only possible way water could ever get in would be at that joint and through a wrinkle gap. I doubt that that would ever happen though.

Congratulations, you just saved your camper!
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:41 PM   #37
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You have a problem in a very bad place I would say. Looks to me like you scraped the roof line there on a tree branch or something. Not an expert in this area so maybe others will chime in, but I would say Dicor is not an option. Eternabond may work but I would want to get the edge of the eternabond under the metal trip. In most RV's that metal trim is very long. You would have to first remove the plastic trim and then loosen the screws holding the trim enough to get an edge of the Eternabond under the trim. But it is worth a shot I would say or you may be looking at a total roof replacement.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:01 AM   #38
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Roof issues

We have a 2012 Forest River Surveyor 310. We bought it in 2016 and less than a year later we had a leak. Found out the extended warranty "WE BOUGHT" didn't cover it. Turned out, 1 vent and ceiling panels later and $800.00 to have it fixed. They recommended "Dicor" for any sealing and patching! I went up and sealed the remaining vents so I'm not spending another $800.00 anytime soon! Seems roof maintenance is YOUR PROBLEM!
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:31 AM   #39
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They recommended "Dicor" for any sealing and patching! I went up and sealed the remaining vents so I'm not spending another $800.00 anytime soon! Seems roof maintenance is YOUR PROBLEM!
YUP... I believe the sticker on the side of most trailers I have seen says that you HAVE to MAINTAIN ROOF every 90 days for the warranty to remain in effect... not sure you can schedule that kind of work with dealers these days...

also they recommend DICOR because ETERNABOND lasts for 10 years or more where Dicor needs work every few years... and how wants to do work that lasts for 10 years or more???
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Old 10-06-2018, 12:26 PM   #40
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New roof

Last year got into campground late at night. While backing i hit a cutoff tree limb and put a 30’ rip in my roof about 6” from the edge. I never felt nothing and didn’t see it till next day. I called a temp repair guy and he taped it and dicored it as we were there for the winter. He told me that it was not to be left that way indefinitly. I called insurance company. They came out took photo’s. They even scheduled me into my dealer back home in spring. I got the roof replaced for under $6,000.00. Traded the TT off for my fiver.easy peasy.
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